The Science Behind That Jennifer Lopez (J.Lo) Glow

Product:  Lancer The Method: Cleanse (Normal-Combination Skin)

Ingredient(s):  Water (Aqua), Sodium Laureth Sulfate, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, PPG-2 Hydroxyethyl Cocamide, Glycerin, Glycol Distearate, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Yeast Amino Acids, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Oil, Hydrolyzed Rice Protein, Trehalose, Sodium PCA, Salicylic Acid, Inositol, Taurine, Urea, Betaine, Panthenol, Polyquaternium-4, Disodium EDTA, Citric Acid, Pentylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Methylisothiazolinone, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Potassium Sorbate, Fragrance (Parfum), Linalool.

Claims: 

A hydrating pH-balanced cleanser that gently removes makeup, dirt and oil for a fresh, healthy-looking complexion.

Sodium PCA:  Helps ensure that the product is pH balanced for optimal benefits to the skin.

Rice protein:  Moisturizes and sets the foundation for Nourish.

Proprietary Amino Acid Compound:  Boosts skins hydration.

Transparency:

Bottom Line:  The product claims for the following identified ingredients were substantiated: sodium pca and rice protein, albeit very very general. 

However, we were unable to substantiate the claims for the proprietary amino acid compound as the actual composition remains unknown.  

Product:  Lancer The Method: Cleanse (Oily-Congested Skin)

Ingredient(s):  Water, Sodium C14-16 Olefin Sulfonate, Acrylates Copolymer, Glycerin, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Mannitol, Jojoba Beads, Syringa Vulgaris (Lilac) Leaf Cell Culture Extract, Mentha Piperita (Peppermint) Oil, Melaleuca Alternifolia (Tea Tree) Leaf Oil, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Sodium PCA, Cellulose, Salicylic Acid, Disodium Cocoamphodiacetate, Panthenol, Niacinamide, Dextrin, Maltodextrin, Amylopectin, Disodium EDTA, Sodium Hydroxide, Polydextrose, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Methylisothiazolinone, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Fragrance, Limonene, Iron Oxides (CI 77492).

Claims: 

A refreshing, hydrating cleanser for oily, congested and blemish-prone skin that gently exfoliates while removing makeup, dirt and oil for a fresh, healthy-looking complexion.

Jojoba Beads and Oil-Minimizing Extracts:  Thoroughly sweep away impurities and surface dirt without stripping the skin of its natural moisture.

BHA and Tea Tree Oil:  Remove build up of dead skin cells for smoother-looking skin.

Antioxidant-Rich Lilac Stem Cells:  Refine the appearance of pores, leaving the skin feeling exceptionally clean, soft and refreshed.

Transparency:

Bottom Line:  The product claims for the following identified ingredients were substantiated: jojoba, BHA (salicylic acid), and tea tree oil. 

But what about lilac stem cells?  It’s important to note that syringa vulgaris (lilac) leaf cell culture extract alone is known to be a skin-conditioning and anti-inflammatory agent.  Currently, there is one trademarked product (Dermasyr-10 Verbascoside Concentrate from Lilac Plant Stem Cells), which is maltodextrin (and) syringa vulgaris leaf cell culture extract.  Syringa vulgaris cell culture extract is titrated at 10% of verbascoside with excipients (maltodextrins).

This Croda manufactured trademarked product is known for the following:

• Helps reduce the skin blemishes and the inflammatory hyper-pigmentation, controls the skin redness and balances of seborrhea.
• Reduces surface acne and excess sebum production that compound acne proliferation.

We already know that pore size may be correlated with increased sebum production based on a 2006 study.   Therefore, if the trademarked lilac stem cell ingredient reduces excess sebum production, it would be fair to say that their claims would be substantiated.  However, since public access to such data is limited or unavailable, we were unable to accurately substantiate the claims to clinical research results or a specific clinical study.

Product:  Lancer The Method: Cleanse (Sensitive-Dehydrated Skin)

Ingredient(s):  Water (Aqua), Sodium Cocoyl Isethionate, Stearic Acid, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Cocamidopropyl Betaine, Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Avena Sativa (Oat) Kernel Extract, Lavandula Hybrida Oil, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Sodium PCA, Panthenol, Potassium Sorbate, Xanthan Gum, Caprylyl Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Methylisothiazolinone, Methylchloroisothiazolinone, Linalool.

Claims: 

A sulfate-free, ultra-hydrating cleanser for sensitive and dehydrated skin that gently removes makeup, dirt and oil for a fresh, healthy-looking complexion.

Ulta-Mild, Cleansing Compounds:  Gently cleanse skin, lifting away debris without disrupting the skin’s natural moisture barrier.

Oat Extract:  Visibly reduces the appearance of redness and soothes skin.

Licorice Root Extract:  Has a calming benefit.

