May Lindstrom The Blue Cocoon Review

Certified Organic

Camellia Oleifera leaf extract is a plant-derived fatty acid tea oil (with origins from China) often functioning as a skin-conditioning, emollient and moisturizing agent in cosmetics.  This ingredient has been identified as safe.

In fact, a study published in 2017, characterized the fatty acid profile of camellia oleifera seed oil – looking at cytotoxicity, melanogenesis (the process of melanin production), and antioxidant activity.  The results indicated that camellia oleifera seed oil exhibited the inhibitory activity on melanogenesis and antioxidant activity if up to 3%. In addition, some recent studies have indicated that the extracts of the fruit shell of camellia oleifera have radical-scavenging abilities.

Bottom line:   Plant-derived fatty acid tea oil used as a skin-conditioning agent and emollient – with studies observing the inhibition of melanogenesis.  Camellia oleifera may have antioxidant and antiradical capabilities.

Fair Trade, Raw, & Unrefined

Note:  According to May Lindstrom’s ingredient list, there is a spelling error with Butyrospermun and I have provided the correct spelling in the above header.  Yikes!

Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter is derived from the shea tree fruit and is commonly found in topical formulations as an emollient for atopic dermatitis, and its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.  In general, plant-derived fatty acid oils are widely used in cosmetics – mainly for its skin conditioning, emollient and moisturizing properties.

There have been varying studies with respect to shea butter’s physicochemical composition, its medicinal purposes, and its topical use:

• In a 2015 study, shea butter was evaluated for its physicochemical composition: palmitic (16.42 and 26.36 %), stearic (32.39 and 36.36 %), oleic (38.12 and 29.09 %), linoleic (9.72 and 5.92 %) and arachidic (1.84 and 1.59 %) acids.
• In another 2015 study, atopic dermatitis treated with a cream containing shea butter extract had the same efficacy as a ceramide-containing product.
• In a 2016 study, a shea butter-containing moisturizer was shown to significantly improve symptoms of mild-to-moderate body eczema in adults after 2 weeks.

Bottom line: Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter have high stearic acid and oleic acid composition – allowing them to be a key emollient with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

Fair Trade, Raw, & Unrefined

Cacao, one of the top raw material sources for a multibillion-dollar food industry.  Whether you are a chocoholic or not – cacao and its derivatives have long been used in various foods.  

The pulp of the fruit of the Theobroma cacao tree is the source of cocoa butter (or cupuacu butter)– a natural lipid rich in saturated fatty acids that are stored in the form of triacylglycerides.  In fact, scientists have determined with its abundant polyphenol and flavonol composition – cacao seed butter may influence healing properties –improving dermal blood flow, increasing photoprotection and ultimately contributing to the maintenance of skin health!

In fact, we are just scratching the surface of its neuroprotective benefits as well as its antioxidant properties – which all began from the Aztec and Mayan civilizations!  Nowadays, it is considered a modern plant-based alternative to lanolin, which can often be a sensitizer and allergen.

A water absorption study was performed with each of the following: cupuacu, shea butter, and lanolin (stirring until separation was observed). The study concluded that cupuacu could support 440% of its weight in water, which means that 1 kg of cupuacu butter could absorb 4.4 kg of water; therefore, allowing it to function much more effectively as a skin hydrator and plumper.

In 2003, the chemical composition of cupuacu butter was evaluated and found to be rich in:

• Phytosterols (or plant sterols) which combat free radicals; to benefit dry, damaged skin and
• Polyphenols to combat free radical damage
• Fatty acids to protect and moisturize the skin
  • 18.8 % Oleic acid (Omega-9)
  • 55.2% Palmitic acid
  • 3.1% Linoleic acid (Omega-6)
  • 18.0% Linolenic acid (Omega-3)

Bottom line:  Provides photo-protective, helps to improve dermal blood flow, maintain overall skin health, skin hydrator and plumper.

