Glossier Balm Dotcom Review

Petrolatum (also known as petroleum jelly) is often associated with the brand Vaseline.

Do you remember Vaseline? And that large yellow-beige tub with the blue cap?

Petrolatum is often a common and classic moisturizer; used in the prevention of skin infections such as after ambulatory surgeries and maintenance therapy of atopic dermatitis.  It is a complex combination of hydrocarbons which is able to have a long shelf life due to its processing.  As a moisturizing product, it is classified as an “occlusive” which are substances that have been found to physically block transepidermal water loss (TEWL).

One thing to note is that a 1992 study examined the assumption that the petroleum jelly in Vaseline was occlusive; able to block TEWL and trapping water under the skin’s surface. Interesting enough, the study concluded that the petroleum jelly in Vaseline neither forms nor acts like an epicutaneous impermeable membrane; instead, it permeated throughout the stratum corneum (upper skin layer) interstices, which allowed for normal barrier recovery despite its occlusive properties.

Either way, there have been numerous studies and research regarding petrolatum and its topical effects of the skin.  Here are just some interesting tidbits:

• A 1971 study determined that petrolatum was one of the best moisturizers with having a water vapor loss resistance 170 times that of olive oil.  However, it is cosmetically less acceptable due to its greasiness.  
• A 2001 letter determined that petrolatum (at a minimum concentration of 5%) may reduce TEWL by more than 98% followed by lanolin, mineral oil, and silicones which only reduce TEWL by 20–30%.  
• A 2016 study evaluated the cutaneous molecular and structural effects induced by petrolatum.  The study concluded that application of petrolatum induced expression of key barrier differentiation markers (filaggrin and loricrin), increased stratum corneum thickness, and significantly reduced T-cell infiltrates in the setting of “normal-appearing” or non-lesional atopic dermatitis skin.  In short, petrolatum robustly modulates antimicrobials and epidermal differentiation barrier measures.

One thing to note: Although known for its performance as a moisturizing agent; petrolatum often has side effect indications for occlusive folliculitis.  

Bottom line: Occlusive moisturizing agent often used for its capabilities of reducing TEWL by more than 98%.

Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil produced from castor beans function primarily as skin-conditioning agents, emulsifiers, surfactants, and cleansing agent in cosmetic products.  Castor oil is known to consist of up to 90% ricinoleic acid:

• 4% linoleic acid (Omega-6)
• 3% oleic acid (Omega-9)
• 1% stearic acid
• Less than 1% linolenic fatty acids (Omega-3).

This isn’t the new kid on the block.  In fact, castor oils origins stem from Eastern Africa, China, and India approximately 1,400 years ago as a raw material!  But it was not until 1988, that castor oil was evaluated for its transepidermal water loss (TEWL) potential.  The study concluded that castor oil (in addition to other occlusive agents: mineral oil and sesame seed oil) showed a decrease in TEWL rate.  

Bottom line: Castor oil is an occlusive agent that shows a reduction in TEWL.

Beeswax is a structure that forms out of honeycomb.  Bees secrete this waxy material to build their lovely honeycomb hive in order to protect and store honey.  Therefore, it makes sense that beeswax itself is rich in hydrophobic protective properties – more specifically, hydrocarbons, free fatty acids, esters of fatty acids & alcohols, and various exogenous substances.  

In the past, the pharmaceutical industry has used beeswax as a key ingredient to prepare ointments and creams to soothe wounds.  This really hasn’t changed much even with present-day modernization. However, scientists and researchers have discovered the antimicrobial benefits and properties of beeswax.  Providing as a good alternative to harsher synthetic chemicals that thwart microbial growth in formulations and products.  Even determining that not only is beeswax helpful as an anti-inflammatory source but when coupled with olive oil has been proven to be effective for the treatment of atopic dermatitis and psoriasis.  

Bottom line:   Beeswax is a natural material with protective strength from its fatty acids and hydrophobic properties.  Creating an amazing moisturizing material. Plus it is a good natural alternative for its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties!

Lanolin is a product of sheep sebaceous glands (or the oils from sheep) and the raw material is also often called wool fat or wool grease, which is composed of 87% esters and 11% fatty acids. 

A 2001 letter determined that petrolatum (at a minimum concentration of 5%) may reduce TEWL by more than 98% followed by lanolin, mineral oil, and silicones which only reduce TEWL by 20–30%.  