Transparency:

Bottom Line:  The product claims for the following identified ingredients were substantiated: oat extract and licorice root extract, albeit very very general. 

However, we were unable to substantiate the claims for the “ulta-mild, cleansing compounds” as the actual composition remains unknown.  

Product:  Lancer Eye Contour Lifting Cream

Ingredient(s):  Water / Aqua /Eau, Glycerin, Isopropyl Isostearate , Synthetic Fluorphlogopite, Stearic Acid , Bis-Diglyceryl Polyacyladipate-2, Caprylic/Capric/Myristic/Stearic Triglyceride , Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter , Propanediol, Pentaerythrityl Tetraisostearate, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Dimethicone, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetearyl Alcohol, Squalane, Sodium PCA, Phospholipids, Hyaluronic Acid, Hexapeptide-48 HCl, Saccharomyces Cerevisiae Extract, Medicago Sativa (Alfalfa) Seed Extract, Hydrolyzed Lupine Protein, Glycine Soja (Soybean) Extract, Steareth-20, N-Hydroxysuccinimide, Palmitoyl Tripeptide-1, Palmitoyl Tetrapeptide-7, Chrysin, Diamond Powder, Cyclopentasiloxane, Cyclohexasiloxane, Panthenol, Caffeine, Beeswax (Cera Alba / Cire d’abeille), Ceteareth-20, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Alaria Esculenta Extract, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Aminomethyl Propanol, Citric Acid, Chlorhexidine Digluconate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Citrate, Biotin, Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Xanthan Gum, Phenoxyethanol, Chlorphenesin, Caprylyl Glycol.

Claims: 

A triple-action eye treatment and hydrator that targets multiple eye area concerns for a brighter, more youthful appearance. This emollient blend of time-released Hyaluronic Acid and Shea Butter provides a cushion of rich and lasting moisture. Powered by Dr. Lancer’s proprietary Multi-Dimensional Complete Pro-Youth Complex to improve the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, puffiness and dark circles and loss of elasticity. Finished with Diamond Powder and minerals for a photoluminescence to subtly illuminate, creating a youthful glow.

Key Ingredients + Benefits

Lines & Wrinkles:  Alfalfa Seed Extract and Lupine Protein, rich in oligopeptides and oligosaccharides, targets problem areas by reducing the appearance of under eye bags and wrinkles.

Dark Circles:  Peptide blend & Yeast Extract reduce the appearance of dark circles and improves uniformity of tone between the dark circles and surrounding skin

Puffiness:  Caffeine helps reduce the look of eye area puffiness

Sagging:  Winged Kelp helps improve the look of skin’s firmness and elasticity

Dullness:   Diamond Powder provides photoluminescence to diminish the appearance of dark shadows, fine lines and wrinkles

Dehydration:  Hyaluronic Acid & Shea Butter provide a rich hydration to the delicate eye area

Reduce the Appearance of Eye Bags and Wrinkles

Lancer®️ Eye Contour Lifting Cream contains Dr. Lancer’s proprietary blend of caffeine-based agents and light diffusers to help skin look firmer and balance hydration levels, which minimizes the appearance of fine lines and puffiness. Lancer®️ Eye Contour Lifting Cream also contains chrysin, a plant flavonoid that helps to reduce the appearance of dark circles, while palmitoyl oligopeptide and hexapeptide provide anti-aging benefits to the eye area.

Transparency:

Bottom Line:  The product claims for the following identified ingredients were substantiated:  caffeine, winged kelp (alaria esculenta extract), hyaluronic acid, and shea butter. 

But what about alfalfa seed extract, lupine protein, peptide blend (hexapeptide-48 HCl, palmitoyl tripeptide-1, palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7), yeast extract, and diamond powder?  

Ok, let’s unravel these ingredient claims.

Well, palmitoyl peptides (such as palmitoyl tripeptide-1 and palmitoyl tetrapeptide-7) and medicago sativa extracts have been shown in vitro to lead to deposition of collagen 1 in model skin systems and the extract of white lupin (such as lupine protein) has been shown to inhibit MMP-1.  And as we said before; MMP-1 are enzymes that play a role in various destructive processes such as inflammation, tumor invasion, and skin aging.

Then there is the claim that a peptide blend and yeast extract may help in reducing the appearance of dark circles.  First, unless there is a specific clinical study relating to data to substantiate these claims – I call bullshit. Outside of the use of fillers, lasers, and a specific list of ingredients that have been scientifically proven to “reduce the appearance of dark circles” (such as alpha arbutin, hydroquinone, kojic acid, caffeine, etc), these claims are unsubstantiated.

And the last claim that diamond powder provides photoluminescence to diminish the appearance of dark shadows.  In theory, this makes sense and sounds logical. But frankly, I was not able to substantiate this actual claim with scientific research or studies.

