goop by Juice Beauty Luminous Melting Cleanser Review

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Almond oil demonstrates properties of not only healthy fats for consumption – but its list of beneficial properties include as an anti-inflammatory and immune boosting agent?

This must stem from sweet almond oil containing the various components of fatty acids – such as linoleic acid (8-28%), oleic acid (64-82%) and palmitic acid (6-8%). In addition, it’s rich in α-tocopherol (a form of vitamin E), which provides protection in photoaging. In fact, according to a 2007 study, the role of almond oil proved to reduce the degradative changes in the skin from UV damage and decelerate the photoaging process.

Bottom line: Rich in Vitamin E and beneficial in thwarting free radicals and accelerated photoaging.

So we’ve spoken about squalane/squalene oil derived from olives.  But we haven’t really discussed olive oil as a whole.

More specifically, extra virgin olive oil has an important value as it relates to antioxidant power and anti-inflammatory capabilities – with it containing 98% to 99% triglycerides and 1% to 2% minor components (alpha-tocopherol, phenol compounds, carotenoids, squalene, phytosterols, and chlorophyll).

In fact, a 2009 study determined that the preferred omega-6 and omega-3 ratio for optimal skin protection should be 10:1.  And this recommended ratio may be found in olive oil compared to other vegetable oils.

Bottom line:   All signs point to olive oil aiding in skin protection – with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory capabilities.  

One thing to note:  As discussed later in this review, the use of olive oil coupled with sunflower oil may induce sensitivities to folks who suffer from atopic dermatitis.  So please be aware.

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In the last 10 years, coconut oil has quickly become the “it” ingredient/component and go-to item for anyone in the know regarding the search for healthy alternatives.  Whether it’s for cooking and eating, moisturizing, aromatic properties; coconut oil is everywhere! In fact, I often use coconut milk as a dairy-free alternative to almond milk for coffees, smoothies, and cooking in general.  The list can literally go on with this natural ingredient. And from the looks of things – we are just getting started!

When it comes to cosmetics and the beauty industry, coconut oil is widely used for its moisturizing and emollient capabilities.  

But it doesn’t end there.  A review published in 2011, determined that coconut oil actually blocks out about 20% of UV rays compared to 25-30% with octyl methoxycinnamate (a typical chemical often used in sunscreens).  So why are we not harnessing this natural form of UV ray blocker?

Bottom line:   The degree of benefits of using coconut oil have only just begun as we continually unearth and chip away at all its wonderful potential uses.

Polyglyceryl-10 laurate functions as a skin-conditioning agent, surfactant, and emulsifying agent in cosmetic products.

It’s important to note that a study determined that polyglyceryl-10 laurate may be slightly irritating to the eyes as assessed by the CIR panel.

Bottom line:   Not much information could be found based on its effects relative to any benefits to the skin.  However, polyglyceryl-10 laurate functions as a skin-conditioning agent, surfactant, and possible emulsifier in cosmetic products.

According to a comprehensive analysis of seed oils performed in 1992, Sunflower oil contains high levels of vitamins A, D, and K – with crude sunflower oil having the highest content of vitamin E in the form of α-tocopherol amongst oils.

In a randomized study in 2013, sunflower seed oil preserved stratum corneum integrity (that’s skin talk) – and improved hydration in volunteers who applied it topically after 4 weeks. Oddly enough, the study also found that in contrast; topical treatment of sunflower oil WITH olive oil significantly damaged the skin barrier, and therefore had the potential to promote the development of and exacerbate existing atopic dermatitis.  

Yikes!  

This cleansing balm HAPPENS to have olive oil and sunflower wax in the ingredient list!

Not exactly both oils but its certainly something to know.

Bottom line: High vitamin E content for improved hydration.  Based on the 2013 study, folks who are sensitive to atopic dermatitis need to be aware that this product may exacerbate the condition.

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Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter is derived from the shea tree fruit and is commonly found in topical formulations as an emollient for atopic dermatitis, and its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties.  In general, plant-derived fatty acid oils are widely used in cosmetics – mainly for its skin conditioning, emollient and moisturizing properties.

There have been varying studies with respect to shea butter’s physicochemical composition, its medicinal purposes, and its topical use:

• In a 2015 study, shea butter was evaluated for its physicochemical composition: palmitic (16.42 and 26.36 %), stearic (32.39 and 36.36 %), oleic (38.12 and 29.09 %), linoleic (9.72 and 5.92 %) and arachidic (1.84 and 1.59 %) acids.
• In another 2015 study, atopic dermatitis treated with a cream containing shea butter extract had the same efficacy as a ceramide-containing product.
• In a 2016 study, a shea butter-containing moisturizer was shown to significantly improve symptoms of mild-to-moderate body eczema in adults after 2 weeks.