One thing to note is that lanolin was found to be the ninth most common identified allergen in 27 (10%) out of 276 products in a 2008 study.  Even though the main culprit of sensitization is lanolin alcohol, its chemical composition derived from sheep makes it difficult to isolate the exact contact allergens.  However, lanolin is considered safe based on CIR safety assessment.

Bottom line: Lanolin may reduce TEWL but may be a potential allergen for some individuals.

Spotted: According to Glossier’s ingredient list, there is a spelling error with Dipalmithoyl Hydroxyproline.  I have provided the correct spelling in the header.

According to some academic publications, dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline is a peptide with abilities to prevent collagen degradation.  However, extensive digging found little to no information corroborating this information for this specific ingredient.  However, a 2018 review of proline and hydroxyproline in collagen synthesis and animal growth was conducted.  The review concluded that glycine, proline, and hydroxyproline contributed to 57% of the total amino acids in collagen.  In addition, the review assessed that hydroxyproline functionally provided as maintenance of connective tissue structure and served as an anti-oxidative molecule.

Bottom line:   Not much detailed information was found for dipalmitoyl hydroxyproline but some publications correlated it with having effects on collagen structure and function.  This may be true if research may be drawn from proline and hydroxyproline.

Cacao, one of the top raw material sources for a multibillion-dollar food industry.  Whether you are a chocoholic or not – cacao and its derivatives have long been used in various foods.  

The pulp of the fruit of the Theobroma cacao tree is the source of cocoa butter (or cupuacu butter)– a natural lipid rich in saturated fatty acids that are stored in the form of triacylglycerides.  In fact, scientists have determined with its abundant polyphenol and flavonol composition – cacao seed butter may influence healing properties –improving dermal blood flow, increasing photoprotection and ultimately contributing to the maintenance of skin health!

In fact, we are just scratching the surface of its neuroprotective benefits as well as its antioxidant properties – which all began from the Aztec and Mayan civilizations!  Nowadays, it is considered a modern plant-based alternative to lanolin, which can often be a sensitizer and allergen.

A water absorption study was performed with each of the following: cupuacu, shea butter, and lanolin (stirring until separation was observed). The study concluded that cupuacu could support 440% of its weight in water, which means that 1 kg of cupuacu butter could absorb 4.4 kg of water; allowing it to function much more effectively as a skin hydrator and plumper.

In 2003, the chemical composition of cupuacu butter was evaluated and found to be rich in:

• Phytosterols (or plant sterols) which combat free radicals; to benefit dry, damaged skin and
• Polyphenols to combat free radical damage
• Fatty acids to protect and moisturize the skin
  • 18.8 % Oleic acid (Omega-9)
  • 55.2% Palmitic acid
  • 3.1% Linoleic acid (Omega-6)
  • 18.0% Linolenic acid (Omega-3)

Bottom line:  Provides photo-protective, helps to improve dermal blood flow, maintain overall skin health, skin hydrator and plumper.

Oryza sativa (rice) bran extract (or often called rice hulls) often function as an abrasive and bulking agent in formulations.  It is comprised of proteins, lipids, carbohydrates, mineral ash, and water. The fatty acid composition includes palmitic, stearic, oleic, and linoleic acids.  At low concentrations, rice bran extract contains UV absorbing compounds with no clinical phototoxicity.  The fatty acid composition of rice bran extract includes the following:

• 44.6% Oleic acid
• 36.5% Linoleic acid
• 16.9% Palmitic acid
• 2.0% Stearic acid

A 2011 study of rice bran bioactives entrapped in niosomes was conducted; evaluating the antioxidant capabilities in skincare products from ferulic acid (F), gamma-oryzanol (O) and phytic acid (P).  The study demonstrated the antioxidant activities and skin hydration enhancement of the rice bran bioactive compounds when entrapped in niosomes and incorporated in cream formulations.

In addition, a 2012 study evaluated the anti-aging effects (the skin hydration, elasticity, thickness and roughness, and pigmentation) of the gel and cream containing niosomes entrapped with the rice bran bioactive compounds in human volunteers.  Ultimately, the formulations containing niosomes entrapped with the rice bran bioactive compounds gave superior clinical anti-aging activity which can be applied as a novel skin product.

Bottom line: Rice bran extract functions as an abrasive and bulking agent in formulations; with anti-aging, skin hydration enhancement, and antioxidant properties.

Tocopheryl acetate is the acetate ester form of tocopherol – which is the most prevalent form of vitamin E in plant seeds and products derived from corn, sesame seed, sunflower, olive oils, and a plethora of nuts.

