THE GUIDE
THE ULTIMATE SCIENTIFIC GUIDE TO SUNSCREENS
This has been a long time coming; the topic of sunscreens. How a person classifies this very distinct sector of beauty (or cosmetic drug) can unveil so much! Where a person lives, their lifestyle, skin type, skin pigment, and genetic disposition to skin cancer; these are some of the elements that factor into types of photo protecting ingredients, level of SPF, and (of course) how one selects their sunscreen. As such, I’ve wanted to tackle this topic and provide as much science-beauty education on what you need to know to make those hefty decisions when purchasing your sunscreen. Here is our ultimate scientific guide to sunscreens.
So sit back, grab a cup of coffee or tea, and let’s get started!
You might be thinking, just tell me which sunscreen ingredients/compounds are best for me.
If only it could be that simple.
We briefly touched on ultraviolet radiation (UVR) such as ultraviolet A (UVA)/ultraviolet B (UVB) and a host of sunscreen ingredients in previous posts but we’ve never provided a lengthy Rolodex of information. And these days, there seems to be a myriad of discussions (and fear-mongering) regarding the benefits of using (or not using) sunscreen.
Whatever camp you fall under, it’s hard to argue with the science behind sunscreen use. As our exposure to the sun increases with age, our need to protect our youthful appearance becomes increasingly important. Hence, photoprotection of the skin becomes paramount.
Look, we know there are so many sites and portals that explain the basic rundown on sun protection and product recommendations. This post will evaluate some sunscreens that are currently out in the market as it relates to claim substantiation. But more importantly, we will tap into some of the marketing associations and myths that come with sunscreen buying these days.
But before we dive into sunscreen ingredients and SPF levels, we need to understand the basics.
Questions and Answers ():
: Well, sunlight emits a series of energy waves (electromagnetic waves) and is composed of solar radiation which includes ultraviolet (100-400nm), visible (400-780nm), and infrared (780-4000nm).
: UV radiation (UVR) is further divided into three regions of the electromagnetic radiation spectrum: UVA, UVB, and UVC.
The main difference that you want to remember is that UVA causes signs of aging and UVB is what causes sunburns/burns.
UVA = Aging and UVB = Burns.
Simple.
UV Types | Wavelength Range (nm) | Earth's Ozone Absorption | What does it do? | Glass Penetration |
---|---|---|---|---|
UVC | 100-280 | 100% | Most harmful but blocked by the ozone layer and atmosphere. | Blocked by the ozone layer |
UVB | 280-320 | 90% | Causes sunburns, inflammation, and skin cancer. | No |
UVA | 315-400 | 0% | Causes aging, pigmentation production, and skin cancer. | Yes |
: The Earth’s ozone layer has been shown to absorb 100% of UVC and roughly 90% UVB, so it is fairly clear that protecting oneself from UVA (at a minimum) is recommended.
Vitamin D (a fat-soluble vitamin) acts like a steroid hormone and is metabolized in the liver and kidneys which is important in regulating calcium and phosphate for metabolic maintenance and skeletal health. We need this for a host of reasons. Bone health and mental health to name a few. It can be ingested via diet but most importantly, it can be produced in the skin endogenously as vitamin D3.
I won’t go into the whole vitamin D deficiency discussion as this could be its own topic alone.
: Broad spectrum means it is designed to protect from both UVA and UVB.
: UVI stands for the ultraviolet index. The UVI is a numerical rating scale related to the fluxes of biologically active UVR that induce erythema (skin redness) formation on human skin. It is often recommended to use the UVI as an educational tool to warn individuals in protecting themselves from the sun’s harsh UV rays.
If you are curious about what the UVI is in your local area (the US only) – go here.
: SPF stands for sun protection factor with a numerical range between 5-50, with a general recommendation to incorporate at least SPF 30 or greater.
The SPF level is calculated based on how much time it takes for a person to produce one minimal erythema (skin redness) dose (MED) on protected skin when 2 mg/cm2 of sunscreen is applied divided by how much time it takes for that same person to produce one MED on unprotected skin. MED is the lowest time interval or dosage of UV light.
In other words, it is the ratio of the amount of UV required to burn protected skin (with sunscreen) as compared to the amount required to burn on unprotected skin (without sunscreen).
SPF=minimal time to burn (with sunscreen)
minimal time to burn (without sunscreen)
So applying a sunscreen with SPF 30 means that it is 30 times more likely to protect your skin from burning as compared to unprotected skin (no sunscreen).
: It’s more like the higher the SPF, the more effective the product is in preventing sunburn.
What does this mean?
The SPF level is correlated to the measure of UVB absorption. The formula to calculate the percent that your applied sunscreen absorbs or filters out UVB levels is based on the following:
UVB Absorption % = 100 – (100/SPF)
For example, an SPF of 30 means that it is 30 times likely for your sunscreen to filter out 96.7% of UVB before burning when compared to no sunscreen application.
SPF Level | UVB Absorption (%) |
---|---|
15 | 93.3 |
20 | 95.0 |
25 | 96.0 |
30 | 96.7 |
35 | 97.1 |
40 | 97.5 |
45 | 97.8 |
50 | 98.0 |
75 | 98.7 |
100 | 99.0 |
: The higher the SPF number the more effective its % UVB absorbance becomes as compared to a much lower SPF. For example, with SPF 15 (93.3%) versus SPF 50 (98.0%), there is a 4.7% difference.
But here’s the caveat:
There is little % UVB absorbance difference between levels as you move up in SPF level. Meaning, there’s not much of a difference between SPF 45 (97.8%) versus SPF 50 (98.0%), a 0.2% difference.
If we dive a bit deeper, one clinical study suggested that SPF 70+ sunscreens provided clinical benefits when applied; meeting minimal SPF levels recommended for skin cancer and photodamage prevention. Whereas sunscreens with SPF 30 or 50 may not produce sufficient protection. In addition, there are clinical studies that suggest SPF 100+ sunscreen is significantly more effective in protecting against sunburn than SPF 50+.
