Sunday Riley Good Genes All-In-One Lactic Acid Treatment Review

The Opuntia (Cactaceae family) species – more specifically, the cactus pear fruit has been considered a functional food; based on its bioactive compounds such as vitamin C and vitamin E, polyphenols, carotenoids, and flavonoid compounds (e.g., kaempferol, quercetin, and isorhamnetin). A 2010 analytical study, evaluated the antioxidant constituents in cactus pear fruits and found that quercetin and isorhamnetin were the main flavonoids detected. The study provided the basic framework on the presence of bioactive compounds and antioxidant capacity in extracts of cactus pear fruits. And in 2013 and 2015, additional antioxidant capacity studies evaluated the Opuntia forms (i.e. prickly pear) – confirming the presence of bioactive antioxidant components.

Next, a review in 2014 showed the presence of natural cactus compounds having anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, hypoglycemic, antimicrobial and neuroprotective activities.

And a cosmetic nanoemulsion containing an Opuntia extract was evaluated for its thermal stability and moisturizing efficacy. The nanoemulsion (which contained 1% Opuntia extract and 0.5% xanthan gum) showed an increase in water content of the stratum corneum (layer of the skin) for 5 hours after application – with overall stability for up to 60 days.

But one of THE most interesting (and relevant) studies conducted was in 2016, which investigated the capacity of lactic acid bacteria to increase the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of cactus stems – in the form of lactic acid fermentation. Cactus cladodes (stem segments) have become increasingly popular for their medicinal properties and prevention of varying diseases – and often a source of phenolics, fatty acids, and polyunsaturated fatty acids. Ultimately, the study found that the process of lactic acid fermentation of cactus components actually enhanced the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

Bottom line: Cactus extract is strong in antioxidant capacity; rich in polyphenols, flavonoids, and bioactive compounds. And studies have shown when coupled with lactic acid – this nutrient and vitamin dense component may be amplified!

For the most part, we know what this is. This is the plant that brings us Tequila – the distilled beverage of choice that gives you your amazing refreshing margarita drinks!

But did you know that a component of agave plants called fructans provides as a potential source of prebiotics? In fact, reports have indicated that extracted fructans may even be linked to appetite regulation and lipid/glucose metabolism.

Not bad, but how is this relevant to my skin and cosmetics?

Honestly? After reading various publications on agave research relative to its components – there didn’t seem to be any clear connection or indication to its beneficial effects to anti-aging. That’s not to say that future research or ongoing research will not point to agave as a plant source capable of providing skincare benefits. Maybe it will…

But at the moment? Nada!

Bottom line: Good for drinks and to sweeten your food of choice. But nothing clear points to its skincare benefits.

I’m not even going to begin my rant on why this was even included in the long list of ingredients. If the folks at Sunday Riley can explain to me WHY (from a scientific perspective) this is used – I’d genuinely like to know.

I could not for the life of me; find anything remotely clear, useful, or scientific to the benefits of using this orchid extract.

Bottom line: Could not find any information linking to this ingredient to ANY benefit with respect to skincare.

I’m not really sure why Sunday Riley actually listed both ingredients together. Generally speaking, when a label includes an “and” between two specific ingredients – it generally means it’s some sort of proprietary blend or mixture strategically included in the formulation.

This is particularly intriguing since the first five ingredients in its NV-5 Ageless Complex should include aloe. Does that mean it includes aloe+yeast? Curious.

Nonetheless, we will break up each of these two ingredients:

Aloe – well, that’s really simple. We all know that aloe is one of those historical ingredients that have long since been used to soothe and nourish the skin. Whether it be it from cuts or burns, from healing a nasty sunburn or just ingesting it for digestion issues – it’s used for just about everything! But what do we really know about aloe?

Aloe vera extracts are rich in nutrients and according to the World Health Organization, is considered to be the most biologically active of the Aloe species – with 75 active constituents (including vitamins, minerals, saccharides, amino acids, anthraquinones, enzymes, lignin, saponins, and salicylic acids).