Baffled Side Note:  I’m not quite sure why Glossier lists both tocopheryl acetate AND tocopherol in their ingredients list but not together, as one is the synthetically derived acetate derivative of the other.  Seems a bit redundant since the overall molecule itself is the same.

In addition, studies have also determined that free vitamin E (tocopherol) is much more sensitive to oxidative degradation, compared to the acetate derivative (tocopheryl acetate); which may be attributed to the larger molecule (acetate component).

Most of the tocopherols are reported to function in cosmetics as antioxidants or skin conditioning agents. In fact, a 2003 study, evaluated whether the combination of topical vitamin C and E was better for UV protection to the skin than an equivalent concentration of each – alone.  The study concluded that each (in their own right) were significant antioxidants in the protection from skin damage. However, the combination of both C and E provided superior synergy against the likes of skin cancer and photoaging.  Further detailed information regarding tocopherol as a major lipid-soluble chain-breaking antioxidant of membranes and an important cellular protectant against oxidative damage was provided in a 2014 safety assessment.

It is also interesting to note that in 1999, a study found that topical vitamin E applied on scars provided no benefit (in 90% of the cases) to the cosmetic outcome of scars after skin surgery.   And it even noticed that 33% of the patients treated, developed contact dermatitis to the vitamin E.

Overall, tocopherol is the predominant form of vitamin E in human and animal tissues, and it has a high bioavailability.  The safety assessment recognized that tocopherol has some absorption in the UV range.  However, it was noted that according to animal and clinical testing, tocopheryl acetate was not photo-allergenic or phototoxic.

Bottom line:  Strong antioxidant capacity.  Best if formulated with vitamin C ingredients but may be a potential for dermatitis.

According to a comprehensive analysis of seed oils performed in 1992, Sunflower oil contains high levels of vitamins A, D, and K – with crude sunflower oil having the highest content of vitamin E in the form of α-tocopherol amongst oils.

In a randomized study in 2013, sunflower seed oil preserved stratum corneum integrity (that’s skin talk) – and improved hydration in volunteers who applied it topically after 4 weeks. Oddly enough, the study also found that in contrast; topical treatment of sunflower oil WITH olive oil significantly damaged the skin barrier, and therefore had the potential to promote the development of and exacerbate existing atopic dermatitis.  Thankfully, none of the Balm Dotcom products include olive oil.

And finally, helianthus annuus sunflower seed oil has a fatty acid composition of the following according to the CIR panel:

• Oleic acid (14.7-37.2%), an omega-9 fatty acid
• Linoleic acid (51.5-73.5%), an omega-6 fatty acid
• Linolenic acid (0.3%), an omega-3 fatty acid
• Palmitic acid (5-7.2%)
• Stearic acid (2-6.5%)

Bottom line: High vitamin E content for improved hydration.  

See review of Tocopheryl Acetate.

We are no stranger to rosemary and its use in cosmetic products for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial capabilities.  We also are familiar with rosemary for its aromatic properties in foods.  But did you know – it has various analgesic and antibacterial properties? More specifically, rosemary oil has been effective against bacterium acne.  In 2007, a study found that there were significant changes in morphology and size of Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) in response to rosemary oil treatment.

This sounds promising, right?  Acne sufferers from all over the world rejoice!  

Well before you start singing its praises – a study in 2005 reported a rare case of allergic contact dermatitis due to a cleansing gel containing rosemary extract (0.1% distilled water).  So if you suffer from sensitive skin outbreaks – be forewarned!

But in 2016, a study investigated the combination efficacy of rosemary and grapefruit in decreasing susceptibility to ultraviolet radiation, in addition to the improvement of skin wrinkledness and elasticity.  The study confirmed the photoprotective and anti-aging efficacy with combination use of rosemary and grapefruits.

Bottom line:  Used for its aroma and antibacterial properties for acne treatment.

Aroma and flavor may be used interchangeably in cosmetic products.  Fundamentally speaking, it often functions to produce or mask a particular flavor.  But the mysteriousness with this listed somehow bothers me. Why not just include the specific ingredient or compound that could be used to impact or elicit the specific aroma or flavor?

Bottom line: No data with respect to aroma or flavor ingredients added that could benefit use in cosmetics.

Much like calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate often function as bulking agents, preservatives and skin-conditioning agents in cosmetic products.  It is essentially a synthetic product formed by the fusion of boron oxide, silica, sodium oxide, aluminum oxide, and calcium oxide.

