Sunday Riley Luna Sleeping Night Oil Review

Avocado oil is an ideal ingredient in skincare formulations intended for dry, dehydrated, damaged and mature skin and in applications intended for the treatment of a number of skincare conditions.  In a study analyzing avocado oil by gas chromatography, presence of oleic fatty acid (47.20%), palmitic (23.66%), linoleic (13.46%) docosadienoic (8.88%), palmitoleic (3.58%), linolenic (1.60%), eicosenoic (1.29%), and myristic acids (0.33%) was found.  The study concluded that used in its natural form or in pharmaceutical formulations for topical use, avocado oil can “promote increased collagen synthesis and decreased numbers of inflammatory cells during the wound-healing process”.

A 1991 study, evaluated the effects of various avocado oils on collagen metabolism in skin whereby growing rats were fed diets containing 10% (w/w) of the tested oils. What was discovered was that rats fed with unrefined avocado oil showed significant increases in soluble collagen content in the skin.

Bottom line: Avocado oil is a carrier oil and is often used in collaboration with other essential oils to carry prominent micronutrients and antioxidants deeper into the skin – such as vitamins A, E, and D.

The grape seed hydroethanolic extract is rich in polyphenols (proanthocyanidins).

To put it simply – it contains a strong amount of antioxidant capacity compared to Vitamin C and E – which is often a standard in the world of antioxidant-packed vitamins. In 2004, oral administration of a proanthocyanidin-rich extract from grape seeds for one year showed to effectively reduce the hyperpigmentation of women with chloasma (a form of dark discoloration often occurring during pregnancy).

Bottom line: Strong antioxidant capacity; rich in polyphenols.

It is truly no mystery that blackberries are a rich source of natural antioxidants as they contain high levels of phenols, flavonols, and anthocyanins and are therefore well-reputed scavengers and inhibitors of free radicals. In 2008, blackberries were evaluated by high-performance liquid chromatography (HPLC) to identify ellagitannins (a class of phenolics), which have been recognized for various health benefits – think pomegranate fruits and juices. Yum! The 2008 study determined and confirmed the presence of various forms of ellagitannins. In addition to ellagitannins, blackberries also rank highly among fruits for antioxidant strength, particularly due to their high contents of phenolic compounds, such as ellagic acid, tannins, quercetin, gallic acid, anthocyanins, and cyanidins.

Also, in a review published in 2014, antioxidant components (more specifically phenolics) contributed positively to skin health by inhibiting the oxidative damage linked with the formation of wrinkles and other skin disorders like hyperproliferation and skin dryness.

Bottom line: Strong antioxidant capacity; rich in polyphenols.

Ah, the chia seed. If you haven’t been living under a rock these past few years – then you have certainly come across some aspect of “chia seed marketing”.  It’s in our foods, it has been studied extensively, and it has now found its way into our cosmetic and skincare items.

Chia seed is composed of protein (15–25%), fats (30– 33%), carbohydrates (26–41%), high dietary fiber (18–30%), ash (4-5%), minerals, vitamins, and dry matter (90–93%). But more importantly, it contains a high amount of antioxidant capacity; rich in omegas (omega-3, 6, 9).

Bottom line: Strong antioxidant capacity; rich in omegas.

Dimethyl isosorbide (DI) is a penetration modifier. Based on the Luna ingredient list – which lists this ingredient as the following – it can be concluded that DI’s purpose is to provide more efficient penetration of the retinol product: Dimethyl Isosorbide (and) Hydroxypinacolone Retinoate.

In a 2008 study, dimethyl isosorbide was one of two penetration modifiers examined. The study showed that 10% DMI did not significantly enhance the skin permeation of various lipophilic active ingredients [such as hydroquinone (HQ) and salicylic acid (SA)] or the uptake into the skin.

But this doesn’t mean the DI was not effective. In fact, in a patent filed in 1997, dimethyl isosorbide was documented to have an ability to enhance the skin lightening, antioxidant and other skin properties of ferulic acid and its esters.

Plus, in 2005, a randomized, placebo-controlled, double-blind clinical trial study in postmenopausal women evaluated the efficacy of a retinol and dimethylenolamine combination in the treatment of chronological aging. The study demonstrated rapid and significant improvements in the appearance of aging skin with daily application of the retinol and dimethylenolamine combination. So go figure!

Bottom line: Allows ingredients to penetrate more effectively.

Whether you are of the traditional camp that has used retinols in your skincare repertoire, enduring its burning side effects all the while patiently waiting for its touted glowing results — you should have to have been mildly curious at the new kid in town that has quickly become a star player in the “anti-aging” multi-billion dollar business.  However, it is a fact that topical retinols are proven to fight against anti-aging since its introduction to the beauty and scientific industries – over 20 years ago.

