The Ordinary Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA Review

There’s really no need to go into great detail about this very basic component. Oddly enough, applying massive amounts of water onto the skin surface doesn’t actually hydrate – contrary to popular belief. It is that magical balance when hydrating components seeps under the skin’s surface is when we start to see benefits.

The other important thing to note is – when a product’s main component tends to be water – there can be issues of bacterial contamination or growth. Unless there is some ingredient that may counter this within the formulation stability – which there is: a chelating agent.

Bottom line: Adding this is neither here nor there. But is it mainly JUST water with a tiny bit of actual ingredient? Who knows.

The Ordinary states that their product contains approximately 2% of alpha arbutin. But what IS alpha arbutin? Alpha-arbutin was synthesized from hydroquinone (HQ, used as a skin-lightening cosmetic ingredient) and starch using glucoside synthetase (GSase). Therefore, alpha-arbutin, a glycoside of HQ (4-hydroxyphenyl alpha-D-glucopyranoside), is used worldwide as a skin-lightening agent. This has been a long-time ingredient of interest in the Asian beauty industry and has slowly matriculated into Western skincare regimes.

In a 2010 study, inhibitory effects of alpha-arbutin on melanogenesis (the process of melanin production and distribution) in cultured human melanoma cells. The study noticed that melanin synthesis in cells treated with alpha-arbutin at 0.5 mM decreased to 76% of that in non-treated cells. What does this all mean? It means that cell viability (which we want) did not decrease and melanin synthesis (which we don’t want) was reduced by 40%. The result? Alpha-arbutin is an effective and safe ingredient for skin lightening.

Music to my ears!

Hyperpigmentation, age spots, and acne scars: be very scared!

Bottom line: Key ingredient to fight hyperpigmentation and discoloration.

This is essentially a polymer – likely used in thickening the formulation of the product. Other than offering a smooth velvety finish in terms of a stabilizer – it does not provide any additional benefit to the overall treatment of the product itself.

Bottom line: Just a stabilizer to thicken the product. Does not offer any overall benefit with respect to claims.

Ah, hyaluronic acid (HA) or hyaluronan is the key molecule involved in skin moisture.  In this case, sodium hyaluronate which is the sodium salt of hyaluronan.  Hyaluronic acid is naturally found in our biological makeup. More specifically, skin HA accounts for most of 50% of total body HA. That’s a lot! And so, it is a key molecule in the fight against aging. And in the last five years (or longer) has exploded in its use and marketing capacity.

Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan (GAG) with a unique capacity to bind and retain water molecules.  Indeed, various studies suggest HA homeostasis exhibits a distinct profile in intrinsic (internal) skin aging, which is totally different from that in extrinsic (external) skin aging.

It’s important to note that a lot of cosmetic and beauty brands often state that hyaluronic acid is able to hold 1000 times its weight in water.  And while I scanned all avenues of scientific publications for this very information, I found nothing that credibly links this exact number to a particular study or research-based calculation.

In fact, what I did find in my scientific hunt, was that researchers have determined that approximately one (1) gram of hyaluronic acid can hold up to six (6) liters of water. 

Does size matter with hyaluronic acid?

HA exists as a high molecular weight (HMW) molecule (or HMW HA) with a large molecular volume and low molecular weight (LMW) molecule (or LMW HA) with a low molecular volume.

The average molecular weight of the HMW HA molecule is 1000–8000 kilodaltons (kDa).  As the molecule increases in polysaccharide chain length, so does the volume and its overall weight. So when we look at the low end of the size range, LMW HA is fragmented (or broken down) hyaluronic acid and is often identified as sodium hyaluronate (or the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid).  Of course, there are variations in names and descriptors from suppliers/vendors based on hyaluronic acid size.  So keep that in mind.

So how is hydrolyzed sodium hyaluronate (HSF) different?

Well for starters, HSF is the cousin of HA. In fact, it is actually considered as “miniHA™” with a molecular weight of 3-10 kDa compared to HA (1,000 kDa). Based on the information and results from the manufacturer, in vitro, and in vivo showed that miniHA™ has good effects in deep moisturizing, repairing cells damaged by UV, and scavenging free radicals. Anti-aging efficacy of this product was evaluated through randomized, double-blind and placebo-controlled study.  After applying miniHA™ cream 15d, 30d and 60d, the skin hydration of volunteers increased 5.8%, 7.6%, and 12.4% respectively, the skin elasticity of volunteers increased 4.6%, 5.2%, and 6.1% respectively, the skin wrinkle depth of volunteers decreased 16.0%, 20.3%, and 25.6%.

Either way, if a product is formulated with hyaluronic acid, and you are looking for a power-packed hydrating ingredient – it’s generally a good thing that this guy is on the label.  There are a myriad of studies that tout its skin-improving benefits:

• Topical application of HA has been seen in reducing wrinkles.
• A 2014 study, using nano (really, really, really small) hyaluronic acid demonstrated a significant benefit in decreasing the depth of wrinkles (up to 40%), and skin hydration (up to 96%) and skin firmness and elasticity were significantly enhanced (up to 55%) at the end of eight weeks.

Sold! You don’t have to tell me twice that this is an amazing ingredient to add to my skincare arsenal. There is definitely a positive synergy that occurs when incorporating HA. But, as with any ingredient, concentration levels and actual % amount to the overall formulation is always critical.

Hyaluronic acid has been deemed safe by the CIR panel at concentrations up to 2% as a skin conditioning agent in cosmetics. 

Bottom line: Skin conditioning and humectant ingredient with studies demonstrating an increase in skin hydration, wrinkle reduction, and overall skin firmness.