Ok, so it has a ton of important goodness! But what does that really mean to us? Well, a study in 2006 decided to evaluate that exact question – where they examined the effect of cosmetic formulations containing different concentrations of freeze-dried Aloe vera extract on skin hydration. What they determined was that the aloe vera extract was a naturally effective means to improve skin hydration upon application and complemented any treatment against dry skin.

Spotted: Saccharomyses Cerevisiae (Yeast) Extract – another typo either on Sephora’s website end or Sunday Riley’s labeling end. Since Sephora is likely to have extracted the ingredients list straight from Sunday Riley’s packaging – I’d likely point the obvious fumble to the company itself. But see in the above header for the correct spelling.

Anyways, saccharomyces cerevisiae (Yeast) Extract (also known as baker’s yeast) is often used in cosmetic products as it has been shown to function under oxidative stress (a scientific marker for aging skin) and improve skin conditions. A study in 2008, investigated the dermatological effects of cosmetic formulations containing saccharomyces cerevisiae extract in collaboration with vitamins A, C, and E. What was observed was that the saccharomyces cerevisiae extract with vitamins formulation actually enhanced skin moisture and long-term effects with improved texture.

Who DOESN’T want THAT?!

In fact, Bath and Body Works even patented a cosmetic bio-chelated mineral and humectant blend. The humectant blend composing of glycerin (70.7% to approximately 78.9% by weight), beet root extract (18.0% to 22.0% by weight), and Aloe barbadensis leaf polysaccharides (1.0% to 3.0% by weight). The bio-chelated blend composing of six different minerals (containing silicon, magnesium, copper, iron, zinc, and calcium) – all obtained in the form of Saccharomyces cerevisiae extracts separately. The patent language even claims that their humectant blend in combination with their bio-chelated mineral blend works synergistically to enhance the skin’s hydration level.

Hmmm, aloe PLUS saccharomyces cerevisiae extracts under fermentation states?!

Sound familiar?

I suppose when research is available and points to positive outcomes relative to specific ingredients – the beauty industry listens!

Bottom line: Aloe and saccharomyces cerevisiae extracts shown to improve skin hydration and maintain moisture.

What can I say about lactic acid (or alpha hydroxy acid, AHA)? There is an abundance of information circulating around the blogosphere and academic arena with respect to lactic acid. Some sing its praises – while others demonize its various problems. What we know about AHAs, is this – it has been shown to moisturize the skin, make it smoother and create less wrinkled skin surfaces.

Whichever camp you subscribe to – one thing is fairly clear about using any lactic acid type product. And that is simply – how much are you getting? Concentration is important with this baby. A study in 1996 evaluated alpha-hydroxy acid products, containing low (5%) and high (12%) concentrations to determine whether concentration levels modulate changes in both the epidermis and dermis. What was observed was that cosmetic benefits from the use of alpha-hydroxy acids at 5% lactic acid modulated surface and epidermal changes. Whereas, 12% lactic acid influenced both the epidermis and the dermis layers.

To drive the point home, lactic acid concentration matters. However, we do not know the actual concentration amount of lactic acid formulated in Good Genes product.

Bottom line: Lactic acid helps with skin moisture and creating smooth, less wrinkled skin

Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (CCT) is an emollient ester that was deemed as a safe ingredient to use in products per a safety assessment conducted in 1980 per the CIR panel.

1980??!!

Well, it’s been quite some time since 1980. And I am willing to bet that there have been cases reported and studies performed relative to this particular ingredient. In fact, most recently in 2017, the same safety panel decided to re-evaluate and assess caprylic/capric triglyceride based on current clinical and animal data. And although the verdict isn’t necessarily in, I would be willing to bet the final assessment will deem this product safe as the origins of this ingredient come from benign oils.

Back to CCT (or sometimes known as caprylic acid) is a specific fraction of coconut/palm oil fatty acids – resulting in a stable form of esters. But how is this ingredient relevant to me?!