Fair Trade, Raw, & Unrefined

Sclerocarya birrea seed oil or to put it very simply, marula oil, its more widely known name.  The oil itself has been extracted for a variety of cosmetic purposes including skin moisturizing, maintenance of healthy skin, processing into soap, and hair care.  In fact, a clinical study evaluated varying properties of marula oil – looking at irritancy potential, occlusivity properties, moisturizing and hydrating effects.  Marula oil rich in fatty acids exhibits moisturizing, hydrating and occlusive properties. As the oil is non-irritating and provides a moisturizing effect with moderate prevention of transepidermal water loss, average moisture retention properties, and noteworthy occlusive effects; its inclusion in cosmetic products based on its traditional use may be justified depending on the application.

In fact, the therapeutic benefits of marula oil have been so widely researched that there is actually a patented formulation which can be applied topically in the vicinity of a wound or scar for treatment and prevention of formation of scar tissue.  Wow!

Bottom line:   Marula oil exhibits moisturizing, hydrating, and wound healing properties mediated by its fatty acid composition.

Certified Organic

Again, another plant-derived fatty acid oil – but this particular tree claims its origins from Africa.  As we mentioned earlier, plant-derived fatty acid oils are widely used in cosmetics – mainly for its skin conditioning, emollient and moisturizing properties.

Interesting enough, I have slowly seen baobab-composed products in the last few years. 

And I always wondered, “what is baobab? And what a strange name!”

It turns out, baobab is recognized for its high nutrient and polyphenol content. in fact, baobab oil has been shown to be a  good source of macro and micro nutrients with potassium (K) being the most predominant element – followed by magnesium (Mg), calcium (Ca) and phosphorus (P).

In fact, a 2013 study evaluated baobab fruit extract to confirm its use in reducing starch digestion in vitro.  This response would illuminate the potential for reducing glycemic response, increasing satiety,  and diet-induced thermogenesis in humans.

A 2017 study established the seed fatty acid composition of each Adansonia species using gas chromatography (GC). And the oils of all baobab species contain three major fatty acids: palmitic, oleic and linoleic acids.

And finally, adansonia digitata seed oil has a fatty acid composition of the following according to the CIR panel:

• Oleic acid (30-40%), an omega-9 fatty acid
• Linoleic acid (24-34%), an omega-6 fatty acid
• Linolenic acid (1-3%), an omega-3 fatty acid
• Palmitic acid (18-30%)
• Stearic acid (2-8%)

Bottom line:  Although somewhat of an unknown, baobab is slowing making its presence in all facets of the industry.  Due to its macro/micro-elements and its physicochemical properties – it functions mainly for its skin-conditioning, emollient and moisturizing properties.

Certified Organic

Ah, we meet yet again, blue tansy oil – or also known as Moroccan Chamomile.

We’ve seen this guy crop up more times than we can count in the last few years.  And yet, when you do a good amount of research on this aquamarine colored oil – you will realize how EXPENSIVE a small amount of this stuff can be! Maybe there’s a reason for its mystery as an ingredient.

Nevertheless, blue tansy is a plant generally found in the northwestern part of Morocco. A paper published in 1999, examined the chemical composition of the blue tansy oil. It determined that it was composed of the following: chamazulene (an azulene derivative which is what essentially gives it that blue-marine color), which was a major component of the oil at 28%, b-pinene (3.1%) and myrcene (4.4%).

Current or ongoing studies regarding blue tansy were virtually hard to find. The only relevant information concerning the ingredient itself was a 2010 study examining the antimicrobial activity of Moroccan (blue tansy) and various other oils. Results indicate that it does provide antimicrobial capacity.

Bottom line: No real data supporting skincare benefits. However, it has been shown to provide antimicrobial properties.

Wild Harvested

Commiphora myrrha (c. myrrha) has many medicinal powers and has been used to treat various diseases, such as fever, ache, amenorrhea, tumors, stomach complaints, chest ailments, and skin infections in ancient India, China, and Greece. Components of c. myrrha have also been shown to exhibit diverse biological activities (such as cytotoxic, anesthetic, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial effects).

