Caudalie Beauty Elixir Review

There’s really no need to go into great detail about this very basic component. Oddly enough, applying massive amounts of water onto the skin surface doesn’t actually hydrate – contrary to popular belief. It is that magical balance when hydrating components seeps under the skin’s surface is when we start to see benefits.

The other important thing to note is – when a product’s main component tends to be water – there can be issues of bacterial contamination or growth. Unless there is some ingredient that may counter this within the formulation stability – such as a chelating agent.

Bottom line: Water is neither here nor there. But if this facial spray is mainly JUST WATER with a tiny bit of ACTUAL ingredient – well then are we truly getting the most bang for our buck?

For the most part alcohol – more specifically ethanol – has been widely used in all kinds of products with direct exposure to the human skin (for example hand disinfectants, cosmetics like hairsprays or mouthwashes, pharmaceutical preparations, and many household products). Topically applied ethanol acts as a skin penetration enhancer yet has been associated with mild skin irritations and even contact dermatitis.

Use and safety are still an ongoing debate within the cosmetic and medical industry – whether it’s carcinogenic, causes skin cancer combined with UV radiation, and cause other skin disorders (such as psoriasis, eczema, etc).

Yet, there was a study, which suggested topical application of 10% ethanol may induce stimulation of wound healing. But to go back to ethanol as a penetration enhancer – although (in theory) this would seem like an amazing property as an ingredient. But a 2008 safety review of ethanol in cosmetics, determined that the permeation-enhancing capabilities of ethanol could potentially lead to an increased absorption of other components of topically applied formulations (e.g. nitrosamines from cosmetics).

Bottom line: Topical alcohol acts as a penetration enhancer and antimicrobial properties but could have potential issues: skin irritations (psoriasis, eczema, dermatitis). Not to mention it can be very drying.

Various studies have suggested that citrus aurantium used for aromatherapy purposes showed a decrease in anxiety and stress levels. So whether these citrus oils are simply added to calm your anxious senses and mind as part of the skincare treatment process – we will never know. But the fragrance and aroma offers such a relaxing component – don’t you think?

Bottom line: Used for its aroma and stress/anxiety reduction. Strong anti-inflammatory effect.

The term “parfum” in the ingredient list generally stands for up to several hundred fragrance ingredients which may or may not be disclosed to the consumer. A 2016 review of natural personal care products performed an analysis of its ingredient lists. Of the 71 natural cosmetic products containing the word “parfum” – only 15 actually indicated that the “parfum” description actually encompassed essential oils.

Bottom line: We can only assume that the fragrance part of this description stems from the essential oil ingredients, which make up the better part of the product.

We are no stranger to rosemary and its use in cosmetic products. We also are familiar with rosemary for its aromatic properties in foods. But did you know – it has various analgesic and antibacterial properties? More specifically, rosemary oil has been effective against bacterium acne. In 2007, a study found that there were significant changes in morphology and size of Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) in response to rosemary oil treatment.

This sounds promising, right? Acne sufferers from all over the world rejoice!

Well before you start singing its praises – a study in 2005 reported a rare case of allergic contact dermatitis due to a cleansing gel containing rosemary extract (0.1% distilled water). So if you suffer from sensitive skin outbreaks – this may be the one reason NOT to partake in the Luna craze.

Bottom line: Used for its aroma and antibacterial properties for acne treatment.

Potassium alum (or Potassium Aluminum Sulfate) is used in over the counter products as an antiseptic and astringent/styptic (to reduce bleeding in minor cuts and abrasions, nosebleeds, and hemorrhoids). Astringent properties often induce a tightening or tingling sensation in the skin.

It has been recently marketed as an all-natural alternative for deodorants and antiperspirants. There are also claims that this mineral salt can create an environment in which bacteria cannot survive. Other than that – not much is out there with respect to scientific data whether this ingredient is something to truly be worried about.

Bottom line: Antiseptic and astringent properties.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is one of the oldest humectant agent (water-attracting) ingredients used to assist in hydrating and moisturizing the skin surface. The idea of moisturizers and emollients are not only used to smooth the skin but to provide a defined supple appearance after repeated use.

A 1993 study evaluated the influence of glycerin, water, and various other skin mechanics to clarify the effects of short-term influence. The study showed that utilization of these skin mechanics induced significant changes in the mechanical properties of human skin in vivo even AFTER 10 minutes of application.  Wow!

However, a 2001 study evaluated the influence of a cream containing 20% glycerin and whether it affected the skin barrier function during repeat application. Yet, the study failed to show an influence of glycerin on human skin with respect to TEWL (transepidermal water loss) and skin sensitivity.