Propanediol is corn-derived and exists in two forms: 1,2-propanediol (propylene glycol or PPG) and 1,3-propanediol. This ingredient is often used as a moisturizing agent or humectant. Since the ingredient list does not mention which particular form is used within the formulation – I’ll go ahead and supply information for both.

First, 1,2-propanediol (propylene glycol) has been flagged for a number of safety issues – with the most common being skin irritations and even carcinogenic but somehow does not fall under the scary toxic category of no-nos.

Similarly, its other form, 1,3-propanediol, has been flagged for a number of skin irritating issues yet is still frequently used within the industry.

However, both ingredients can be used safely at low dosage/concentration levels. But since the list does not indicate the actual concentration of propanediol (nor its actual true form) – I would keep this in mind in terms of caution.

Bottom line: Moisturizing agent but may cause skin irritations depending on the concentration level – which is unknown.

PPG-26-Buteth-26 is widely used as an emulsifying ingredient. It is often used to condition dry, damaged skin. This form of propylene glycol has been shown to (similarly to propanediol) cause some skin irritations. More specifically, a solubilizing system containing PPG-26-Buteth-26 (concentration not stated) was classified as a mild skin irritant in New Zealand White rabbits.

However, based on clinical testing, PPG-26-Buteth-26 produced no skin irritation or sensitization – with major skin irritations stemming from large molecular weight forms of this molecule. So for now, we will keep a very close watch of the use of this ingredient.

Bottom line: Emulsifying ingredient known to “condition” dry skin. However, due to possible skin irritations – the bad seems to outweigh the good in this one.

PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil (trade name: Cremophor® RH 40, manufactured by BASF) belongs to a PEGylated group which function primarily as surfactants (emulsifying or solubilizing agents) in cosmetic formulations.

A study of the development of a topical gel for the treatment of acne vulgaris reports that various types of PEGs are hydrophilic penetration enhancers and are used in topical dermatological preparations. What this essentially means is – that this form of PEG is water-loving. Drawing moisture in.

Likewise, a study evaluating skin irritation in mice with 20% PEG-40 Hydrogenated Castor Oil showed no signs of irritation were observed in the mice. Concluding that the formulation containing 20% PEG-40 hydrogenated castor oil would probably not irritate human skin.

Bottom line: Another emulsifying ingredient known to draw moisture in.

What can I say about lactic acid (or alpha hydroxyl acid, AHA)? There is an abundance of information circulating around the blogosphere and academic arena with respect to lactic acid. Some sing its praises – while others demonize its various problems. What we know about AHAs, is this – it has been shown to moisturize the skin, make it smoother and create less wrinkled skin surfaces.

Whichever camp you subscribe to – one thing is fairly clear about using any lactic acid type product. And that is simply – how much are you getting? Concentration is important with this baby. A study in 1996 evaluated alpha-hydroxy acid products, containing low (5%) and high (12%) concentrations to determine whether concentration levels modulate changes in both the epidermis and dermis. What was observed was that cosmetic benefits from the use of alpha-hydroxy acids at 5% lactic acid modulated surface and epidermal changes. Whereas, 12% lactic acid influenced both the epidermis and the dermis layers.

To drive the point home, lactic acid concentration matters. However, we do not know the actual concentration amount of lactic acid formulated in the Alpha Arbutin 2% + HA product.

Bottom line: Lactic acid helps with skin moisture and creating smooth, less wrinkled skin.

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is a chelating agent. A what – you ask?! Chelating agents often play a role in stabilizing a product from metallic impurities. Metallic impurities can come from many different sources, primarily from the ingredients themselves. Often times, impurities are naturally derived, such as water in this case. Chelating agents prevent deterioration and overall oxidation by binding and inactivating metallic ions.

This specific chelating agent is biodegradable and is selective towards problematic transition metals such as copper and iron compared to calcium and magnesium.

Bottom line: Chelating agent used in stabilizing a formulation with metallic impurities (be it naturally derived) – in this case, it would likely be water.

Also known as Diethylene Glycol Monoethyl Ether, ethoxydiglycol is often used as a solvent in skincare products in order to dilute a thick formulation.

Bottom line: Decreasing agent used to dilute the viscosity (or thickness) of a potential solution. Not useful in the overall effect toward its claims.

Phenoxyethanol is a preservative used to inhibit the growth of microorganisms in cosmetic products. Generally, a product formulated with high water content (like in this situation) is prone to growth of microorganisms unless certain precautions or ingredients are added to thwart such problems.

However, overuse of preservatives within a formulation has also been shown to lead to increased incidences of contact allergy. Therefore, adding these ingredients poses the question of whether it is truly worth it.

Current concentration use in cosmetics based on a CIR assessment has indicated that phenoxyethanol may be used at a range of ≤ 0.0002% to 1%.

Bottom line: A preservative used to thwart the growth of microorganisms in high water content formulated products. No real benefit to claims with potential for skin irritations.

Another ingredient functioning as a biocide (preservative) in cosmetic products. In a 2014 safety assessment, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (Panel) noted that chlorphenesin was well absorbed when applied to the skin of rats; however, any safety concern was minimized because available data demonstrated an absence of toxicity. However, the Panel concluded that chlorphenesin is safe in the present practices of use and concentration.

However, there have been cases reporting patients exhibiting dermatitis, facial eczema, and even burning after applying products formulated with chlorphenesin.

Bottom line: A preservative used to thwart the growth of microorganisms in high water content formulated products. But no real benefit to claims with potential for skin irritations.