: Currently, there hasn’t been a clear scientific consensus on how to calculate UVA absorption percentage that is similar to that for UVB.
: Sunscreen ingredients are typically identified as physical (inorganic) or chemical (organic) sunscreens.
: Physical sunscreen (sometimes noted as mineral or inorganic sunscreen) ingredients are physical blockers that reflect, scatter, and/or absorb UVR. Physical sunscreens are made up of metal and oxygen. These include zinc oxide (1 zinc + 1 oxygen) and titanium dioxide (1 titanium + 2 oxygen).
Physical Sunscreens | Chemical Formula | UV Blocking | USA Concentration Limit (Up to %) | Issues and Use |
---|---|---|---|---|
Zinc oxide | ZnO | Photostable | ||
Titanium dioxide | TiO2 | Photostable |
: Chemical sunscreens are everything else outside of zinc oxide and titanium oxide. Chemical sunscreens absorb high-intensity UVR and are sometimes noted as organic ingredients.
In chemistry, “organic” based compounds are generally identified as carbon-based or contain carbonyl (C=O) groups. Chemical sunscreens are generally compounds with aromatic rings linked to a carbonyl (C=O) group. An aromatic structure has a ring-like structure and is typically a benzene ring. A carbonyl group is a functional group composed of a carbon atom double-bonded to an oxygen atom.
Chemical Sunscreens | Chemical Formula | UV Blocking | USA Concentration Limit (Up to %) | Issues and Use |
---|---|---|---|---|
Aminobenzoic acid (PABA) | C7H7NO2 | Photo and contact allergen. | ||
Avobenzone | C20H22O3 | Can degrade Octinoxate. | ||
Cinoxate | C14H18O4 | N/A | ||
Ensulizole | C13H10N2O3S | N/A | ||
Homosalate | C16H22O3 | Increases the effect of other UVB blockers. | ||
Octisalate | C15H22O3 | Increases the effect of other UVB blockers. | ||
Octinoxate | C18H26O3 | Photo-unstable. | ||
Octocrylene | C24H27NO2 | Can increase the SPF formula. | ||
Oxybenzone | C14H12O3 | Contact or photo contact dermatitis. | ||
Padimate O | C17H27NO2 | N/A |
: That would be titanium dioxide which typically leaves a stronger white cast as compared to zinc oxide by comparison.
So if this bothers you, reach for chemical sunscreen or zinc oxide formulated products.
: It is physically impossible for a physical sunscreen to be completely clear or “invisible”.
Both titanium dioxide and zinc oxide are white powders in their raw material stage. And the only way to prevent that white-ghostly cast is formulating the following ways:
- Micronizing (grounding up) the crap out of it to below 100 nanometers (0.1 micrometers). Thus, a nanoparticle.
- Or formulating at a very very low concentration.
Don’t get me wrong, some brands have found ways or means of mitigating that unwanted white-cast by providing:
- Tinted options
- Utilizing trademarked or proprietary blends that aren’t micronized to smithereens and don’t leave a horrendous ghostly cast.
- Opting to use zinc oxide.
Still, if you have even the slightest bit of pigmentation/melanin or a darker complexion, it is safe to say that most “invisible” marketed physical sunscreens will likely leave some form of a cast.
: The quick and dirty answer to that is no. In order for physical sunscreen to be formulated in products, they have to be micronized (ground up into fine particles). These micronized particles are what defines physical ingredients as nanoparticles (small particles), at the nanometer scale.
Studies have found that titanium dioxide and zinc oxide nanoparticles don’t penetrate beyond the stratum corneum (upper layer of the skin).
: Honestly, it boils down to preferences based on skin irritation/sensitization, broad-spectrum protection, and whether you fancy that typical white sunscreen cast. Each type provides varying advantages and both work by absorbing UV.
Both physical and chemical sunscreens have been formulated in products, so if you genuinely have no aversion to skin irritation or the white cast effect, look for sunscreens that include both as an option.
: There seems to be this myth that chemical sunscreens need more time to absorb in the skin as compared to physical sunscreens.
The truth is, both are effective straight out of the bottle. Both absorb UV light and convert it to heat. And the time to absorb is generally calculated in with instructions to apply your sunscreen about 15 mins before sun exposure.
: First, both physical (inorganic or mineral) and chemical (organic) sunscreens are chemical in nature. In fact, some physical sunscreens require heavy processing to micronize (break down) its large particle size in order to provide a more finished formulated product.
There are natural botanicals that have been shown to provide mild photoprotective qualities, but studies are limited based on equivalent potency as compared to physical/chemical sunscreen options.
: If you want protection from longer wavelengths of UVA (such as UVA1) and UVB protection, reach for zinc oxide or avobenzone containing products.
It’s important to note that avobenzone can cause sensitivities or irritation if formulated above the 3% concentration limit. If purchasing a sunscreen with UVA1 is a must, you may want to venture outside the US to look for sunscreen products as there may be more UVA1 blocking product options.
: As we said before, UVC is blocked by the atmosphere (ozone layer). UVB is blocked by glass. UVA can penetrate through the glass which makes UVA protection more important at a minimum.
: I’ve discussed the antioxidant benefits of vitamin C and E previously, and it isn’t a secret that both have been shown to provide protection against sunburns when combined.
But what about their use in UV damage protection or coupled with sunscreen?
In a 1996 study, researchers found that vitamin C was capable of additive protection against UVB damage (sunburn cell formation) when combined with a UVB sunscreen. In fact, what was observed in an animal model was that vitamin C demonstrated significantly better UVA-mediated phototoxic protection as compared to vitamin E. And that the combination of vitamin C and E only exhibited slightly more effectiveness than vitamin C alone.
But here’s the interesting part of the 1996 study: When vitamin C (or a combo of vitamin C + E) was formulated with a UVA sunscreen (like oxybenzone a chemical sunscreen), the study observed additional protective benefits from phototoxicity (or phototoxic damage).