First, caprylic acid has been found and studied to have superior medical potential in anti-cancer, anti-Alzheimer’s, anti-Autism, and providing general circulatory improvement. But it also has potential beneficial applications as an anti-aging ingredient. Yessss!

Bottom line: Emollient ingredient derived from coconut and palm oil. Known for its skin-conditioning and anti-aging capabilities.

Butylene Glycol (or 1,3-Butylene glycol) is widely used in cosmetics as a low-irritant humectant in skincare products and topical products compared to propylene glycol. However, there have been various reported cases of allergic contact dermatitis and contact eczema caused by butylene glycol.

One of the reasons this ingredient has been included in cosmetic formulations is due to its moisturizing properties and its antimicrobial capabilities. But most importantly glycol is most widely used as a vehicle to deliver the beneficial goodness of key ingredients.

Bottom line: Used in cosmetics as a low-irritant humectant compared to propylene glycol with antimicrobial capabilities. Cases of contact dermatitis and eczema have been reported.

Squalane is the hydrogenated/saturated derivative of squalene. Squalene is an organic compound often derived from amaranth seed, fish oils, wheat germ, and most importantly – olives. In fact, human sebum also contains 13% squalene as one of its major constituents – offering protection to skin’s lipids as natural sun blockers – at high levels. How interesting!

Various studies evaluated both squalane and squalene for its anti-cancer, antioxidant, skin hydrating and emollient activities in both animal models and in vitro environments. And at specific concentrations used in moisturizers, squalane has been shown to have little effect in terms of irritation relative to skin permeability.

And of the two – squalane is the least susceptible to oxidation compared to its squalene derivative.

Bottom line: Strong antioxidant, skin hydrating, and emollient agent. Natural sun-blockers!

Cyclomethicone is a clear, odorless, silicone-based cosmetic solvent that is frequently used as a vehicle or carrier of oil-soluble moisturizing products. This solvent is an interesting ingredient in that it evaporates fairly quickly – allowing the active ingredient (or ingredients) of choice to do its thing and readily absorb.

The function of cyclomethicone in cosmetics is reported to have emollient and humectants capabilities may be used as a solvent, provides viscosity control to a formulation, and is used in hair conditioning.

Bottom line: Cyclomethicone is a conditioning agent or emollient/humectant agent.

Dimethicone (also called polydimethylsiloxane) is a type of silicone oil with properties that make it a useful ingredient in many skincare (and haircare) products. This silicone with two methyl group compound is extremely resistant to water; yet, still flexible and provides ideal properties as a lubricant.

In a Cosmetic Ingredient Review assessment performed in 2003, dimethicone (just like cyclomethicone) is poorly absorbed into the skin due to its large molecular weight. Therefore, when applied to the skin it prevents water loss and penetration of exogenous substances, thus acting as a skin protector. Sounds good to me!

Bottom line: Conditioning agent, similar to cyclomethicone. Poorly absorbed itself but effective in allowing the active ingredient of choice to penetrate quickly.

Other than this being a polypropylene glycol/polymer hybrid; which, by all accounts, should either make for a good thickening and stabilizing agent or emulsifying ingredient.

Either way, I could not find any solid data or research that would contribute to the benefits of this component added to the formulation relative to the overall effects to its claims. Various sites (which shall remain unnamed as the accuracy of their information remains to be seen) have indicated that this ingredient has emollient properties and is used in hair care products.

I’m still unsure of the correctness of those sites though.

Bottom line: It’s a stabilizer used to thicken the product. Does not offer any overall benefit with respect to claims.

Stearic acid is a saturated long-chain fatty acid found in various animal and plant fats. In cosmetics, it is commonly used as an anionic emulsifier and is also a major component of cocoa butter and shea butter.

A study in 2010, evaluated the amount and location of stearic acid (from a formulated cleanser) in the corneum (layer of the skin) after in vivo cleansing. They concluded that the estimated total fatty acid delivered to skin from cleansing is comparable to the amount of fatty acid in a corneum layer. Basically what was delivered was what was found on the skin layer.

Ok now for the important stuff.