Bottom line: Butyrospermum parkii (shea) butter have high stearic acid and oleic acid composition – allowing them to be key emollients with antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

Bergamot oil is often used in manufacturing for its aroma and therefore, formulated for its natural fragrance.   The oil itself consists of a volatile (93–96% of total) and a non-volatile (4–7% of total) fraction.  The volatile fraction includes monoterpene limonene (25–53%), linalool (2–20%), linalyl acetate (15–40%), γ-terpinene, and β-pinene.  And as we all know — limonene, linalool, and linalyl acetate are shown to have anti-inflammatory effects.

Overall, bergamot oil has been reported to demonstrate antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, neuroprotective, and analgesic activity.

But it is also important to note that bergamot oil has seen side effects such as photosensitivity.

Bottom line:  Bergamot oil provides antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, neuroprotective, and analgesic activity.  There may be some side effects such as photosensitivity.

I’m not sure why the folks at Goop put these particular essential oils together.  Generally speaking, when two different components are linked with the word “and”, it often means it is a specific mixture or trademarked combination of ingredients.  However, in this case, there doesn’t seem to be a defined reason why this was done.

In any case, we will review each component.

Lavandula Angustifolia (also known as English lavender) oil is traditionally used as an antiseptic and medicinal agent, and now predominantly used as a relaxant – providing as a form of sedative and neurological treatment through aromatherapy.

With the beauty and health industry morphing — more and more products are being formulated with essential oils.   You quite literally can’t walk by a beauty counter or drug store without seeing a product marketed with the promise of lavender oil’s therapeutic benefits – such as its antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties and its use in fighting several skin diseases. Lavender oil is rich in antioxidants (e.g. terpenoids, lactones and phenolic compounds) and is composed of the following main molecules: linalool (34-47%), linalyl acetate (17-34%), camphor (4-9%) and eucalyptol (3-7%) as determined from a 2016 study.

For a while, most of the research surrounding the benefits of lavender oil applied topically wasn’t the most compelling. However, a 2016 study recently evaluated lavender oil and its wound healing effect. The study concluded that topical application of lavender oil promoted collagen synthesis and up-regulation of TGF-β (needed for wound contraction).

This accelerated formation of tissue and collagen could be a game changer! The possibilities could be endless!

Citrus fruits have played an important role in food consumption, medicinal purposes, and aromatherapy.  Citrus medica limonum or citrus limon (lemon) oil often functions as a fragrance or skin conditioning agent in cosmetic products.  More specifically, lemon oil has been known as a stress reliever, antioxidant, skin penetration enhancer, and anti-anxiety agent to name a few.

In a 2012 study, lemon oil was evaluated in its role in enhancing the penetration of α-tocopherol (vitamin E), retinyl acetate (vitamin A), pyridoxine (vitamin B6) and ascorbic acid (vitamin C); released from oil/water or water/oil emulsions.  The study concluded that lemon oil significantly enhanced the transepidermal release of all vitamins from the topical emulsions in reconstructed human epidermis.

Bottom line: Lavender oil provides a natural aromatic fragrance that calms the mind and body. But the oil is composed of molecular components that prove quite beneficial as an antioxidant and anti-inflammatory agent; with new research unraveling possibilities for collagen synthesis!

Lemon oil often functions as a fragrance and skin conditioning agent.  It has been shown to be a skin penetration enhancer, antioxidant agent, stress relieving agent, and anti-anxiety agent.

The rhizomes of Iris pallida is an important source of aromatic raw material; and therefore, widely used in the perfume industry.  These rhizomes have been found to be rich in flavonoids. In fact, a 2012 study, investigated the composition of iris pallida rhizomes based on the quantitative and qualitative flavonoid amount.  The study concluded that iris pallida rhizomes were rich in flavonoids and was distinguishable compared to another iris species based on its polyphenol composition.

Other than this, I could not find any specific data or research that would correlate the benefits of this component added to the formulation relative to the overall effects on its claims.  

Bottom line:  For now, this functions as an aromatic ingredient and likely used as a fragrant component that is rich in polyphenols.

I could not find any specific data or research that would correlate the benefits of this ingredient added to the formulation relative to the overall effects on its claims.  In addition, assessment of the safety by way of the CIR panel of iris pallida is unknown.

Bottom line:  For now, this floral beauty likely functions as a fragrant component.

Cetearyl alcohol, an emulsifying agent, is a fatty alcohol combination blend and has been known to have emollient/skin softening capabilities.

Bottom line: There is no specific property, which stands out that may provide benefit in substantiating any relevant claim. Indeed, it is an emulsifying/thickening agent and may have some emollient attributes – but that’s all folks!

Glyceryl stearate is part of the glyceryl monoester or monostearate family – composed of a glycerin component and fatty acid component. It may also be referred to as monoglyceryl monoester.

