THE PRODUCT
BRIOGEO: SCALP REVIVAL CHARCOAL + COCONUT OIL MICRO-EXFOLIATING SHAMPOO
They say one’s hair can unravel the mysteries of a person. Think about it. When you meet someone, what do you notice about them? Their, face, eyes, and hair! We notice hair texture, style, color, and whether they lack hair at all. How you manage your hair and the way it looks, really speaks to how you might be feeling. It’s very expressive these days. A form of body art, if you will. For centuries, however, we simply performed the bare minimum: we washed it. And really up until the last decade, the beauty industry has not seen much change in hair care. In fact, it has been downright dull (yes, that pun was intended). But in the last few years, there has been a shift in the industry. A shift to treat haircare just like skincare! A few brands have emerged that have changed the hair care landscape. One such brand and product has been Briogeo Scalp Revival: charcoal + coconut oil micro-exfoliating shampoo.
But before we delve into the actual product and its ingredients, let’s take a look at the brand itself and its founder, Nancy Twine. Unlike most female-founded beauty companies, Twine did not correlate her business story to a pedigree of education or with industry experience, but rather a desire to bring her grandmother’s sacred beauty recipes to natural beauty seekers.
- Ethically sourced
- Cruelty-free
- 90-100% naturally derived
- Packaged in recycled and recyclable bottles
- Sulfates
- Silicones
- Parabens
- Phthalates
- Synthetic dyes
Enter, Briogeo.
One thing to note is that shampoos fall under a very distinct category of “Hair Cosmetics”. That is my personal opinion, of course. And in this realm of hair cosmetics, not much has been done.
Oh sure – there are plenty of shampoos, conditioners, and styling products out there; but what do we really know about hair maintenance? Knowledge and the research behind hair cosmetics are still very very young.
If we quickly delve into the science behind hair maintenance and growth, we must understand the basic hair follicle cycle and facts.
Hair follicles undergo cyclic phases of growth (anagen), regression (catagen), resting (telogen), and regeneration.

- The human scalp contains over 100,000 hairs.
- Most hairs (85% to 95%) are commonly found in the anagen phase with hair growth at approximately 1 cm (~0.40 inches) per month.
- On average, people lose about 100 hairs per day – this can double when we factor shampooing.
The answer to that is no which is based on what we know of the hair follicle cycle. Whether the hair sheds seasonally, that may be true. In fact, there have been studies evaluating seasonal changes in human hair loss/growth in both men and women. For instance, a 1991 study, observed peak growth (over ~90%) in March (Spring) and hair shedding in August (Summer)/September (Fall) for men. And in a 2011 study, peak growth was observed in July (Summer) and mild growth in April (Spring) for women.
In the end, actual hair loss or shedding may be better correlated with genetics, nutrition, and hair treatment.
THE INGREDIENTS
THE CLAIMS
Ok, the claims as detailed on the Briogeo Scalp Revival: charcoal + coconut oil micro-exfoliating shampoo website:
“What It Does: Detoxifies, exfoliates, soothes, and balances the scalp for optimal scalp health.
What It Is: This unique shampoo infuses Binchotan charcoal to draw impurities from the scalp and hair follicle to provide the foundation for optimal scalp health. Vegetable-derived micro-exfoliators remove dead skin cells and product build-up from the scalp to support a clean, balanced, and healthy scalp. A cooling blend of peppermint and spearmint oils reduces scalp itchiness and tea tree oil has anti-septic and healing properties that reduce scalp irritation and inflammation. Coconut Oil provides superior moisturization to the scalp to combat and prevent dryness and flakiness. Super-vitamin, panthenol, provides essential nutrients to strengthen the hair roots and shaft.
Clinical Results: Clinically proven to hydrate the scalp and reduce flakiness and irritation.
- 92% of participants indicated that the shampoo was effective in hydrating and moisturizing their scalp.
- 100% of participants said the shampoo was effective at reducing flakiness and irritation.
98% Naturally Derived.
Binchotan Charcoal: Helps detoxify the hair and scalp by absorbing impurities and buildup.
Coconut Oil: Penetrates the hair shaft to seal in moisture, protecting against breakage and excess heat.
Peppermint Oil: Soothes itchiness and supports a healthy scalp pH.
Tea Tree Oil: Reduces flakiness promoting a clean and invigorated scalp.