Unsaturated fatty acids including oleic acid and linoleic acid suppress melanogenesis (the process of melanin production and distribution) and tyrosinase (a key enzyme that acts in the initial step of melanin biosynthesis) activity.

Melanin production plays a key role in hyperpigmentation – that we know. Yes, those pesky dark spots which appear after exposure to UV light or when one develops hyperpigmentary disorders.

And saturated fatty acids such as palmitic acid and/or stearic acid increase it. Oooff.

Bottom line: An emulsifying agent with negative effects at thwarting hyperpigmentation. Seems strange to include this ingredient, which could actually increase hyperpigmentation.

Yet another emulsifier. Sigh. It seems practically every ingredient is some kind of emulsifier in this long list of Good Genes ingredients – with its main impact used in stabilizing the emulsion. But this particular emulsifying agent is a fatty alcohol combination blend and has been known to have emollient/skin softening capabilities.

Bottom line: There is no specific property, which stands out that may as provide benefit in substantiating anyone relevant claim. Indeed, it is an emulsifying/thickening agent and may have some emollient attributes – but that’s all folks!

Glyceryl stearate is part of the glyceryl monoester or monostearate family – composed of a glycerin component and fatty acid component. It may also be referred to as monoglyceryl monoester.

Most monoglyceryl monoesters have several functions in cosmetics, but the most common function of the ingredients is a skin-conditioning agent; a few are reported to function only as a surfactant. It is yet another emulsifier in a LONG army of emulsifying agents included in the list of Good Gene ingredients.  It has also been reported to cause irritation. In 1988, a report studied female patients who suffered dermatitis and found that single and repeated patch tests used to evaluate human skin irritation and sensitization potential of up to 20% glyceryl stearate showed the ingredient to be non-sensitizing and non-irritating.

Phew! That’s a relief – right? Well, again, we don’t really know at how much % glyceryl stearate did the good folks at Sunday Riley formulate this product.   Since there haven’t been widespread complaints about skin irritations – I would venture to bet it is likely less than 20%.

Peg-100 Stearate is a polyethylene glycol (PEG) ester of stearic acid – also known as PEG stearates. They are nonionic surfactants used in cosmetic products. PEG stearates are soft waxy solids.

Bottom line: Glyceryl stearate functions as a skin-conditioning ingredient and may have some potential for allergic reactions such as dermatitis.

Arnica montana extract is an extract of dried flowerheads of the plant, Arnica montana. It is a plant material derived from the dried flowers, roots, or rhizomes of A. Montana.

Bit of trivia: Common names for this extract include leopard’s bane, mountain tobacco, mountain snuff, and wolf’s bane.

The plant itself has been used historically for a host of ailments to alleviate pain, inflammation, and tissue healing. A 2016 study, investigated the therapeutic effects/mechanism of action of A. montana flower methanol extract against both inflammation and oxidative stress in a collagen-induced arthritis rat model. They observed alleviation of arthritis in rats and attributed it to the combined action of phenolic and flavonoid compounds found in the A. Montana flower methanol extract. In addition, the study also noted a decrease in free-radical-generating toxicants and enhanced antioxidant properties, which prevented additional tissue damage.

Yet, the actual chemical composition of arnica remains largely dependent on the extracted part of the plant – be it flower, root, etc. Generally speaking, the flower and root are the most pharmacologically active compounds – composed of sesquiterpene lactones, thymol derivatives, flavonoids, acid polysaccharides, and their glycoconjugates.

Bottom line: Extract with enhanced anti-inflammatory, antioxidant properties. Has been shown to decrease free radicals and prevent tissue damage.

Peg-75 meadowfoam oil is a PEG derivative of Limnanthes alba (meadowfoam) seed oil – a mixture of meadowfoam glycerides and fatty acids from the oil. When extracted, the seed oil of meadowfoam contains glucolimnanthin, a methoxylated benzylglucosinolate whose degradation products are herbicidal and anti-microbial.