Yet, time and time again, glycerol has been evaluated for its role in skin hydration, cutaneous elasticity, and epidermal barrier repair. In fact, glycerol has a tendency to accumulate within the entire thickness of the stratum corneum. A review in 2008 concluded that glycerol’s three hydrophilic hydroxyl groups have the ability to bind and retain water, thus providing enhanced skin hydration.

Bottom line: Humectant agent. Historically used for over 50 years in cosmetics to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

Peppermint is a popular herb most notably extracted for its pungent menthol oil. It’s widely used in cosmetics, personal hygiene products, foods, and fragrant applications. It has varying therapeutic properties and often used in aromatherapy, bath preparations, mouthwashes, toothpaste, and topical preparations.

In 2001, a safety assessment was performed and found the oil to primarily be used in cosmetic formulations as a fragrance component. The oil itself is composed of menthol and menthone. Isolated clinical cases of irritation and/or sensitization were reported due to peppermint oil application and/or its constituents. However, peppermint oil (at 8%) itself was not a sensitizer when tested using a maximization protocol.

And finally, a 2010 study found that the essential oil of mint may be exploited as a natural source of bioactive phytochemicals bearing antimicrobial and antioxidant potentials that could be supplemented for both nutritional purposes and preservation of foods.

Bottom line: This essential oil provides a pungent menthol (clean smelling) fragrance with evidence pointing to its antioxidant and antimicrobial properties.

Commiphora myrrha (c. myrrha) has many medicinal powers and has been used to treat various diseases, such as fever, ache, amenorrhea, tumors, stomach complaints, chest ailments, and skin infections in ancient India, China, and Greece. Components of c. myrrha have also been shown to exhibit diverse biological activities (such as cytotoxic, anesthetic, anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and antimicrobial effects).

Commiphora Myrrha Resin Extract is the natural extract of the Commiphora Myrrha tree.

Bottom line: Myrrh gum resin provides antiseptic, anti-inflammatory, and anti-microbial capabilities.

Benzoe (or benzoins) tonkinensis is a balsamic resin from the Styrax tonkinensis tree. The product can be described as white-yellow to reddish splits of flattened almond-like grains with a strong vanilla smell. The resin was found (in 2003 and 2006) to be composed mainly of benzoic acid (15-45 %) and coniferyl benzoate (15-60%), with lesser amounts of vanillin (<5%), benzyl benzoate (<2%), 2-hydroxy-1-phenylethanone and 1-(4-hydroxy-3-methoxyphenyl)-2-propanone.

Bottom line: For the most part benzoins are used in perfumes as preservatives and aromatizers in food and cosmetics due to their antioxidant properties.

Melissa Officinalis (M. Officinalis), or also known as lemon balm, is a herbal medicine often used as an antibacterial agent and mild sedative. That’s right – a mild sedative! Various studies have even evaluated its efficacy, safety, and mood effect with patients suffering from mild to moderate Alzheimer’s disease.

In fact, M. officinalis has been used in traditional medicine for various illnesses – ranging from menstrual problems, hypertension, migraines, vertigo, depression, eczema – the list literally goes on!

But the most important aspect of this ingredient is its effect on our skin. In 2015, a study designed gels with lemon balm extract and assessed its quality – as well as its effect of rosmarinic acid (RA, which is one of the main phenolic acids in M. Officinalis) on skin cells in normal conditions and under oxidative stress. Overall, the results of the study showed that RA, depending on the concentration, reduced the amount of intracellular ROS (Reactive Oxygen Species – molecules generated by UV rays) in human cells and enhanced cell viability under oxidative stress.

A study in 2016 provided additional supportive information and evaluated the protective effects of lemon balm extract (LBE) and its main phenolic compound rosmarinic acid (RA) against UVB-induced damage in human keratinocytes. The study concluded that LBE may be considered as a candidate for the development of oral/topical photoprotective ingredients against UVB-induced skin damage.

In other words – it protected against the general environmental damages of photoaging.

Bottom line: Essential oil packed with phenolic acid ingredients. Strong antioxidant capacity.

Where would aromatherapy be without the smell of the rose? For centuries, humans have studied every aspect of this plentiful flower. The rose and its petals are often a symbol of love. In a 2007 study, 95 macro and micro components in the essential oil of Rosa Damascena (R. damascena) from central Iran. The identified components were β-citronellol (14.5-47.5%), nonadecane (10.5-40.5%), geraniol (5.5-18%), and nerol and kaempferol were the major components of the oil.

In addition, some of the medicinal effects that stem (pun intended) from the R. damascena are partly attributed to their abundance of phenolics compounds – resulting as strong antioxidants, free-radical scavengers, and exhibiting anti-inflammatory/anti-mutagenic/anti-depressant capabilities.

Bottom line: Essential oil packed with phenolic compounds. Strong antioxidant capacity.