Bottom line: Myrrh oil provides antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, and anti-microbial capabilities.

Certified Organic

Lavandula Angustifolia (also known as English lavender) oil is traditionally used as an antiseptic and medicinal agent, and now predominantly used as a relaxant – providing as a form of sedative and neurological treatment through aromatherapy.

With the beauty and health industry morphing — more and more products are being formulated with essential oils.   You quite literally can’t walk by a beauty counter or drug store without seeing a product marketed with the promise of lavender oil’s therapeutic benefits – such as its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties and its use in fighting several skin diseases. Lavender oil is rich in antioxidants (e.g. terpenoids, lactones and phenolic compounds) and is composed of the following main molecules: linalool (34-47%), linalyl acetate (17-34%), camphor (4-9%) and eucalyptol (3-7%) as determined from a 2016 study.

For a while, most of the research surrounding the benefits of lavender oil applied topically wasn’t the most compelling. However, a 2016 study recently evaluated lavender oil and its wound-healing effect. The study concluded that topical application of lavender oil promoted collagen synthesis and up-regulation of TGF-β (needed for wound contraction).

This accelerated formation of tissue and collagen could be a game-changer! The possibilities could be endless!

Bottom line: Lavender oil provides a natural aromatic fragrance that calms the mind and body. But the oil is composed of molecular components that prove quite beneficial as an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent; with new research unraveling possibilities for collagen synthesis!

Wild Harvested

Frankincense is a resin from the Boswellia tree.   Traditionally speaking, frankincense oil was used for its anti-inflammatory property.  In fact, the main component of frankincense is oil (60%) – which contains monoterpenes (13%), diterpenes (40%), ethyl acetate (21.4%), octyl acetate (13.4%), and methylanisole (7.6%).

Interesting enough, the chemical structure of Boswellia extracts (boswellic acids) closely resembles that of steroids.  What?! Their actions, however, are different from painkillers or nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) and are related to the component of the immune system.

A  2017 study evaluated the biological activities of frankincense oil in pre-inflamed human dermal fibroblasts by analyzing the levels of 17 important protein biomarkers pertinent to inflammation and tissue remodeling.  The study concluded that frankincense oil possessed the potential to modulate the biological processes of inflammation and tissue remodeling in human skin.

Wow!

Use of frankincense and myrrh is not a novel one.  Frankincense and myrrh are often used together clinically for relieving pain and activating blood circulation – such as treatment of inflammatory diseases. In fact, frankincense and myrrh treatment of skin sores, wounds, teeth, and urinary tract diseases in traditional medicine were due to its synergistic antimicrobial capabilities.

Bottom line: Frankincense oil provides antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, and anti-microbial capabilities.

Certified Organic

Where would aromatherapy be without the smell of the rose? For centuries, humans have studied every aspect of this plentiful flower. The rose and its petals are often a symbol of love.

Geranium rose, which belongs to the Geraniaceae family, has been widely used for its antibacterial, anti-inflammatory, antifungal, and antioxidant properties – and is composed of various chemical constituents such as linalool (4.52%), citronellol (29.13%)l, and geraniol (12.62%).

Interesting enough, the geranium rose is actually a plant-based insect repellent.  

What?!  Did you guys know that?  

In fact, a 2004 study, evaluated mosquito repellents containing traditional DEET (N,N-Diethyl-meta-toluamide) and natural alternatives containing varying essential oils.  The study concluded that Bite Blocker, a commercial repellent (containing glycerin, lecithin, vanillin, oils of coconut, geranium, and 2% soybean oil)  could achieve similar repellency to DEET containing repellants.

In addition, some of the medicinal effects that stem (pun intended) from the geranium rose have been found to decrease anxiety.  A 2015 study evaluated the use of geranium essential oil as a non-invasive procedure that could decrease childbirth anxiety.  The study determined that the aroma geranium essential oils could effectively reduce anxiety during labor and could be recommended as a non-invasive anti-anxiety aid during childbirth.

Amazing!