Meadowfoam oil, itself, has been to shown to exhibit exceptional oxidative stability – making it a desirable ingredient often used in cosmetic products. These oils are used in a wide variety of cosmetic products for their skin conditioning, emollient, and moisturizing properties.

Bottom line: PEG derivative of Meadowfoam oil with skin conditioning, emollient, and moisturizing properties – exhibiting oxidative stability as well.

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root (also known as licorice root) is actually a herb used traditionally in medicine to relieve ailments (such as bronchitis, allergies, sore throats, etc). But it’s also been used as an anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antimicrobial, and even effects memory enhancement.

Just to be clear we are talking about this:

Not this:

However, with respect to this review, it has been most notably used for its skin whitening, skin depigmentation, anti-aging, emollient, anti-acne, and photoprotection effects.

Wow! This root extract packs a lot of punch!

In fact, licorice actually contains a variety of bioactive compounds, such as flavonoids, amino acids, starches, and sugars; which affect its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant punch!

Bottom line: Multifaceted extract with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, skin whitening, and emollient capabilities to name a few.

Although Sunday Riley lists Cymbopogon Schoenanthus as “Lemongrass” Oil – it is actually identified as camel grass. The true scientific name for lemongrass is actually “Cymbopogon citratus”.  Although both are under the same genus – its difference bears recognition.

So I’m not exactly sure if this was a calculated move or another mislabeling/typo on Sunday Riley’s end.

In any case, if they were truly looking to indicate lemongrass oil as one of their ingredients relative to the overall cosmetic effect of this product—then let’s begin by examining it – shall we?

The lemongrass plant, itself, is reported to contain phytoconstituents such as flavonoids and phenolic compounds, which consist of luteolin, isoorientin 2’-O-rhamnoside, quercetin, kaempferol, and apigenin.

In addition, various studies indicate that Cymbopogon citratus possesses various pharmacological activities such as antifungal, antidandruff, antibacterial, antioxidants, and anti-inflammatory properties. Lemongrass oil has also been evaluated for its protective effects relative to DNA damage – indicating that it is a potential as an anticarcinogenic ingredient.

Bottom line: Essential oil rich in flavonoids and phenolic compounds possessing anti-inflammatory, antifungal antimicrobial, antidandruff, and anticarcinogenic, and antioxidant properties.

Triethanolamines (TEA) are used as wetting agents in shampoos, lotions, creams, and other cosmetics. TEA may often be used as a preservative in cosmetics as well. But most importantly, TEA functions as a surfactant or pH adjuster and often as a skin-conditioning agent.

However, as with most preservatives, there is always the likelihood of developing an allergic reaction. TEA is certainly one that isn’t removed from that category. In fact, in a 2012 study, a slew of ingredients known for allergic reactions was tested on 147 patients. Of those ingredients, it was concluded that TEA was one of the more frequently associated ingredients for allergic contact dermatitis.

Do you see some bizarre pattern here?

Many of the ingredients listed in Good Genes seem to sing the same song – and that is they offer some form of potential for an allergic reaction.

Nerd note: During my days while working on the bench (lab) – I often used TEA in a buffer (solution) and then slowly adjusted the pH of that either with some sort of acid or base accordingly. The TEA was often varying concentrations but I remember it having a very strong smell.

Bottom line: Preservative that functions as a surfactant or pH adjuster and often as a skin-conditioning agent but offers the potential for allergic contact dermatitis.

Spotted: Xantham Gum – another typo either on Sephora’s website end or Sunday Riley’s labeling end. Again, since Sephora is likely to have extracted the ingredients list straight from Sunday Riley’s packaging – I’d likely point the obvious fumble to the company itself. See in the above header for the correct spelling.

So what is this Xanthan Gum? It is essentially a microbial polysaccharide gum made of monosaccharide components (glucose, glucuronic acid, 6-acetulmannoe, and 4,6-pyruvylated mannose). It is often used as a skin-conditioning agent, emulsifying agent, and binder.

But the most interesting part of polysaccharides is their anti-oxidative capacity as potential lipid protectors for topical administration, which was examined in a 2005 study.