The grape seed hydroethanolic extract is rich in polyphenols (proanthocyanidins).

To put it simply – it contains a strong amount of antioxidant capacity compared to Vitamin C and E – which is often a standard in the world of antioxidant-packed vitamins. In 2004, oral administration of a proanthocyanidin-rich extract from grape seeds for one year showed to effectively reduce the hyperpigmentation of women with chloasma (a form of dark discoloration often occurring during pregnancy).

Bottom line: Strong antioxidant capacity-rich in polyphenols.

Tocopherol is the most prevalent form of Vitamin E in plant seeds and products derived from corn, sesame seed, sunflower, olive oils, and a plethora of nuts.

Most of the tocopherols are reported to function in cosmetics as antioxidants or skin conditioning agents. In fact, a 2003 study, evaluated whether the combination of topical vitamin C and E was better for UV protection to the skin than an equivalent concentration of each – alone. The study concluded that each (in their own right) were significant antioxidants in the protection from skin damage. However, the combination of both C and E provided superior synergy against the likes of skin cancer and photoaging. Further detailed information regarding tocopherol as a major lipid-soluble chain-breaking antioxidant of membranes and an important cellular protectant against oxidative damage was provided in a 2014 safety assessment.

It is also interesting to note that in 1999, a study found that topical vitamin E applied on scars provided no benefit (in 90% of the cases) to the cosmetic outcome of scars after skin surgery.  And it even noticed that 33% of the patients treated, developed contact dermatitis to the vitamin E.

Overall, tocopherol is the predominant form of vitamin E in human and animal tissues, and it has a high bioavailability. The safety assessment recognized that tocopherol has some absorption in the UV range. However, it was noted that according to animal and clinical testing, tocopheryl acetate was not photo-allergenic or phototoxic.

Bottom line: Strong antioxidant capacity. Best if formulated with Vitamin C ingredients but may be a potential for dermatitis.

Citral is a well-known contact allergen and a contact irritant generally used as a flavor additive in food and fragrant component in cosmetic products. It is the major component of Cymbopogon citratus (lemongrass oil). In a 2003 study, evaluating citral sensitivities on patients exhibiting hand eczema found positive reactions to patch tests associated with citral.

Side note: A 2002 study in rats evaluated the sedative effects of specific essential components which included citral. The study showed that citral, limonene, and myrcene presented sedative as well as motor relaxant effects. Although only at the highest dose, they also produced a potentiation of the pentobarbital-induced sleeping time in mice, which was more intense in the presence of citral.

And since the Beauty Elixir also includes Melissa officinalis in its list of ingredients, it is interesting to note that a study in 2003 evaluated the relaxant effects of M.officinalis and its main component (citral) on rats. The results showed a significant inhibition on ileum contractions – basically, it was effective as a relaxant.

Yet on a positive note, a number of experimental and clinical studies have shown that citral has favorable anti-inflammatory and antibacterial properties.

Bottom line: Exhibits anti-inflammatory and anti-bacterial properties but may pose irritations with those who suffer from sensitive skin. Citral may provide a relaxing and calming response.

Benzyl benzoate function as a fragrance ingredient, preservative, pH adjuster, viscosity decreasing agent, and solvent in cosmetic products.  Historically speaking, benzyl benzoate was often used for the topical treatment of scabies infestation; a highly contagious form of dermatosis caused by mites.  

Benzyl benzoate has also been known to be used as a pesticide.  

Ugh. Pesticides?! Really?!

But it gets worse, a 2009 study reported that benzyl salicylate, benzyl benzoate and butylphenylmethylpropional were chemical components of cosmetic products which gave oestrogenic responses in a human breast cancer cell line in culture.  The study concluded that further research was necessary but that these compounds may be absorbed through human skin and might enter human breast tissues when topically applied around the breast area.

Bottom line: Benzyl benzoate function as a fragrance ingredient, preservative, pH adjuster, viscosity decreasing agent, and solvent in cosmetic products.  But has been used as a pesticide and could have potential oestrogenic effects.

Monoterpenes are dietary compounds that are found in the essential oils of many fruits, vegetables, and herbs. These compounds are widely used as flavorings and fragrances in both food and cosmetic industries, and as active ingredients in many pharmaceutical products due to their therapeutic and healing properties.

The acyclic monoterpene geraniol naturally occurs in small quantities in geraniums, lemons and other essential oils from medicinal plants and provides an aromatic component in many cosmetic products. In addition to its aroma, geraniol also exhibits anti-oxidative, anti-microbial and anti-inflammatory activity.