In addition, a 2013 study evaluated the effectiveness of ascorbic acid (vitamin C) with zinc oxide and titanium dioxide (physical sunscreens). The study found that ascorbic acid was able to increase accumulation of sunscreens on the skin surface and enhance their efficacy.
But as with anything, concentration matters. Therefore, if you are adding vitamin C or other antioxidant packed serums to boots sunscreen effectiveness, be sure to be mindful of concentration and how you apply your products.
: This is a tricky subject as most people typically just simply slab on a tiny bit everywhere.
A published rule of thumb is to use the teaspoon rule (or 2 mg/cm2 applied to the skin) which is what is used in determining SPF levels.
The teaspoon rule is the following for each part of your body:
- Face/head/neck: 1 teaspoon (or 5 mL) or roughly ¼ teaspoon for your face.
- Body (arms, legs, torso): 8 teaspoons (35-40 mL).
Who has the patience for that?!
Let’s be honest, the teaspoon rule is fine and dandy in principle, but who really sits around measuring a teaspoon amount every time they are about to apply sunscreen? In truth, the average person will likely apply half the required amount for protection which is roughly 0.5 mg/cm2.
And compound that with the fact that one or two applications would practically annihilate a typical tube of sunscreen (~50 to 80mL).
Some studies suggest applying one finger worth of sunscreen with the caveat that this will only provide half of the protection of your given sunscreen. Two fingers to approximate the necessary amount needed for full protection of your given sunscreen.
I’ve also seen some recommendations to estimate a “shot glass” worth of sunscreen product.
: The truth is there are studies that provide a correlation of specific SPF levels using a defined layer of application (in mg/cm2). With 2 mg/cm2 application providing the measured protection based on SPF levels.
So why 2 mg/cm2 application? The use of 2 mg/cm2 application provided the best reproducible standardization when it comes to studying an accurate burn rate.
In the end, we can’t be expected to apply such an exorbitant amount of sunscreen each and every time.
So the best advice is to aim for a higher SPF level when possible and keep using sunscreen because some protection is better than no protection.
: If we are simply looking at sun protection, both face and body sunscreens are the same formulation with the only major difference being its size. Bottle size that is. Most body sunscreens often come in larger bottles (obviously) in order to accommodate application to the entire body.
So can you use body sunscreen for your face? The quick answer is it depends. If you don’t have any major sensitivities to sunscreen products and ingredients, then by all means, save money and buy the larger body sunscreen bottles for your 2-in-1 face + body sun protection needs.
If you happen to be sensitive to sunscreen products, then I would stray away from multi-purposing it. For example, if you are sensitive to the oilier sunscreens, then be sure to purchase oil-free face sunscreen specifically.
My point is that our faces often tend to be significantly more finicky when it comes to ingredients. So, if you are those that this description seems to resonate with, then separate your face and body sunscreen protection products.
: The general rule of thumb is to apply your sunscreen before sun exposure, not once but twice. Applying a double application of your sunscreen may mitigate any erroneous missed areas of topical protection based on a 2013 and 2018 study.
But much like the teaspoon or two finger rule, this is often an unenforced rule that most brands rarely suggest in their instructions.
Overall, it is commonly recommended to reapply sunscreen every 2-3 hours.
: Oh yes, let’s talk about this one; the US FDA overview of Shedding New Light on Sunscreen Absorption. While I won’t go into the nitty-gritty fury (from the media) of this particular study which caused massive hysteria, I will summarize and provide my brief thoughts.
Important note:
The US FDA has proposed a rule for nonprescription, over-the-counter (OTC) sunscreen drug products.
Any sunscreen active ingredient that is absorbed into the bloodstream at a level of 0.5 ng/mL (or higher), would need to undergo further testing to demonstrate whether there is a risk for cancer/birth defects/adverse effects.
Ok, here are the studies:
- Original preliminary June 2019 study: Effect of Sunscreen Application Under Maximal Use Conditions on Plasma Concentration of Sunscreen Active Ingredients: A Randomized Clinical Trial (Clinical Trial NCT03582215)
- Study Specs (Part 1):
- Volunteers: 24
- Timeline: July 2018 through August 2018
- Application:
- 2 mg/cm2 of sunscreen was applied to 75% of body surface area
- 4 times per day for 4 days
- 30 blood samples were collected over 7 days from each participant.
- 4 randomized sunscreens evaluating 4 active ingredients (6 subjects per sunscreen)
- Cream (2% Avobenzone; 10% Octocrylene; 2% Ecamsule)
- Lotion (3% Avobenzone; 4% Oxybenzone; 6% Octocrylene)
- Spray 1 (3% Avobenzone; 6% Oxybenzone; 2.35% Octocrylene; 15% Homosalate; 5% Octisalate)
- Spray 2 (3% Avobenzone; 5% Oxybenzone; 10% Octocrylene)
- Conclusions: The preliminary (Part 1) study concluded that plasma concentrations exceeded FDA established threshold (0.5 ng/mL) for 4 active ingredients (Avobenzone, Oxybenzone, Octocrylene, and Ecamsule) in sunscreens under maximal conditions.
- My take:
- This was a preliminary study which means further examination was advised.
- The population (or n) was small, at only 24 volunteers
- The average maximum plasma concentrations exceeded the normal FDA limit (0.5 ng/mL) after 4 applications after Day 1, well over two times the concentration.
- The authors even provided a warning that the study was in no indication that individuals should refrain from sunscreen use.
- Study Specs (Part 1):
- Continuing Jan 2020 study: Effect of Sunscreen Application on Plasma Concentration of Sunscreen Active Ingredients: A Randomized Clinical Trial (Clinical Trial NCT03582215)
- Study Specs (Part 2):
- Volunteers: 48
- Timeline: January 2019 through February 2019
- Application:
- 2 mg/cm2 of sunscreen was applied to 75% of body surface area
- 0 hours on day 1
- 4 times on day 2 through day 4 at 2-hour intervals.
- 34 blood samples were collected over 21 days from each participant.