Most monoglyceryl monoesters have several functions in cosmetics, but the most common function of the ingredients is a skin-conditioning agent; a few are reported to function only as a surfactant. It is an emulsifier and has been reported to cause irritation. In 1988, a report studied female patients who suffered dermatitis and found that single and repeated patch tests used to evaluate human skin irritation and sensitization potential of up to 20% glyceryl stearate showed the ingredient to be non-sensitizing and non-irritating.

However, we don’t know how muchthe % concentration of glyceryl stearate is in this product.   Since there haven’t been widespread complaints about skin irritations – I would venture to bet it is likely less than 20%.

Bottom line: Glyceryl stearate functions as a skin-conditioning ingredient, surfactant, an emulsifier and may have some potential for allergic reactions such as dermatitis.

Jojoba esters is a complex mixture of esters produced by the transesterification/ interesterification of simmondsia chinensis (jojoba) oil.

The name of this has always made me laugh. In fact, a childhood friend of mine and I would always chuckle at the sound of this ingredient in products. Was it “ho-ho-ba” or was it “joe-joe-ba”? Either way, you pronounce it – it’s a functional vehicle for providing natural hydration, moisturizing, and firming capabilities synergistically with other key extracts and essential oils. A number of reviews from scientific literature suggest that jojoba has anti-inflammatory effects and can be used on a variety of skin conditions including skin infections, skin aging, as well as wound healing.

In fact, a 2010 study assessed the hydration and viscoelastic effect of moisturizers containing different herbal ingredients (including jojoba oil) – after 3 weeks of topical application to the skin. The study found that there was a significant increase in skin viscoelasticity (90-95%) and an increase in water content of the stratum corneum (upper layer of the skin) by 60-70%.

Bottom line: Bottom line, this funny-sounding oil enhances the penetration of whatever is synergistically formulated into the product. It also provides hydration and promotion of skin elasticity!

Tocopherol is the most prevalent form of vitamin E in plant seeds and products derived from corn, sesame seed, sunflower, olive oils, and a plethora of nuts.

Most of the tocopherols are reported to function in cosmetics as antioxidants or skin conditioning agents.  In fact, a 2003 study, evaluated whether the combination of topical vitamin C and E was better for UV protection to the skin than an equivalent concentration of each – alone. The study concluded that each (in their own right) were significant antioxidants in the protection from skin damage. However, the combination of both C and E provided superior synergy against the likes of skin cancer and photo-aging. Further detailed information regarding tocopherol as a major lipid-soluble chain-breaking antioxidant of membranes and an important cellular protectant against oxidative damage was provided in a 2014 CIR safety assessment.

It is also interesting to note that in 1999, a study found that topical vitamin E applied on scars provided no benefit (in 90% of the cases) to the cosmetic outcome of scars after skin surgery.  And it even noticed that 33% of the patients treated, developed contact dermatitis to the vitamin E.

Overall, tocopherol is the predominant form of vitamin E in human and animal tissues, and it has a high bioavailability. The CIR safety assessment recognized that tocopherol has some absorption in the UV range. However, it was noted that according to animal and clinical testing, tocopheryl acetate was not photo-allergenic or phototoxic.

Bottom line: Strong antioxidant capacity. Best if formulated with Vitamin C ingredients but may be a potential for dermatitis.

Cacao, one of the top raw material sources for a multibillion-dollar food industry.  Whether you are a chocoholic or not – cacao and its derivatives have long been used in various foods.  

The pulp of the fruit of the Theobroma cacao tree is the source of cocoa butter (or cupuacu butter)– a natural lipid rich in saturated fatty acids that are stored in the form of triacylglycerides.  In fact, scientists have determined with its abundant polyphenol and flavonol composition – cacao seed butter may influence healing properties – improving dermal blood flow, increasing photoprotection and ultimately contributing to the maintenance of skin health!

In fact, we are just scratching the surface of its neuroprotective benefits as well as its antioxidant properties – which all began from the Aztec and Mayan civilizations!  Nowadays, it is considered a modern plant-based alternative to lanolin, which can often be a sensitizer and allergen.

A water absorption study was performed with each of the following: cupuacu, shea butter, and lanolin (stirring until separation was observed). The study concluded that cupuacu could support 440% of its weight in water, which means that 1 kg of cupuacu butter could absorb 4.4 kg of water; therefore, allowing it to function much more effectively as a skin hydrator and plumper.

In 2003, the chemical composition of cupuacu butter was evaluated and found to be rich in:

• Phytosterols (or plant sterols) which combat free radicals; to benefit dry, damaged skin and
• Polyphenols to combat free radical damage
• Fatty acids to protect and moisturize the skin
  • 18.8 % Oleic acid (Omega-9)
  • 55.2% Palmitic acid
  • 3.1% Linoleic acid (Omega-6)
  • 18.0% Linolenic acid (Omega-3)

Bottom line:  Provides photo-protective, helps to improve dermal blood flow, maintain overall skin health, skin hydrator and plumper.