Citronellol, an oil-soluble compound also derived from the geranium, has been shown in studies to exhibit anticancer and anti-inflammatory properties, as well as promoting wound healing. In fact, a 2009 randomized, double-blind, placebo-controlled study examined whether the Chinese medicinal herb complex (which composed of a mixture of citronellol and various extracts) improved the immune cell counts of cancer patients receiving chemotherapy and/or radiotherapy. And what they found was that treatment using the citronellol mixture for patients receiving chemotherapy and/or radiotherapy improved the following: their immune function, their ability to fight off cancer, and secondary infections that could compromise their treatment and their health.

Studies have also indicated that geraniol may also suppress tumor growth by targeting the cell cycle and apoptosis (cellular death) pathways.

Overall, both geraniol and citronellol are commonly used fragrance components in consumer products. Whereby both are often listed as fragrance allergens with potential largely determined by effects on the skin once these materials penetrate and elicit an immune response. In fact, a study performed in 2010 evaluated the penetration abilities of geraniol and citronellol when they were used in a typical vehicle in consumer products. And what they found was that geraniol and citronellol have low potentials for skin penetration – offering evidence that these two ingredients induce allergenicity.

Bottom line: Citronellol and geraniol are fragrance ingredients generally used in consumer products – with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, anticancer, and antimicrobial properties. However, if you are particularly sensitive to added fragrance – these ingredients may pose a risk for an allergic response during your experience.

Farnesol, a natural sesquiterpenoid (class of terpenes) occurs in many essential oils, mainly in rose and orange blossoms. Farnesol is a fragrance ingredient widely used in cosmetics, fine fragrances, shampoos, and toilet soaps. Various studies have shown that farnesol affects the growth of a number of bacteria and fungi – pointing to a potential role as an antimicrobial agent.

But what are terpenes?

Terpenes and sesquiterpenes have been suggested as promising non-toxic, non-irritating transdermal penetration enhancers. A 2007 study examined the effect of terpene concentration in skin penetration. Sadly, this study found no direct relationship between terpene concentration and skin penetration rate. Even though this study failed to produce positive results that directly associates terpenes to affecting skin absorption, farnesols may be useful in balancing the skin’s microflora.

Case in point, a two-part study in 2005 1) searched for novel approaches to controlling skin microflora and discovered the beneficial synergy in using xylitol and farnesol and 2) tested whether the application of both compounds on atopic dermatitis for one week would reduce bacterial Staphylococcus aureus (SA). This study provided evidence supporting the idea that xylitol and farnesol cream containing was a useful skin-care agent for atopic dry skin colonized by SA.

Bottom line: Fragrance ingredient with antimicrobial properties.

Limonene, a major constituent of citrus oils, is a monoterpene. As mentioned earlier, monoterpenes are dietary compounds that are found in the essential oils of many fruits, vegetables, and herbs. Monoterpenes are often widely used as flavorings and fragrances in both food and cosmetic industries, and as active ingredients in many pharmaceutical products due to their therapeutic and healing properties.

Limonene has been designated as a chemical with low toxicity based upon lethal dose (LD50) and repeated-dose toxicity studies when administered orally to animals. Yet, various studies have reported skin irritation potential in various products. A 2013 safety and risk assessment was performed evaluating limonene and found that multiple occurrences of skin irritations warrant regulation of this chemical as an ingredient in cosmetics. Ultimately, the assessment found limonene in cosmetics to be safe under the current regulatory guidelines for cosmetics.

However, the conversation was continued (for the most part) in a 2014 study that discussed whether oxidized limonene may actually be the culprit connecting to contact allergens among consumers of cosmetics and personal care products. The study tested 14 patients with occupational contact allergy to limonene – which were patch tested at various concentrations. What was concluded was limonene (often formulated in hand cleansers, cleaning products, and cosmetics) was, in fact, the problem to patients exhibiting contact allergies caused by exposure to products with limonene.

Bottom line: Limonene is a fragrance ingredient generally used in consumer products. However, if you are particularly sensitive to added fragrance – this ingredient may pose a risk for an allergic response during your experience.

And finally linalool, known as a natural plant product and monoterpene (similar to limonene) used in perfumes, cosmetics, and flavoring agents. The ingredient has been known to elicit physiological effects inducing calmness and enhancing sleep. In fact, linalool has been demonstrated to not only activate olfactory receptors but also to modulate various ion channel receptor potentials in the central nervous system – strongly involved in sedative, anxiolytic and calming processes.

And like limonene, linalool possesses skin irritating potential and sensitivities as a contact allergen. A 2014 review also identified linalool as an absorption promoter in topical preparations – due to its terpene status. The review indicated that linalool promoted percutaneous penetration of other therapeutic agents by increasing the permeability of the skin for improved absorption.

Bottom line: Linalool is a fragrance ingredient generally used in consumer products with indications to as an absorption promoter. However, if you are particularly sensitive to added fragrance – this ingredient may pose a risk for an allergic response during your experience.