- 4 randomized sunscreens evaluating 6 active ingredients (12 subjects per sunscreen)
- Lotion (3% Avobenzone; 4% Oxybenzone; 6% Octocrylene)
- Aerosol Spray (3% Avobenzone; 6% Oxybenzone; 10% Octocrylene; 15% Homosalate; 5% Octisalate)
- Non-aerosol Spray (3% Avobenzone; 10% Octocrylene; 10% Homosalate; 5% Octisalate; 7.5% Octinoxate)
- Pump Spray ( 3% Avobenzone; 10% Homosalate; 5% Octisalate; 7.5% Octinoxate)
- Conclusions: The continuing study (which encompasses both Part 1 and Part 2) again concluded that plasma concentrations exceeded FDA established threshold (0.5 ng/mL) for 6 active ingredients (Avobenzone, Oxybenzone, Octocrylene, Homosalate, Octisalate, Octinoxate) in sunscreens.
- My take:
- This was a follow-up to the original preliminary study.
- The design of how volunteers applied sunscreen products seemed to be more relevant to a normal application regimen.
- The average maximum plasma concentrations still exceeded the normal FDA limit (0.5 ng/mL).
- Again, the authors provided a warning that the study was in no indication that individuals should refrain from sunscreen use.
- Study Specs (Part 2):
: Recently, there has been quite a bit of concern for the effects of sunscreen on marine life and coral reefs. In fact, Hawaii has banned some sunscreens containing oxybenzone and octinoxate, which has been suspected to harm coral reefs.
My take on the whole issue is that we still have limited data to unequivocally establish a true correlation between sunscreen active ingredients and its total disruption to marine life and/or coral reefs.
In fact, if we really look at the nitty gritty disruption, the effect on marine life is more heavily correlated to materialism and consumerism which is the true natural disrupting culprit. If we could lower our consumption to create less waste and minimize new packaging production, that alone has significant historical data to show relief on our natural environment and planet.
But I digress…
: This is definitely a question that can’t be easily answered as this depends on several factors. I’ve said that skincare is not a “one size fits all” determination, and sunscreen definitely applies to this similar principle.
Ok, our review…
Overall, it wouldn’t be impossible to provide a complete review of all brands and all sunscreens from every continent. In fact, based on cosmetic and drug regulations, each country provides their own restrictions and nuances. For instance, what is restricted or banned in Australia may not be the same as within the US (and vice versa). And of course, what about reviewing face sunscreens versus body sunscreens? Well, the list would never end.
Therefore, I’ve reviewed some selected products (focusing on face sunscreens) which looked at the following:
- Product: Name of product
- Active Ingredient(s): Full active ingredient list.
- Active Ingredient %: Whether the active ingredients meet % concentration limit.
- Sunscreen Type: Physical, chemical, or both
- Inactive Ingredient(s): Full inactive ingredient list.
- SPF (15-50): Actual SPF.
- UV Protection: UVA/UVB/Broad Spectrum
- UV Protection Claim: Whether the active ingredients match the UV blocking claims.
- Teaspoon Rule: Is there enough for the teaspoon rule? More than 50+ mL.
- Directions and Reapplication Instructions: Whether instructions meet the recommended teaspoon rule and reapplication time.
- Claims: Stemming from UV protection from the active sunscreen ingredients.
- Transparency: Whether the claims (if any) are substantiated
- Transparent: 👍🏻
- Not transparent: 👎🏻
- Partly transparent (transparent but may be lacking some components):
- Bottom Line: Our overall opinion based on our research.
These products are marketed as face sunscreens.
Ok, let’s look at the products!
THE BRANDS AND PRODUCTS
Product: Glossier Invisible Shield
Active Ingredient(s): Avobenzone 3%, Homosalate 6%, Octisalate 5%
Active Ingredient %: 👍🏻
Sunscreen Type: Chemical sunscreens
Inactive Ingredient(s): Water, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Dipropylene Glycol, Methyl Trimethicone, Biosaccharide Gum-4, Caprylyl Methicone, Propanediol, Bis-Ethylhexyl Hydroxydimethoxy Benzylmalonate, Betaine, Acrylates Copolymer, Ammonium AcryloyldimethyltaurateNP Copolymer, Hydroxyacetophenone, Phenoxyethanol, Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein/PVP Crosspolymer, Dibutyl Lauroyl Glutamide, Dibutyl Ethylhexanoyl Glutamide, Citrus Aurantium Dulcis (Orange) Peel Oil, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Carbomer, Tocopheryl Acetate, Aminomethyl Propanol, Butylene Glycol, Hippophae Rhamnoides Fruit Extract Disodium EDTA, Pentylene Glycol, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Extract, Silica, Bioflavonoids, Potassium Sorbate, Hydroxyphenyl Propamidobenzoic Acid, Brassica Oleracea Italica (Broccoli) Extract, Ethylhexylglycerin, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Ascorbyl Palmitate.
SPF: 35
UV Protection: UVA/UVB
UV Protection Claim: 👍🏻
Teaspoon Rule: 30 mL. Not enough product to abide by the teaspoon rule more than once. 👎🏻
Directions and Reapplication Instructions: 👍🏻
After your last skincare step and before applying anything else, pump out the Invisible Shield and apply over your entire face.
For optimal protection, apply 15 minutes before sun exposure and reapply at least every two hours afterwards.
Please note that Invisible Shield is not water-resistant. We recommend using a water-resistant sunscreen if swimming or sweating.
Claims
A lightweight SPF 35 water-gel formula that feels like a serum and protects against sunburn
Transparent formula means no greasy residue and no white cast
Active microcapsules instantly absorb into skin, so it plays well with makeup
Helps prevent sun damage and skin cancer, and works to neutralize harmful free radicals
Active Microcapsules Little spheres packed with UVA/UVB filters (Avobenzone, Homosalate, and Octisalate) freshly delivered to your skin with every application.
Transparency: 👍🏻
Bottom line: The % concentration for the active ingredients of the Glossier Invisible Shield falls safely within the recommended limit.