Bottom line: Geranium rose oil provides antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and anti-microbial capabilities.  It is also a plant-based insect repellent and has been shown to decrease anxiety levels.

Certified Organic

We all know what vanilla is, but did you know that it gets its origins from the orchid family?  At some point in our lives, we’ve associated the scent of vanilla with baked goods, ice cream (Häagen-Dazs for me!), candles, and perfumes.  I must admit, there have been times that I’ve really detested the smell of vanilla. No actual reason. Just could not stand the smell. Then there have been times that the smell of vanilla brings be an absolute joy!  As a result, vanilla is obviously used as a flavoring and fragrance agent.

But it does offer medicinal benefits:

• A 1998 study explored the protective effect of vanillin (a naturally occurring compound in vanilla beans) on radiation-induced chromosomal damage in cells.  The study concluded that vanillin has the ability to reduce chromosomal damage caused by X-ray and UV light.
• A 2007 study evaluated the use of vanilla in food preservation.  The study pointed to the potential use of vanilla extract components as antioxidants for food preservation and in health supplements as nutraceuticals.

One interesting side note is that vanilla is ranked second to saffron in terms of cost due to harvesting practices.  Therefore, the high demand for vanilla extract is often supplied using synthetic vanillin (chemically produced from guaiacol and lignin). 

As a result, of the high costs to extract plant-derived vanilla, modern technology by way of biotechnology has seemed to step in and offered alternatives, such as microbial production from phenolic stilbenes, lignin, eugenol, and ferulic acid.

Bottom line:  Overall, vanilla oil (albeit costly to harvest) functions as a flavoring and fragrance agent with protective, antioxidant, and antimicrobial capabilities.

Certified Organic

Schisandra sphenanthera (Nan-wuweizi) hails its origins from China.  A virtual unknown in Western cultures, Schisandra sphenanthera has been used medicinally for thousands of years in China.  The plant, itself, contains a variety of pharmacologically active lignans.  Unfortunately, not much (if at all) research was found with respect to the cosmetic benefits of schisandra sphenanthera.  In fact, most of the information I was able to find was its therapeutic use in functional Chinese medical practices.

In addition, I found one trademarked schisandra sphenanthera vendor (Flavex) which stated that the ingredient provided the following:

• “Anti-proliferative effect, is a Cox-2 inhibitor, has anti-oxidative, anti-inflammatory and skin-calming properties in cosmetics.  The product has relaxing, toning and adaptogenic properties, reduces the influence of stress factors, stabilizes cell membranes, prevents oxidative cell damage and has an anti-inflammatory effect.”

Bottom line:   Fruit extract that claims therapeutic benefits from historical medicinal use in China.  I’m not entirely too sure that the vendor’s information can be corroborated, so I’ll just leave it at that.

Certified Organic

Traditionally speaking, the flowers of helichrysum italicum (an aromatic shrub) were used for the treatment of intestinal complaints; and as such as an herbal tea for curing digestive, stomachic and intestinal diseases. In addition, helichrysum italicum has been shown to aid in wound healing, skin conditions (scars), and aromatherapy applications.  

The smell apparently is reminiscent of curry smell.  Which is quite an interesting choice with respect to ingredients for this particular balm?

Helichrysum italicum has been characterized by an elevated percentage of monoterpenes (such as neryl acetate, neryl propanoate and α-pinene), linalool, limonene, and geraniol.  

Helichrysum italicum have been shown to have anti-inflammatory,  antioxidant, and antimicrobial activities in varying studies.

Bottom line:   Helichrysum italicum oil functions as an aromatherapeutic agent with anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial properties.  It has also been known to aid in wound healing.

I’m not entirely sure whether the folks at May Lindstrom meant to use this ingredient as one of the following (both originating from Madagascar):

• Ravensara Aromatica (sometimes ravensare) oil, may often mean “fragrant leaf”.  It is also commonly known as havozo or hazomanitra, meaning ‘aromatic tree’ in the Malagasy language.  
• Ravintsara oil, derived from Cinnamomum camphora leaves, Ho Leaf Oil.