However, not much peer-reviewed research was found or available for this ingredient focused as it pertains to its cosmetic benefits or lack thereof.  As a result, the only information that could be extracted was through specific vendors that synthesize calcium sodium borosilicate and the CIR safety assessment.

And based on the CIR assessment, reported human repeat insult patch test was performed containing calcium aluminum borosilicate and observed no adverse effects or evidence of sensitization.

Bottom line:   Function as bulking agents, preservatives and skin-conditioning agents in cosmetic products.

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite is a synthetic mimic of a natural mineral (mica-type) that functions as a bulking agent and viscosity-increasing agent.  It is a fluorine-substituted mineral partially composed of magnesium aluminum silicate sheets.

Again, not much peer-reviewed research was found or available for this ingredient focused as it pertains to its cosmetic benefits or lack thereof.  As a result, the only information that could be extracted was through specific vendors that synthesize calcium sodium borosilicate and the CIR safety assessment.

And based on the CIR assessment, two reported human dermal patch tests were performed containing synthetic fluorphlogopite in distilled water and observed no irritation.  And one in vitro skin model test was performed and concluded that synthetic fluorphlogopite had a lack of irritant potential

Bottom line:   Functions as a bulking agent and viscosity-increasing agent.

Silica is abundant and makes up of 26% of the Earth’s crust by weight.  It is found primarily in rocks, sand, and clay. Sounds a lot like Mica, huh?  In fact, mica is a form of silica! Along with clay (as mentioned before), quartz, emerald, talc, glass, etc.

In its purest form – silica is unable to exist in its natural state due to its propensity to react with the atmosphere (i.e. Oxygen).  As a result, silica is actually silicon dioxide.  And generally speaking, there are two forms of silica – crystalline and amorphous.  At present, the amorphous form processed synthetically; is traditionally used in cosmetics as an absorbent, anti-caking agent, and suspending agent.

Did you know that it is the third most abundant trace element in the human body?  And silicon has been suggested that to improve skin strength and elasticity and pivotal in collagen synthesis?  And it is suggested that a higher silicon content in the hair results in a lower rate of hair loss and increased brightness.  Well, now you do!

In fact, in a study of women aged 40 to 65 with typical signs of photoaging — intake of a bioavailable form of silicon supplements saw a significant improvement after 20 weeks in skin surface characteristics and in its mechanical properties.  The study also observed significant improvement in the fragility of nails and hair compared to the placebo group after a nine-month period.

Bottom line:  Silica (or silicon) is safe as it is clearly an abundant element within nature AND your body.  And with studies pointing to its positive effects on skin elasticity and improvement in photo-aged skin.

Sodium saccharin is an artificial sweetener (or sugar substitute) that is often used instead of table sugar to sweetened foods and beverages.  When we often hear the word “saccharin”, we often correlate those pink packets of Sweet’N Low.

But we also equate saccharin with the knowledge, from historical scientific research, that it may be considered a carcinogen since the late 70s.  

Carcinogenic?  

Why would you add this in your formulations, Glossier?

Why!?

In fact, since the 70s, the FDA has tried to ban saccharin use due to animal studies linking correlations to bladder cancer in rats.   And although this study still remains viable; at present, there is no clear relationship between saccharin consumption and health risks to humans at normal doses.  Additionally, a 2004 study examined the potential correlation between saccharin (and other artificial sweeteners) consumption and cancer incidence and concluded that risk to induce cancer was negligible based on current literature research.  

But I’m still staying away from saccharin use.  That’s my personal opinion.

In the end, there doesn’t seem to present a plausible or beneficial need to utilize sodium saccharin in this formulation.  If Glossier intended to use sodium saccharin to impart that sweet, sugary “birthday” cake-like taste; then perhaps utilizing more natural sugar alternatives to the formulation may have been a better route.  Especially since saccharin use could be potentially carcinogenic or cancer-inducing.  Alarming, as saccharin is still an unknown and up for scientific debate.  

Bottom line:   Sodium saccharin is an artificial sweetener with varying studies pointing to it its carcinogenic capacity.

Tin Oxide is an inorganic oxide and is the dioxide of tin.  It functions as an abrasive, bulking and opacifying agent in cosmetic products.

Again, not much peer-reviewed research was found or available for this ingredient focused as it pertains to its cosmetic benefits or lack thereof.  However, according to the CIR assessment, several clinical tests were performed.