English, please?!

Well, what this means is this ingredient helps in the protection of human skin against UV-induced damage. Who doesn’t love that?

Bottom line: It is a skin-conditioning agent, emulsifying agent, and binder – with a strong anti-oxidative capacity to thwart UV damage to the skin.

Phenoxyethanol is a preservative used to inhibit the growth of microorganisms in cosmetic products. Generally, a product formulated with high water content (is in this situation) is prone to the growth of microorganisms unless certain precautions or ingredients are added to thwart such problems.

However, overuse of preservatives within a formulation has also been shown to lead to increased incidences of contact allergy. Therefore, adding these ingredients poses the question of whether it is truly worth it.

Current concentration use in cosmetics based on a CIR assessment has indicated that phenoxyethanol may be used at a range of ≤ 0.0002% to 1%.

Bottom line: A preservative used to thwart growth of microorganisms in high water content formulated products. No real benefit to claims with potential for skin irritations.

Steareth-20 is an alkyl polyethylene glycol (PEG)/polypropylene glycol (PPG) ether and often function as surfactants, skin-conditioning agents, or emulsifying stabilizers.

Since data on steareth-20 itself is fairly limited if at all – I’ll mainly comment on alkyl PEG/PPG ethers as a whole. The presence of the ether linkage component gives these structures stability and enable them to tolerate extreme pH levels. If this is true, knowing that Good Genes is roughly around an acidic pH of 2.6, which is according to Beautypedia and unconfirmed from authorized Sunday Riley sellers, then an extremely low pH would remain stable.

The use of alkyl PEG/PPG ethers in topical drug delivery systems is quickly becoming a hot topic in the research field. In a 2012 publication, evaluation of nanostructured systems containing surfactants (alkyl PEG/PPG ethers) relative to oleic acid was assessed. What they ultimately found was that the oily phases changed mechanically – demonstrating adhesive properties in combination with these thermodynamically-stable microemulsions from the alkyl PEG/PPG ethers.

Bottom line: Functions as surfactants, skin-conditioning agents, or emulsifying stabilizers and provides stability at acidic pH conditions.

Dmdm Hydantoin, is a cosmetic preservative, and often known as a formaldehyde releaser (FAR). Now, before you start to freak out and think, “why would they formulate with a preservative solely used to release formaldehyde? Does Good Genes secretly have formaldehyde?”

First, formaldehyde (which is a form of biocidal preservative) was voted as the “Allergen of the Year” in 2015 by The Dermatologist. Yuck! So why use it? Well, it’s mainly used in preventing contamination in various personal care products as an antimicrobial ingredient.

Now, back to the purpose of using dmdm hydantoin as a FAR in Good Genes. It is quite possible that the folks at Sunday Riley may have added small amounts of formaldehyde in the formulation of Good Genes in order to prevent contamination or bacterial growth. Especially given a 2014 study, which reported a case of contact dermatitis after a patient applied an alcohol swab to the skin. The swab was labeled as having 82% ethanol and water as the only ingredients. Yet, high-performance liquid chromatography analysis showed that the alcohol swab contained formaldehyde as an undisclosed ingredient.

If they say they didn’t – then I would find it rather strange that a FAR would be simply added without rhyme or reason. And based on a study in 2000, it was concluded that 33% of 67 moisturizers evaluated did not have proper labeling in regards to their formaldehyde/FRP content.

However, since neither the general public nor I am privy to their exact formulation – obviously, I can’t say that with 100% certainty.

So why bother including both ingredients – formaldehyde and its releasing agent then?

Especially when there are gentler preservative options and antimicrobial options. And it is safe to say this question is certainly warranted as studies have indicated FARs to cause contact dermatitis allergies.

Finally, from the research I performed to determine WHY this would even be remotely beneficial, I came up empty. Ugh.

Bottom line: Other than the obvious that this is a preservative and its primary goal is to prevent microbial growth in the product. It really has no clinical benefits or skincare benefits.