I’m talking about hydroxypinacolone retinoate (or HPR), a cosmetic grade ester of all-trans retinoic acid.  This sibling within the retinoid family (which is a class of synthetic derivatives of vitamin A — often synonymous with tretinoin) binds to retinoid receptors which initialize a host of skin promoting benefits when activated.  This new novel retinoid formulation promotes anti-aging applications with low irritation in its concentrated stable form.

A 2015 study, used a fixed combination of 0.1% hydroxypinacolone retinoate, 1% retinol in glycospheres (retinol that was encapsulated) and 2% papain (enzyme extracted from papayas) in glycospheres to reduce the incidence of irritant contact dermatitis caused by topical retinoids, without compromising their efficacy. The study demonstrated the fixed combination was an effective and safe option for the treatment of comedonal-papular, a mild to moderate acne of the face.

And in a 2014 study, efficacy and safety of a new combination of retinoids in the improvement of melasma (hyperpigmentation due to hormonal changes and sun exposure) were evaluated in a double-blind, vehicle-controlled, and randomized study of 30 patients.   The product was applied on one side of the face and the vehicle (placebo) on the other, twice daily for 3 months. The study found, 3 months of retinoid treatment was significant vs. the vehicle side, reaching an improvement of 70%, which is comparable to the percentage of the improvement described with hydroquinone.

But do we know the actual percentage of HPR which exists within this formulation?  At present, the exact percentage is unknown based on Sunday Riley’s packaging and product description. However, the recommended concentration level for retinol is ≤2%.  So, are we to assume this is the case?  Again, this is under the assumption that the folks at Sunday Riley observe these recommended levels.

Bottom line: Vitamin A derivative with proven anti-aging, anti-acne, and anti-hyperpigmentation capabilities.

Spotted: According to Sephora’s Sunday Riley Luna ingredient list, there is another spelling error with blue tansy oil noted as Tanecetum annuum as opposed to the correct spelling, which I have provided in the above header. Yikes!

Ah, the infamous blue tansy oil or also known as Moroccan Chamomile. A virtual unknown. Yet, suddenly a star in the skincare/beauty world as of late. And yet, when you do a good amount of research on this aquamarine colored oil – you will realize how EXPENSIVE a small amount of this stuff can be! Maybe there’s a reason for its mystery as an ingredient.  It is often categorized to function as a skin-conditioning agent in cosmetic formulations.

However, current or ongoing studies regarding blue tansy were virtually hard to find. The only relevant information concerning the ingredient itself was a 2010 study examining the antimicrobial activity of Moroccan (blue tansy) and various other oils. Results indicate that it does provide antimicrobial capabilities.  

Nevertheless, blue tansy is a plant generally found in the northwestern part of Morocco. A paper published in 1999, examined the chemical composition of the blue tansy oil. It determined that it was composed of the following: chamazulene (an azulene derivative which is what essentially gives it that blue-marine color), which was a major component of the oil at 28%, b-pinene (3.1%) and myrcene (4.4%).

It is this azulene which seems to be of particular interest to the folks at Sunday Riley and the key to the Luna Sleeping Night Oil. Azulene is an essential oil derived from German chamomile plant, Matricaria chamomile.  More specifically, azulene has been shown to be an anti-inflammatory, anti-spasmodic, and anti-microbial agent.  However, it is important to note that azulene anti-inflammatory properties have not been studied extensively with only a handful of academic papers reported and are not easily available.  And one other thing to note, in clinical studies, some patients showed allergic reactions to azulene.

I’ve heard through the beauty grapevine of this ingredient having effects of “minimizing pores”.  Yet, I couldn’t find any solid research or even valid evidence supporting this exact claim. So until there is more research done — blue tansy is just another antimicrobial fighting ingredient with anti-inflammatory capabilities.  And although, anti-inflammatory properties may lead to soothing and calming capabilities; again, we did not find any direct data to correlate these specific claims.

Bottom line: No real data supporting skincare benefits such as its soothing abilities. However, it has been shown to provide antimicrobial, anti-inflammatory properties, and often functions as a skin-conditioning agent in cosmetic formulations.

At some point in your life, you’ve had a relaxing cup of chamomile tea. But did you know that chamomile itself has amazing anti-inflammatory and antioxidant properties beyond your typical use for tea?

The ability of chamomile to reduce inflammation is one of its most highly prized features due to the presence of flavonoids. In fact, according to a paper published in 2002, chamomilla recutita (matricaria) flower oil contains anti-inflammatory and spasmolytic sesquiterpene lactones such as α-bisabolol, blue chamazulene (weaker anti-inflammatory effect), farnesene, polyenes, and several flavonoids.

To beat down the benefit of flavonoids, a study in human volunteers demonstrated that chamomile flavonoids and essential oils penetrate below the skin surface into the deeper skin layers.

But ultimately chamomilla recutita (matricaria) flower oil, functions mostly as fragrance ingredients and skin conditioning agents in cosmetic products.

Bottom line: Strong antioxidant capacity and anti-inflammatory effect.