A skin irritation and sensitization test was performed using powder eyeshadow containing approximately 0.3% of tin oxide.  No reactions were observed and it was concluded that the material did not have skin irritation or allergic contact sensitization potential.

Most important to our evaluation was a skin irritation and sensitization test performed on 103 completed subjects of a lipstick containing 0.5% tin oxide.  No reactions were observed and it was concluded that the test material did not have the potential for causing dermal irritation or allergic contact sensitization.

Another skin irritation test was performed of a lipgloss containing 0.35% tin oxide of 108 completed subjects.  No reactions were observed and it was concluded that the test material did not demonstrate a clinically significant potential for eliciting dermal irritation or sensitization.

Bottom line:   Functions as an abrasive, bulking and opacifying agent in cosmetic products with various clinical studies performed demonstrating no significant irritations.

Limonene is a monoterpene with a major component of essential oils from citrus fruits and often functions as a flavoring and fragrance agent due to its lemon scent; therefore, often found in perfumes, cosmetics, and candles.  It is often found in two forms, d-limonene (found in oranges) and l-limonene (found in lemons).

D-limonene and its metabolite were reported, in a 2014 study, to have tissue-repair properties.  The study noticed that topically applied d-limonene to patients with dermatitis and skin lesions demonstrated significant anti-inflammatory effects and contributed to healing effects on the epidermal barrier.

Although limonene has been designated as a chemical with low toxicity based upon lethal dose, skin irritation or sensitizing potential was reported following widespread use of this agent in various consumer products.

Bottom line:   Limonene is found in essential oils and provides anti-inflammatory and possible tissue-repair properties.  It functions as a flavoring and fragrance agent. And although there may be a potential for limonene to be a sensitizing allergen, some studies have pointed to its benefits in tissue-repair.

Titanium Dioxide is an inert, semiconducting material, which often exhibits photocatalytic activity in the presence of light.

Basically, it’s considered to be a “natural” material which can scatter UV and visible radiation – yet what is also astonishing is that titanium dioxide can also be absorbed at certain levels.  Absorption can often lead to adverse effects such as oxidative stress, cell damage, inflammatory responses, and genotoxic effects.

Yikes!

However, the effects are strongly mediated and dependent on the chemical and physical characteristics of titanium dioxide – such as size, purity, solubility, etc.  Since we as consumers are not privy to exact chemical amount/concentration/size that is generally formulated in products we purchase – this is certainly concerning!

Bottom line:  Overall titanium dioxide has been used in sunscreens since 1952.  However, the FDA has only recently approved its use in sunscreens since 1999.  Glossier is likely using titanium dioxide with the intention of maximizing some sort of pearlescent results.  

Reviewed in Birthday flavor.

Reviewed in Birthday flavor.

Alumina (aluminum oxide) is dehydrated aluminum hydroxide and functions as an abrasive, absorbent, anti-caking agent, bulking agent, and opacifying agent.  It is a mineral most commonly found in corundum (a crystalline form of aluminum oxide); which has two primary gem varieties, ruby and sapphire.

Now back to alumina as an abrasive.  

We’ve all heard of microdermabrasion treatment, right?  

Most people know to receive this form of treatment at the dermatologist or plastic surgeon’s office.  But did you know that this vacuum technique of superficial skin resurfacing came about with the developmental use of aluminum oxide crystals? For instance, a 2001 study, measured and quantified the effect of aluminum oxide microdermabrasion on photo-damaged skin on ten (10) subjects.  The study observed immediate changes to subjects’ skin surface in terms of roughness, topology, elasticity, sebum content, and stiffness.  In addition, a 2002 study assessed transepidermal water loss (TEWL), hydration, pH, and sebum production following aluminum oxide and sodium chloride (salt) microdermabrasion on eight patients.  The study concluded that both aluminum and sodium chloride forms of microdermabrasion altered the epidermal barrier.

So the bigger question is this:

If used as an abrasive, why include aluminum oxide in a formulation for a lip balm?  

What’s the benefit?

One can only assume that the use of alumina here is for its opacifying and absorbent functionalities.  Still, there might be better alternatives to use with similar functional capabilities. Especially if we take into account a 2013 study which evaluated lip products and found that (at higher concentration levels) consumers could be ingesting potentially hazardous amounts of aluminum as compared to acceptable daily limits.    