There is not much product in the 30 mL Glossier packaging to abide by the teaspoon rule more than once. You’ll most definitely have to purchase a lot more of this product in order to provide the sun protection needed. Just something to keep in mind.
Overall, the product claim was fairly general based on SPF and UV protection but substantiated nonetheless.
Product: Cocokind daily SPF
Active Ingredient(s): Zinc oxide 21%
Active Ingredient %: 👍🏻
Sunscreen Type: Physical sunscreen
Inactive Ingredient(s): Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Coconut Alkanes, Cetearyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Argania Spinosa Kernel Oil, Tocopheryl Acetate, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Coco-glucoside, Glyceryl Caprylate, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Cetearyl Glucoside, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Xanthan Gum, Coco-caprylate/Caprate, Lecithin, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Isostearic Acid, Oryza Sativa Starch, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Bisabolol, Caprylhydroxamic Acid, Sodium Phytate, Sclerotium Gum, Sucrose, Phaeodactylum Tricornutum Extract, Glucose, Spirulina Maxima Extract, Tocopherol, C10 Alcohol, C8 Alcohol.
SPF: 32
UV Protection: UVA/UVB
UV Protection Claim: 👍🏻
Teaspoon Rule: 1.7 oz (50mL). 👍🏻
Directions and Reapplication Instructions: 👍🏻
Apply generously 15 minutes before sun exposure. We recommend using a pea-sized amount on each cheek, forehead, nose, and chin. reapply at least every 2 hours. Use a water resistant sunscreen if swimming or sweating.
Claims
Lightweight, mineral-based SPF 32 uses reef-safe zinc oxide, blue phytoplankton and microalgae to protect skin against: UVA and UVB rays, blue light, pollution damage.
Helping protect skin against sunburn, skin damage, early aging, and environmental stress
Defending skin against the effects of blue light and pollution
Delivering a natural-looking finish with a lightweight, non-greasy feel
Transparency: 👍🏻
Bottom line: The % concentration for the active ingredient of the Cocokind daily SPF falls safely within the recommended limit. Overall, the product claim was fairly general based on SPF and UV protection but substantiated nonetheless.
Product: Supergoop! Unseen Sunscreen
Active Ingredient(s): Avobenzone 3%, Homosalate 8%, Octisalate 5%, Octocrylene 4%
Active Ingredient %: 👍🏻
Sunscreen Type: Chemical sunscreens
Inactive Ingredient(s): Isododecane, Dimethicone Crosspolymer, Dimethicone/Bis-Isobutyl PPG-20 Crosspolymer, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Isohexadecane, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Meadowfoam Estolide, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Polyester-7, Neopentyl Glycol Diheptanoate, Lithothamnion Calcareum Extract, Caprylyl Glycol, Butyrospermum Parkii (Shea) Butter, Jojoba Esters, Mannitol, Olibanum, Lecithin, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Diatomaceous Earth, Zinc Sulfate, Silica, Tocopherol
SPF: 40
UV Protection: UVA/UVB
UV Protection Claim: 👍🏻
Teaspoon Rule: 1.7 oz (50mL). 👍🏻
Directions and Reapplication Instructions: 2 hr reapplication indicated on the packaging (not on the website) 👍🏻
Apply generously and evenly as the last step in your skincare routine and before makeup.
Claims
The original, totally invisible, weightless, scentless sunscreen with SPF 40 that leaves a velvety finish.
This innovative, antioxidant-rich multitasker has a unique oil-free formula that glides onto skin while providing broad spectrum SPF 40 protection. Use it as a makeup-gripping primer under foundation when you want a little more coverage, or on its own if you want a more natural look. It’s a totally game-changing way to wear sunscreen every day, and it will have you SPF-Obsessed™.
Transparency: 👍🏻
Bottom line: The % concentration for the active ingredients of the Supergoop! Unseen Sunscreen falls safely within the recommended limits. Overall, the product claim was fairly general based on SPF and UV protection but substantiated nonetheless.
Product: Josh Rosebrook Nutrient Day Cream
Active Ingredient(s): Zinc Oxide (12%, Non Nano, Uncoated, Micronized)
Active Ingredient %: 👍🏻
Sunscreen Type: Physical sunscreen
Inactive Ingredient(s): *Aloe Vera Leaf Juice, *Shea Butter, *Evening Primrose Oil, *Hemp Seed Oil, *Jojoba Oil, *Borage Seed Oil, *Almond Oil, *Grape Seed Oil, *Sesame Oil, *Avocado Oil, *Olive Oil, *Sea Buckthorn Oil, *Broccoli Oil, ‡Candelilla Wax, *Gum Arabic, *Guar Gum, §Xanthan Gum, *Calendula, *Bilberry, *Chamomile, *Burdock, *Rosemary, *Dandelion, *Rose Hips, *Catnip, *Chickweed, *Neem, *Skullcap, *Ginkgo Leaf, *Linden Flower, *Hawthorn Berry, *Green Tea, *Flax, *Nettle, *Sage, *Marshmallow Root, *Cayenne, *Ginseng, *Peppermint, *Alfalfa, *Vitamin E, Potassium Sorbate, *Benzoin Resin, †Carrot Seed Oil.
*Certified Organic, †organic, ‡wildcrafted
SPF: 30
UV Protection: UVA/UVB
UV Protection Claim: 👍🏻
Teaspoon Rule: 1, 2, and 4 oz (30, 60, 118 mL). 👍🏻
Directions and Reapplication Instructions: 👍🏻
For full protection apply 1/4 tsp to face.
Reapply every 2 hours and after perspiration.
Avoid rubbing or touching the face, especially while perspiration is present, the product/protection can be removed from the face.