As you can see, it’s such a slight difference and it’s so confusing that famed essential oil guru, Robert Tisserand wrote a milk rant on the subject.  The confusion was so daunting that a 2001 article tried to unravel the differences between ravensara and ravintsara.  

If we assume this is truly ravensara aromatica oil, then we know that the primary components of ravensara aromatica oil include the following:  

• Chemotype 1 (> 90% methyl chavicol)
• Chemotype 2 (72–80% methyl eugenol)
• Chemotype 3 (25–28% a-terpinene and limonene: 15–22%)
• Chemotype 4 (25–34% sabinene).

In the end, outside of the confusion, ravensara aromatica oil functions for the use of aromatherapy and has anti-stress capabilities.

Bottom line:   Ravensara Aromatica oil functions for aromatherapeutic purposes and has anti-stress capabilities.

Linalool is a monoterpene alcohol which can be found in many essential oils, such as that of spearmint, rose, cypress, lemon, and cinnamon.  It often evokes a fragrance to that of bergamot oil and lavender – and often functions as a flavoring and fragrance agent due to its pleasing scent – and therefore, often found in cleaning and laundry products.

One thing to note is that a 2017 study performed patch tests evaluations of 26 fragrance allergens on patients suffering from dermatitis. The study concluded that 940 out of 6004 patients were shown to be patch positive for linalool.

Bottom line:   Linalool is found in essential oils and provides antiseptic, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.  It also functions as a flavoring and fragrance agent and found in cosmetics and perfumes.

Citronellol, a type of terpene, is often used as a fragrance compound in cosmetic products.  It has also been found to have potential antimicrobial properties.  High levels of citronellol are often found in geranium rose – roughly 28%.  

Both citronellol AND geraniol are listed as alleged fragrance allergens.  However, a 2010 study evaluated the penetration abilities of geraniol and citronellol when used in a vehicle in consumer products.  The study found (in vitro) that geraniol and citronellol have low potentials for skin penetration, which has implications for their ability to induce allergenicity and for more predictive toxicologic profiling of these materials.

Bottom line:   Citronellol is found in essential oils and provides antimicrobial capabilities.  It also functions as a fragrance agent and found in cosmetics. It may have the potential to be a fragrance allergen!

Geraniol is a monoterpenoid alcohol with antiseptic, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.  It is often naturally occurring in rose oil and can also be found in other essential oils like lemon, geranium, vanilla, bergamot and lavender oil in lower concentrations.  

And guess what? May Lindstrom’s The Blue Cocoon just happens to have some of those essential oils!

Geraniol often functions as a flavoring and fragrance agent due to its pleasing scent – and therefore, often found in perfumes, cosmetics, and candles.  Something to note – as in most fragrance compounds (such as citronellol), geraniol may have the potential to elicit contact allergies.

Bottom line:   Geraniol is found in essential oils and provides antiseptic, antibacterial and anti-inflammatory properties.  It also functions as a flavoring and fragrance agent and found in cosmetics and perfumes. It may have the potential to be a fragrance allergen!

Limonene is a monoterpene with and a major component of essential oils from citrus fruits.  Limonene often functions as a flavoring and fragrance agent due to its lemon scent – and therefore, often found in perfumes, cosmetics, and candles.  It is often found in two forms, d-limonene (found in oranges) and l-limonene (found in lemons).

D-limonene and its metabolite were reported, in a 2014 study, to have tissue-repair properties.  The study noticed that topically applied d-limonene to patients with dermatitis and skin lesions demonstrated significant anti-inflammatory effects and contributed to healing effects on the epidermal barrier.

Although limonene has been designated as a chemical with low toxicity based upon lethal dose, skin irritation or sensitizing potential was reported following widespread use of this agent in various consumer products.

Bottom line:   Limonene is found in essential oils and provides anti-inflammatory and possible tissue-repair properties.  It functions as a flavoring and fragrance agent. And although there may be a potential for limonene to be a sensitizing allergen, some studies have pointed to its benefits in tissue-repair.