One thing that needs to be noted, there have been academic publications which speculate the exposure to elemental aluminum compounds could play a role in Alzheimer’s disease (here, here, and here), breast cancer, and other health problems.  At present, however, definitive academic research evaluating such speculation has failed to support that relationship.  But that doesn’t mean continual monitoring of this ingredient is not necessary.

In fact, based on the need for more research to understand this component, it certainly begs the question, “why include this in the formulation?”

And although alumina and aluminum hydroxide have been deemed safe via the CIR safety assessment, we would recommend to tread cautiously when this ingredient is included.

Bottom line:  Alumina functions as an abrasive, absorbent, anti-caking agent, bulking agent, and opacifying agent.  Some studies have pointed to potential health issues due to exposure.

Just dyes/pigments – nothing much to discuss here.  Is approved per the Personal Care Products Council and the FDA in the US.

CI 77492 (Yellow iron oxide)

Iron oxides are naturally sourced but synthetically processed.  Therefore, most “natural” marketed beauty companies tend to utilize iron oxides in their formulations due to this “naturally” derived colorant source.  Depending on the type of iron oxide, some varieties may have varying trace metals. Due to heavy regulations imposed by the FDA, iron oxides are generally safe as the trace amounts of metal are likely low.

Bottom line:  Synthetically processed but naturally sourced ingredient used as a colorant or pigment in cosmetics.  Although they do contain trace metals, due to heavy FDA regulations, the amount of allowable iron oxides in products is safe for consumers.

Reviewed in Birthday flavor.

Reviewed in Rose flavor.

Just dyes/pigments – nothing much to discuss here.  Is approved per the Personal Care Products Council and the FDA in the US.

Reviewed in Birthday flavor.

Peppermint is a popular herb most notably extracted for its pungent menthol oil and is widely used in cosmetics, personal hygiene products, foods, and fragrant applications. It has varying therapeutic properties and often used in aromatherapy, bath preparations, mouthwashes, toothpaste, and topical preparations.

In 2001, a safety assessment was performed and found the oil to primarily be used in cosmetic formulations as a fragrance component. The oil itself is composed of menthol and menthone. Irritation and sensitization clinical cases were reported due to peppermint oil application and/or its constituents. However, peppermint oil (at 8%) itself was not a sensitizer when tested using a maximization protocol.

And finally, a 2010 study found that the essential oil of mint may be exploited as a natural source of bioactive phytochemicals bearing antimicrobial and antioxidant potentials that could be supplemented for both nutritional purposes and preservation of foods.

Bottom line: This essential oil provides a pungent menthol (clean smelling) fragrance with evidence pointing to its antioxidant and antimicrobial properties.

Reviewed in Birthday flavor.

Parfum generally stands for up to several hundred fragrance ingredients which may or may not be disclosed to the consumer. A 2016 review of natural personal care products performed an analysis of its ingredient lists. Of the 71 natural cosmetic products containing the word “parfum” – only 15 actually indicated that the “parfum” description actually encompassed essential oils.

Since the inclusion of fragrances in cosmetics, there have been many reports of increased allergic responses such as contact dermatitis.  In fact, a 2014 review provided a two-part assessment of suspected fragrance allergens per the following: 1) Evaluation of the epidemiology of suspected fragrance allergens and 2) Reviewed screening methods, emerging fragrance allergens, and management of patients with fragrance contact allergy.  The review recommended several prevention strategies to reduce exposure to allergenic fragrances while still enabling its applicable use.

Bottom line: Parfum/fragrance use is a tricky subject.  Some don’t mind it, while others have intense responses to it due to contact dermatitis or other sensitivities.  

Benzyl benzoate function as a fragrance ingredient, preservative, pH adjuster, viscosity decreasing agent, and solvent in cosmetic products.  Historically speaking, benzyl benzoate was often used for the topical treatment of scabies infestation; a highly contagious form of dermatosis caused by mites.  

But most importantly, benzyl benzoate has been used as a pesticide.  

Ugh. Pesticides?! Really?!

But it gets worse, a 2009 study reported that benzyl salicylate, benzyl benzoate, and butylphenylmethylpropional were chemical components of cosmetic products which gave oestrogenic responses in a human breast cancer cell line in culture.  The study concluded that further research was necessary but that these compounds may be absorbed through human skin and might enter human breast tissues when topically applied around the breast area.

Bottom line: Benzyl benzoate function as a fragrance ingredient, preservative, pH adjuster, viscosity decreasing agent, and solvent in cosmetic products; but used as a pesticide and could have potential oestrogenic effects.