Claims
Our dual-action day cream performs as a regenerating moisturizer and natural, broad-spectrum sunscreen. Nutrient Day Cream delivers a potent combination of distinct herbal actives and plant oils to repair, moisturize, and protect the skin. Unique herbal synergies release skin transforming anti-inflammatories, antioxidants, fatty acids, and phytonutrients proven to firm, reduce redness, and assist the skin in regeneration. This luxurious, lightweight cream finishes matte, smooth, and comfortable without a white cast. We’ve chosen a high quality uncoated, non-nano, high micron zinc oxide to provide effective sunblock against skin-damaging solar rays.
Zinc Oxide mineral is scientifically proven to help protect against UVA and UVB rays and is an approved broad-spectrum sunblock by the FDA and EU. Our Nutrient Day Cream SPF 30 and Nutrient Day Cream Tinted SPF 30 have been thoroughly screened and tested and approved as High SPF 30 and Broad Spectrum by an FDA Registered, California State Certified Laboratory in accordance with FDA regulation.
Suitable for all skin types including dry, oily, combination and acne and sensitive skin conditions.
Transparency: 👍🏻
Bottom line: The % concentration for the active ingredient of the Josh Rosebrook Nutrient Day Cream falls safely within the recommended limits.
First, for those that are seeking a non-nano physical sunscreen product formulated with botanical ingredients; then this is your guy.
Second, it has been rare (and let’s be frank, hardly ever) to come across a sunscreen product that provides explicit instructions that follow the teaspoon rule, patting rule, and reapplication rule; and this does!
Overall, the product claims on SPF and UV protection are substantiated.
FYI this also comes in a tinted formula.
Product: Maelove Sun Protector
Active Ingredient(s): Zinc Oxide (18.6%)
Active Ingredient %: 👍🏻
Sunscreen Type: Physical sunscreen
Inactive Ingredient(s): Water (Aqua), Cyclopentasiloxane, Butylene Glycol, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cyclohexasiloxane, Polyglyceryl-3 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Sorbitan Stearate, Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Sodium Lactate, Polyacrylamide, C13-14 Isoparaffin, Laureth-7, Caprylyl Glycol, Hexylene Glycol, Imperata Cylindrica Root Extract, PEG-8, Carbomer, Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Hexyl Dimethicone, Cetyl Alcohol, Lecithin, Tocopherol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Ascorbyl Palmitate, Ascorbic Acid, Citric Acid, Xanthan Gum, Tocopheryl Linoleate/Oleate, Teprenone, Phoenix Dactylifera (Date) Fruit Extract, Polygonum Aviculare Extract, Disodium EDTA, Dipotassium Glycyrrhizate, Arabidopsis Thaliana Extract, Plankton Extract, Micrococcus Lysate
SPF: 30
UV Protection: UVA/UVB
UV Protection Claim: 👍🏻
Teaspoon Rule: 2 oz (59mL). 👍🏻
Directions and Reapplication Instructions: 👍🏻
Apply liberally 15 minutes before sun exposure.
Reapply at least every 2 hours.
Claims
Love sun protection but hate using SPF daily? Change your point of view with The Sun Protector. This 100% mineral sunscreen is both silky smooth and light as air.
Broad Spectrum SPF 30 fortified with Vitamins C and E. Naturally formulated without avobenzone, oxybenzone, parabens, dyes and fragrances.
And a bonus: The Sun Protector does double-duty as a makeup primer, making your morning routine that much simpler.
Non-nano 18% Zinc Oxide formula provides your skin with complete defense against UVA and UVB rays.
Free of oxybenzone, avobenzone, octinoxate, homolsalate, parabens, phthalates, fragrance and dyes. Non-comedogenic and hypo-allergenic. Certified cruelty-free and vegan.
You can never have enough protection against free-radicals, so we fortified The Sun Protector with potent anti-oxidants Vitamin C and Vitamin E.
Transparency: 👍🏻
Bottom line: The % concentration for the active ingredient of the Maelove Sun Protector falls safely within the recommended limits. Overall, the product claims were fairly general based on SPF and UV protection but substantiated nonetheless.
Product: Farmacy Green Defense
Active Ingredient(s): Titanium Dioxide (2.40%) and Zinc Oxide (5.82%)
Active Ingredient %: 👍🏻
Sunscreen Type: Physical sunscreens
Inactive Ingredient(s): Water (Aqua), Ethyl Macadamiate, Cyclopentasiloxane, Ethylhexyl Palmitate, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Propanediol, Polysorbate 80, Glyceryl Stearate, PEG-100 Stearate, Cetyl Alcohol, Polyglyceryl-6 Isostearate, Dimethicone, Echinacea Purpurea Root Extract, Aronia Melanocarpa Fruit Extract, Hydrolyzed Verbascum Thapsus Flower, Tagetes Erecta Flower Extract, Alteromonas Ferment Extract, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Carthamus Tinctorius (Safflower) Seed Oil, Malic Acid, Tocopherol, Myristic Acid, Glycerin, Hydrogenated Lecithin, Panthenol, Stearic Acid, Microcrystalline Cellulose, Alumina, Behenic Acid, Stearyl Alcohol, Caprylyl Methicone, Cyclohexasiloxane, Isohexadecane, Triethoxysilylethyl Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Hexyl Dimethicone, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, 1,2-Hexanediol, Behenyl Alcohol, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Sodium Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Cellulose Gum, Sorbitan Oleate, Butylene Glycol, Phenoxyethanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Ethylhexylglycerin, Sodium Benzoate, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Citrate, Citric Acid, Sodium Phytate
SPF: 30
UV Protection: UVA/UVB
UV Protection Claim: 👍🏻
Teaspoon Rule: 1.6 oz (50 mL). 👍🏻
Directions and Reapplication Instructions: 👍🏻
Use daily over your moisturizer or under makeup.
Apply liberally 15 minutes before sun exposure.
Reapply at least every 2 hours.
Claims
An invisible broad-spectrum SPF 30 mineral sunscreen that is never greasy and works great under makeup . This daily skin shield also helps guard against environmental factors associated with skin aging.