Product:  L’Oreal Revitalift®️ Bright Reveal Brightening Day Moisturizer SPF 30

Ingredient(s):  

Active:  Avobenzone (3%), Homosalate (5%), Octisalate (5%), Octocrylene (7%).

Inactive:  Water, glycerin, dimethicone, silica, PEG-100 stearate, glyceryl stearate, glycolic acid, ammonium polyacryloyldimethyl taurate, stearic acid, phenoxyethanol, palmitic acid, sodium hydroxide, dicaprylyl carbonate, titanium dioxide, mica, steareth-100, phenylethyl resorcinol, caprylyl glycol, fragrance, xanthan gum, dimethicone/vinyl dimethicone crosspolymer, disodium EDTA, tocopherol, sodium hyaluronate, ascorbyl glucoside, pentaerythrityl tetra-di-t-butyl hydroxyhydrocinnamate, retinyl palmitate, limonene, myristic acid, t-butyl alcohol, hexyl cinnamal, linalool, benzyl salicylate, benzyl alcohol, tin oxide, citral.

Claims: 

Brighter, younger looking skin -1 week. Visibly Reduces Wrinkles. Glycolic Acid and Broad Spectrum SPF 30.

RevitaLift®️ Bright Reveal Brightening Day Moisturizer contains broad spectrum SPF 30 with a combination of Glycolic Acid, Vitamin C, and Pro-Retinol to reveal brighter skin, help correct uneven skin tone, and reduce the appearance of wrinkles in just 1 week. This hydrating SPF moisturizer is clinically tested to reveal more radiant skin. Broad Spectrum SPF 30 sunscreen helps protect against the sun’s aging UVA/UVB rays sensitivity that can come from using a product with Glycolic Acid. It visibly brightens, hydrates, and leaves skin feeling softer and appear smoother.

Transparency:

Bottom Line:  The product claims for the following identified inactive ingredients were substantiated:  glycolic acid, ascorbyl glucoside (vitamin C), and retinyl palmitate (pro-retinol).

But what about the active sun protection factor (SPF) ingredients?  Avobenzone (3%), Homosalate (5%), Octisalate (5%), Octocrylene (7%).

Ah, sunscreen.  A thorough examination of sunscreen and what is readily understood scientifically will be left for another post.  But until then, SPF wavelength protection is as follows based on a 2000 study:  UVA1 (long-wavelength) = 340-400 nm, UVA2 (short-wavelength) = 320-340 nm, and UVB = 290-320 nm.

So we reviewed the SPF active ingredients to determine wavelength protection, concentration use limit, and whether the product was formulated within concentration limits:

• Avobenzone (3%):
  • Avobenzone has an absorption maximum of 357 nm.  Protection against UVA1.
  • Concentration use limit (USA):  3%.
  • Formulated within the concentration limit.
• Homosalate (5%):
  • Protection against UVB.
  • Concentration use limit (USA):  15%.
  • Formulated within the concentration limit.
• Octisalate (5%):
  • Protection against UVB.
  • Concentration use limit (USA):  5%.
  • Formulated within the concentration limit.
• Octocrylene (7%):
  • Protection against UVB.  Octocrylene stabilizes the UVA filter avobenzone.
  • Concentration use limit (USA):  10% (used alone) and 7-10% (when used with other sunscreens).
  • Formulated within the concentration limit.

And then there is the “brighter, younger-looking skin in 1-week” claim has no clinical trial number linked or referenced to substantiate the claim.

Product:  Dr. Hauschka Rose Day Cream

Ingredient(s):  Water (Aqua), Arachis Hypogaea (Peanut) Oil, Beeswax (Cera Alba), Althaea Officinalis Root Extract, Rosa Damascena Flower Water, Hypericum Perforatum Flower/Leaf/Stem Extract, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Sorbitan Olivate, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Fragrance (Parfum)*, Citronellol*, Geraniol*, Linalool*, Limonene*, Citral*, Farnesol*, Benzyl Alcohol*, Eugenol*, Rosa Damascena Flower Extract, Rosa Canina Fruit Extract, Copernicia Cerifera (Carnauba) Wax, Zinc Sulfate, Lecithin, Rosa Damascena Flower Wax.

*Component of natural essential oils.

Claims: 

A true classic and the centerpiece of the Dr. Hauschka range, Rose Day Cream captures the strength and softness of the rose to nourish and protect normal, dry and sensitive skin. Calms skin and minimizes the appearance of redness, irritation and couperose.

The rich, luxurious formulation harmonizes oil and moisture gently guiding the skin to a state of comfort, balance and radiance.