Did you know that neroli oil contains analgesic and anti-inflammatory properties? Well, now you do! In a 2015 study, neroli oil was investigated in mice and rats. The study suggested that neroli possessed biologically active constituent(s) that had significant activity against acute and chronic inflammation. In addition, the study identified neroli’s major components via gas chromatography-mass spectrometry as: linalool (28.5 %), linalyl acetate (19.6 %), nerolidol (9.1 %), E,E-farnesol (9.1 %), α-terpineol (4.9 %), and limonene (4.6 %), which may be responsible for these observed activities.

Also, various studies have suggested that citrus aurantium oils used for aromatherapy purposes showed a decrease in anxiety and stress levels. So whether these citrus oils are simply added to calm your anxious senses and mind as part of the skincare treatment process – we will never know. But the fragrance and aroma offers such a relaxing component – don’t you think?

Bottom line: Used for its aroma and stress/anxiety reduction. Strong anti-inflammatory effect.

Recently, the methanolic extract of the flower buds of ylang ylang was found to exhibit an inhibitory effect against melanogenesis (the process of melanin production and distribution). In fact, the study concluded that the biological effect of the methanolic extract from ylang ylang was much stronger than that of the reference compound, arbutin (often a staple ingredient in skin lightening and hyperpigmentation reducing products made popular in Asia).

In addition, multiple assays have been performed to evaluate ylang ylang’s antioxidant properties with results indicating that all the tests showed that it is, in fact, a decent source of antioxidant.

Some studies have even touted ylang ylang use in aromatherapy has been shown to normalize sebum secretion and is considered to be an aphrodisiac. Whether this may be one of the reasons for the inclusion of this ingredient – we shall never truly know.  But normalizing sebum secretion helps in reducing the appearance of pore size!

Bottom line: Ylang ylang is mainly used for fragrance purposes.  May be used to reduce the appearance of pores.

Spotted (again): First off, while reviewing the Sunday Riley Luna ingredients list taken from Sephora – I noticed one random pet peeve – and that is the misspelling of this particular ingredient. If it’s one thing I’m fairly critically about – it’s correct spelling and labeling of product ingredients. If you can’t get that correct – how am I supposed to respect the validity of your formulations? But is this a Sephora or Sunday Riley mistake? Ok, rant done!

Anyways, Sunday Riley Luna (via Sephora) included this ingredient as “Vetivera zizanoides (Vetiver oil)” – to which I included the correct spelling up top.

A study conducted in 2014, evaluated the effect of vetiveria zizanioides essential oil on melanogenesis (the process of melanin production and distribution) and whether it could be achieved by the suppression of cellular tyrosinase (a key enzyme that acts in the initial step of melanin biosynthesis) expression. The study concluded that vetiveria zizanioides had a strong capacity to inhibit lipid peroxidation – which is often used as an indicator for hyperpigmentation issues and skin lightening effects.

Bottom line: Strong capacity to suppress hyperpigmentation and has skin lightening effects.

According to a comprehensive analysis of seed oils performed in 1992, Sunflower oil contains high levels of vitamins A, D, and K – with crude sunflower oil having the highest content of vitamin E in the form of α-tocopherol amongst oils.

In a randomized study in 2013, sunflower seed oil preserved stratum corneum integrity (that’s skin talk) – and improved hydration in volunteers who applied it topically after 4 weeks. Oddly enough, the study also found that in contrast; topical treatment of sunflower oil WITH olive oil significantly damaged the skin barrier, and therefore had the potential to promote the development of and exacerbate existing atopic dermatitis. Yikes!

Mental note: Make sure to NOT use anything that has BOTH olive oil and sunflower oil in its ingredient list.

And finally, helianthus annuus sunflower seed oil has a fatty acid composition of the following according to the CIR panel:

• Oleic acid (14.7-37.2%), an omega-9 fatty acid
• Linoleic acid (51.5-73.5%), an omega-6 fatty acid
• Linolenic acid (0.3%), an omega-3 fatty acid
• Palmitic acid (5-7.2%)
• Stearic acid (2-6.5%)

Bottom line: High vitamin E content for improved hydration.

We all are familiar with rosemary for its aromatic properties in foods. But did you know – it has various analgesic and antibacterial properties? More specifically, rosemary oil has been effective against bacterium acne. In 2007, a study found that there were significant changes in morphology and size of Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) in response to rosemary oil treatment.

This sounds promising, right? Acne sufferers from all over the world rejoice!

Well before you start singing its praises – a study in 2005 reported a rare case of allergic contact dermatitis due to a cleansing gel containing rosemary extract (0.1% distilled water). So if you suffer from sensitive skin outbreaks – this may be the one reason NOT to partake in the Luna craze.

Bottom line: Used for its aroma and antibacterial properties for acne treatment.

Just dyes/pigments – nothing much to discuss here.  Is approved per the Personal Care Products Council and the FDA in the US.