Creates an invisible shield. This non-greasy daily sunscreen works on all skin tones and never leaves a white cast! Titanium dioxide and zinc oxide sit on the skin’s surface to deflect damaging UVA/UVB rays, unlike chemical sunscreens that typically penetrate the skin and absorb UV rays.
Transparency:
Bottom line: The % concentration for the active ingredients of the Farmacy Green Defense falls safely within the recommended limits.
One thing to note:
Their statement that titanium dioxide and zinc oxide only deflects damaging UVA/UVB rays and does not absorb UV rays, is slightly misinformed. Yes, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide reflect UV, roughly 4-5%. But based on a 2015 study, it also provides UV protection via absorption of UVR as well!. The correct information is that titanium dioxide and zinc oxide provide UV protection primarily via absorption of UV radiation and not through significant reflection or scattering.
Apart from the misnomer regarding physical sunscreens, the product claims were fairly general based on SPF and UV protection but substantiated nonetheless.
Product: La Roche-Posay Anthelios Mineral Zinc Oxide Sunscreen
Active Ingredient(s): Titanium Dioxide (6%) and Zinc Oxide (5%)
Active Ingredient %: 👍🏻
Sunscreen Type: Physical sunscreens
Inactive Ingredient(s): Water, Dimethicone, Isododecane, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Undecane, Triethylhexanoin, Isohexadecane, Nylon-12, Caprylyl Methicone, Butyloctyl Salicylate, Phenethyl Benzoate, Styrene/Acrylates Copolymer, Silica, Tridecane, Dicaprylyl Carbonate, Dicaprylyl Ether, Talc, Dimethicone/PEG-10/15 Crosspolymer, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Phenoxyethanol, Magnesium Sulfate, Propylene Glycol, Caprylyl Glycol, PEG-8 Laurate, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Triethoxycaprylylsilane, Diethylhexyl Syringylidenemalonate, Tocopherol, Propylene Carbonate, Cassia Alata Leaf Extract, Maltodextrin, Benzoic Acid, PEG-9
SPF: 50
UV Protection: UVA/UVB
UV Protection Claim: 👍🏻
Teaspoon Rule: 1.7 oz (50 mL). 👍🏻
Directions and Reapplication Instructions: 👍🏻
Shake well before use. Apply generously 15 minutes before sun exposure
Reapply:
- After 40 minutes of swimming or sweating
- Immediately after towel drying
- At least every 2 hours
Claims
ULTRA LIGHT SUNSCREEN FLUID: This 100% mineral sunscreen with zinc oxide and titanium dioxide was developed for sensitive skin. The non-whitening, fast-absorbing texture leaves a matte finish on skin. It is formulated with Cell-Ox Shield® technology: broad spectrum UVA/UVB protection with antioxidants.
100% mineral zinc oxide sunscreen provides broad spectrum SPF 50 protection
Non-whitening, fast absorbing texture with a matte finish
A powerful antioxidant complex to help protect skin from free radicals caused by UV rays
Water resistant (40 minutes)
Formulated and rigorously tested for skin tolerance, even on sensitive skin
Cell-Ox Shield® technology:
- 100% Mineral UV Filters: Zinc Oxide and Titanium Dioxide deliver broad-spectrum protection.
- Powerful Antioxidant Protection: With Senna Alata, a tropical leaf extract known to defend skin cells against damaging free radicals caused by the sun that can accelerate skin aging.
Transparency: 👍🏻
Bottom line: The % concentration for the active ingredients of the La Roche-Posay Anthelios Mineral Zinc Oxide Sunscreen falls safely within the recommended limits. Overall, the product claims were fairly general based on SPF and UV protection but substantiated nonetheless.
Product: 100% Pure Tomato Lycopene Moisturizer
Active Ingredient(s): Zinc Oxide (5%) and Titanium Dioxide (4%)
Active Ingredient %: 👍🏻
Sunscreen Type: Physical sunscreens
Inactive Ingredient(s): Aloe Barbadensis Leaf (Aloe Vera Gel) Juice, Annatto Extract, Aqua (Deioinized Water), Camelia Sinensis (Green Tea) Leaf Extract, Citric Acid, Cocos Nucifera (Coconut) Oil, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Extract, Glycerin, Helianthus Annuus (Sunflower) Oil, Hippophae Rhamnoides (Sea Buckthorn) Fruit Oil, Lecithin, Leuconostoc/Radish Root Ferment Filtrate, Lonicera Caprifolium (Honeysuckle) Extract, Lonicera Japonica (Honeysuckle) Extract, Lycopene (Tomato) Extract, Niacinamide, Resveratrol, Solanum Lycopersicum (Tomato) Seed Oil, Sorbitan Oleate, Soy Isoflavones, Squalane, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Butter, Tocopheryl Acetate (Vitamin E), Vitis Vinifera (Grape) Seed Extract, Xanthan Gum
SPF: 20. Although likely effective, it is below the recommended SPF 30+ based on a 2010 study.
UV Protection: UVA/UVB
UV Protection Claim: 👍🏻
Teaspoon Rule: 1.6 oz (50 mL). 👍🏻
Directions and Reapplication Instructions: Less than the 2-3 hr recommendation.
After cleansing and toning and before sun exposure, apply half dollar sized amount to skin of face and neck. Massage gently into skin, careful not to tug or pull. Can be layered over other moisturizers. Reapply every 80 minutes or after sweating or swimming.
Claims
Lightweight SPF 20 moisturizer nourishes and protects against the sun’s harmful UVA and UVB rays with lycopene, a protective antioxidant found in tomatoes.
Full spectrum SPF 20 moisturizer protects against the sun’s harmful UVA and UVB rays. Lycopene, an antioxidant in tomatoes, protects against smog, pollution, radiation, smoke, and other environmental toxins that generate damaging free radicals. This silky, lightweight facial moisturizer also contains olive squalane, coconut, and sunflower oils for extra skin comfort and protection.