Formulation: Precious extracts of rose petals and wild rose hips nurture and balance the skin. Shea butter, rose petal wax and avocado oil protect and help retain moisture. Extracts of marsh mallow and St. John’s wort soothe redness, hydrate and fortify.

Transparency:

Bottom Line:  Overall, the product claims based on the rose specific ingredients were substantiated.  

Product:  Själ Saphir Concentrate

Ingredient(s):  Vitis Vinifera Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Glycerides, Camellia Sinensis Seed Oil, Limnanthes Alba Seed Oil, Macadamia Ternifolia Seed Oil, Tocopherol, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Bidens Pilosa Extract, Elaeis Guineensis Oil, Gossypium Herbaceum Seed Oil, Linum Usitatissimum Seed Oil, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Jasminum Grandiflorum Flower Cera, Helianthus Annuus Seed Extract, Rosmarinus Officinalis Leaf Extract, Chamomilla Recutita Oil, Lavandula Stoechas Extract, Alaria Esculenta Extract, Citrus Aurantium Amara Flower Oil, Oenothera Biennis Oil, Salvia Sclarea Oil, Glycine Soja Oil.

Claims: 

A powerful ‘liquid silk’ treatment oil made with an artisanal blend of rare essential oils and supra-3™ (a proprietary blend of anti-aging bioactives) help to visibly diminish the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles, increase elasticity, plump and revitalize skin. This versatile oil penetrates skin to nourish and protect against environment and aging.  Infused with jasmine absolute grand, neroli, clary sage and enhanced with Himalayan blue sapphires and aquamarines for a sublime energy, scent and texture providing skin with immediate and long term results. Suitable for normal to dry skin.

Benefits:

• Aids in naturally plumping and softening fine lines and deep wrinkles with a proprietary blend of anti-aging bioactives.*
• Helps enhance skin elasticity and firmness while regulating oil production.**
• Hydrates while providing barrier protection and minimizing moisture loss with meadowfoam seed oil, grape seed oil, and vitamin e.
• Aids in calming and nourishing skin with clary sage, meadowfoam seed oil, blue chamomile, blue sapphire and aquamarine elixir. 
• Revitalizes and energizes skin’s cellular metabolism and firms and tones skin with a bio-marine anti-aging complex.***

All claims determined by active ingredient clinical data: *Bio-Actives, in vivo; **Botanical Retinol-like Complex, in vivo; ** Lavender Natural Botox Complex, in vivo; ***Bio-Marine Anti-Aging Complex, in vivo.

Free from: parabens, phthalates, sulphates, detergents, mineral oil, petrolatum, palm oil, synthetic colors. vegan. gluten free. cruelty free.

Transparency:

Bottom Line:  The product claims for the following identified ingredients were substantiated:  jasmine absolute grand, Himalayan blue sapphires (chamomilla recutita oil), neroli, clary sage, meadowfoam seed oil, grape seed oil, and vitamin e.

However, we were unable to substantiate the claims with clinical research results of the following specific ingredients:

• Bio-Actives, in vivo
• Botanical Retinol-like Complex, in vivo
• Lavender Natural Botox Complex, in vivo
• Bio-Marine Anti-Aging Complex, in vivo.

Product:  Neocell Beauty Bursts

Ingredient(s):  Collagen Type 1 & 3, Hyaluronic Acid, Vitamin C.

Other ingredients:  Brown Rice Syrup, Evaporated Cane Syrup, Soy Lecithin, Palm Oil and/or Safflower Oil, Citric Acid, Natural Fruit and Vegetable Color, Natural Flavors, Glycerine, Luo Han Guo (Monk Fruit).

Claims: 

Benefits: Beautiful Skin + Supports Hair & Nail Health. Hydrates the skin, for a radiant glow.

Beauty Burst Chews combine collagen, hyaluronic acid and vitamin C to activate your natural beauty at the cellular level. These three beauty nutrients work together to build beautiful skin from the inside out. Enjoy our snackable Beauty Bursts every day, and unleash your most beautiful you.

Transparency:

Bottom Line:  Overall, the product claims were fairly general based on these specific ingredients but substantiated nonetheless.

Product:  Neocell Derma MatrixTM Collagen Skin Complex

Ingredient(s): Collagen Type 1 & 3, Hyaluronic Acid, Vitamin C. 

Claims: 

Give your beauty a daily wake-up call with Derma Matrix Powder.

Benefits: Beautiful & Hydrated Skin. With collagen clinically shown to visibly reduce the appearance of wrinkles to help maintain suppleness and beautiful, smooth skin.

Ingredients: Collagen Type 1 & 3, Hyaluronic Acid, Vitamin C. Hyaluronic acid promotes skin hydration and collagen supports elasticity, so you can radiate beauty from the inside out.

Transparency:

Bottom Line:  Overall, the product claims were fairly general based on these specific ingredients but substantiated nonetheless.