No: Harsh Sulfates, Silicones, Phthalates, Parabens, DEA, Artificial Dyes”
Ok, let’s parse this baby to its bare bones based on its ingredients:
Substantiated | Claims | What's the Problem? |
---|---|---|
👍🏻 | Detoxifies, exfoliates, soothes, and balances the scalp for optimal scalp health. | None |
🚫 | Binchotan Charcoal: To draw impurities from the scalp and hair follicle to provide the foundation for optimal scalp health. | No product-specific data to substantiate claim |
🚫 | Binchotan Charcoal: Helps detoxify the hair and scalp by absorbing impurities and buildup. | No product-specific data to substantiate claim |
👍🏻 | Vegetable-derived micro-exfoliators remove dead skin cells and product build-up from the scalp to support a clean, balanced, and healthy scalp. | None |
👍🏻 | Peppermint and Spearmint Oil: A cooling blend of peppermint and spearmint oils reduces scalp itchiness and tea tree oil has antiseptic and healing properties that reduce scalp irritation and inflammation. | None |
🚫 | Peppermint and Spearmint Oil: Peppermint and Spearmint Oil: Soothes itchiness and supports a healthy scalp pH. | No product-specific data to substantiate claim |
👍🏻 | Coconut Oil: Provides superior moisturization to the scalp to combat and prevent dryness and flakiness. | None |
👍🏻 | Coconut Oil: Penetrates the hair shaft to seal in moisture, protecting against breakage and excess heat. | None |
👍🏻 | Super-vitamin, panthenol, provides essential nutrients to strengthen the hair roots and shaft. | None |
🚫 | 98% Naturally Derived | Product ingredient list = ~82% naturally derived |
🚫 | Clinical Results: 92% of participants indicated that the shampoo was effective in hydrating and moisturizing their scalp | No product-specific data to substantiate claim |
🚫 | Clinical Results: 100% of participants said the shampoo was effective at reducing flakiness and irritation | No product-specific data to substantiate claim |
👍🏻 | Tea Tree Oil: Reduces flakiness promoting a clean and invigorated scalp. | None |
👍🏻 | No: Harsh Sulfates, Silicones, Phthalates, Parabens, DEA, Artificial Dyes | None |
SKIN TYPE & USE
According to Briogeo’s website, this shampoo is specifically formulated per the following:
For those with a dry, irritated, and flaky scalp and/or product buildup.
Color treated, keratin treated, chemically-treated, and relaxed hair.
Apply to wet hair and vigorously massage into the scalp and through to the ends. Rinse and repeat, as necessary. Apply your favorite Briogeo conditioner or treatment post-shampoo.
Precautions: Avoid contact with eyes. For external use only.
Pretty self-explanatory and doesn’t need more clarification.
THE GOOD & THE BAD
This is definitely a treatment focused product – to clear up problematic hair and scalp.
If we look at the first ingredient listed (due to abundance) as being water, there can be issues of bacterial contamination or growth. Generally speaking, some form of a chelating agent such as citric acid could be added to counter any growth. In this particular product; the use of peppermint, tea tree, spearmint provides as natural antimicrobial agents.
Overall, Briogeo promotes five main ingredients: binchotan charcoal, coconut oil, peppermint oil, tea tree oil, and a vegetable-derived micro-exfoliator (microcrystalline cellulose). Four of which check out as it relates to its functional purpose relative to claims. Then there is binchotan charcoal. There was no scientific correlative research available to substantiate their claims that binchotan charcoal “helps detoxify the hair and scalp by absorbing impurities and buildup”.
Then there were a few rough ingredients in this list that I found a little concerning – such as:
- Polyquaternium-7
- Lithium Magnesium Sodium Silicate
- Xylitylglucosid
- Anhydroxylitol
- Xylitol
- Pentaerythrityl Tetra-Di-T-Butyl Hydroxyhydrocinnamate
The plethora of multiple surfactants have been identified:
- Sodium Lauroyl Methyl Isethionate
- Cocamidopropyl Betaine
- Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate
- Sodium Methyl Ally Taurate
Of course, again we see a host of preservatives used:
- Dehydroacetic Acid
- Benzyl Alcohol
We also can’t forget what we learned about ginger and its main compound, 6-gingerol – which might actually suppress hair growth!
And finally, fragrance (parfum) is included at the VERY END of the ingredient list. Again, this is more personal preference than an issue.
THE UGLY (PRICE)
Briogeo Scalp Revival: charcoal + coconut oil micro-exfoliating shampoo ($42)
DO I NEED THIS?
No one can deny that the Briogeo Scalp Revival: charcoal + coconut oil micro-exfoliating shampoo is packed with a veritable melange of emollient and cleansing ingredients.
Overall, this product is not cheap for a shampoo. But it is quite a bit of product, quantity-wise. So if you are looking to dabble in the charcoal shampoo craze, the Briogeo Scalp Revival charcoal + coconut oil micro-exfoliating shampoo would seem to be the one to start. Albeit, I’m still on the fence to any scientific correlation between charcoal and hair.
Fact: When doing research on other charcoal shampoos, it was a challenge to find similar alternatives (see Dupes) to the Briogeo Scalp Revival: charcoal + coconut oil micro-exfoliating shampoo. In fact, none of the dupes had similar formulations but ALL had charcoal powder.
Either way, the choice is yours.
DUPES
HASK Charcoal Clarifying Shampoo
SOAPBOX Activated Charcoal Detoxify & Refresh Shampoo
Not Your Mother’s Activated Bamboo Charcoal & Purple Moonstone Restore & Reclaim Shampoo
drybar On The Rocks Clarifying Charcoal Shampoo
Living proof. Perfect hair Day™ Triple Detox Shampoo
VIRTUE refresh purifying shampoo
ARE THE CLAIMS BACKED BY SCIENCE?
Overall, the ingredients lined up for most of their claims. However, there were a few questionable components added to this shampoo that begs the question: Why, Briogeo?!
Also, if the ethos of this company was to create products with ingredients that are 98% naturally-derived, I could not determine where the remaining 16% might be. From my calculation, the Briogeo Scalp Revival: charcoal + coconut oil micro-exfoliating shampoo is roughly 82% naturally-derived.
But I do have to say, I do love the tingling after effects of this shampoo. Very refreshing!
And as usual, we always suggest our readers build their vocabulary on ingredients and learn the do’s and don’ts of cosmetic formulation.
Until my next review!