Transparency: 👍🏻
Bottom line: The % concentration for the active ingredients of the 100% Pure Tomato Lycopene Moisturizer falls safely within the recommended limits. At an SPF 20, the 100% Pure Tomato Lycopene Moisturizer falls below the recommended SPF 30+ recommendation for photoprotection based on a 2010 study. Reapplication instructions only call for an 80-minute block versus the recommended 2-3 hour reapplication block. Something to note as this may not be the strongest option for minimal sun protection.
Overall, the product claims based on SPF and UV protection were substantiated.
Product: Koa Anti-Pollution Sunscreen
Active Ingredient(s): Zinc Oxide (12%)
Active Ingredient %: 👍🏻
Sunscreen Type: Physical sunscreen
Inactive Ingredient(s): Water, C12-15 Alkyl Benzoate, Butyloctyl Salicylate, lsododecane, Lauryl PEG-8 Dimethicone, Polymethylsilsesquioxane, Propanediol, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, C15-19 Alkane, Caprylyl Methicone, Niacinamide, Lauryl PEG-10 Tris(Trimethylsloxy)silylethyl Dimethicone, Dimethiconol/Propylsilsesquioxane/Silicate Crosspolymer, Trilaureth-4 Phosphate, Allantoin, Bisabolol, Tocopherol, Sodium Chloride, Phenylpropanol, Caprylyl Glycol, Tetrasodium Glutamate Diacetate, Sodium Hydroxide, PEG-10
SPF: 45
UV Protection: UVA/UVB
UV Protection Claim: 👍🏻
Teaspoon Rule: 2 oz (59mL). 👍🏻
Directions and Reapplication Instructions: 👍🏻
After cleansing and moisturizing, dispense SPF into clean hands and apply over entire face. Gently massage to spread evenly. Use daily. Quick Tip: We designed our SPF to be a best-in-class mineral formula, but if you notice any white-casting, spend a few extra seconds massaging the SPF over your skin.
Apply generously 15 minutes before sun exposure. Reapply after 40 minutes of swimming or sweating, immediately after towel drying, at least every 2 hours.
Claims
A super lightweight, mineral broad-spectrum SPF formula perfect for daily use.
If you haven’t heard already: sun protection is a virtue. Invest in long-term skin health with this super lightweight, mineral broad-spectrum daily SPF formula. Your future self will thank you.
In addition to blocking UV rays, our formula uses proprietary technology to fight pollution-induced free radicals, enhancing antioxidant activity up to 5x vs. traditional zinc oxide products.
Layer on the powerful invisible protectant, or apply the tinted formula to fade out flaws and achieve a more even tone.
Water and sweat resistant for 40 minutes to protect even when you’re on the move.
Transparency: 👍🏻
Bottom line: The % concentration for the active ingredient of the Koa Anti-Pollution Sunscreen (Invisible) falls safely within the recommended limits. Overall, the product claims were fairly general based on SPF and UV protection but substantiated nonetheless.
FYI this also comes in a tinted formula.
Product: alba Botanica facial sheer shield sunscreen
Active Ingredient(s): Avobenzone (3.0%), Homosalate (10.0%), Octocrylene (10.0%), Octyl Salicylate (5.0%)
Active Ingredient %: 👍🏻
Sunscreen Type: Chemical sunscreens
Inactive Ingredient(s): Water (Aqua), Cetyl Alcohol, Glycerin, Glyceryl Stearate SE, Dimethicone, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, VP/Hexadecene Copolymer, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice*, Calendula Officinalis Flower Extract*, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract*, Chamomilla Recutita (Matricaria) Flower Extract*, Ginkgo Biloba Leaf Extract, Lavandula Angustifolia (Lavender) Flower Extract*, Panax Ginseng Root Extract, Tocopheryl Acetate, Alcohol*, Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetearyl Olivate, Citric Acid, Polysorbate 60, Sodium Chloride, Sodium Stearoyl Glutamate, Sorbitan Olivate, Xanthan Gum, Benzyl Alcohol, Potassium Sorbate, Sodium Benzoate.
*Certified Organic Ingredient
SPF: 45
UV Protection: UVA/UVB
UV Protection Claim: 👍🏻
Teaspoon Rule: 2 oz (59 mL). 👍🏻
Directions and Reapplication Instructions: 👍🏻
Apply liberally 15 minutes before sun exposure. Reapply every 2 hours during sun exposure.
Claims
Step right outside and soak in the sunshine. This sheer, lightweight, watery-gel formula provides long-lasting protection that absorbs to a clean, matte finish. Its oil-free, non-comedogenic, hypo-allergenic formula won’t clog pores and wears well blended with or under make-up. Whether brunching on the patio or basking at the beach, today is your day in the sun. Features a convenient, cosmetic pump dispenser. Water resistant, biodegradable formula is certified by the Gluten-Free Certification Organization. Free of oxybenzone, octinoxate, PABA, nano-sunscreens and Vitamin A.
Free of ingredients identified to have potential adverse impact to coral reefs.
Broad spectrum protection, water resistant (80 minutes), good for sensitive skin, convenient, cosmetic pump, reef friendly, biodegradable formula.
Transparency: 👍🏻
Bottom line: The % concentration for the active ingredients of the alba Botanica facial sheer shield sunscreen falls safely within the recommended limits. Overall, the product claims were fairly general based on SPF and UV protection but substantiated nonetheless.
Product: EltaMD UV Clear
Active Ingredient(s): Zinc oxide (9%) and Octinoxate (7.5%)
Active Ingredient %: 👍🏻
Sunscreen Type: Physical and chemical sunscreens
Inactive Ingredient(s): Purified Water, Cyclopentasiloxane, Niacinamide, Octyldodecyl Neopentanoate, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer, Polyisobutene, PEG-7 Trimethylolpropane Coconut Ether, Sodium Hyaluronate, Tocopheryl Acetate, Lactic Acid, Oleth-3 Phosphate, Phenoxyethanol, Butylene Glycol, Iodopropynyl Butylcarbamate, Triethoxycaprylylsilane
SPF: 46
UV Protection: UVA/UVB
UV Protection Claim: 👍🏻
Teaspoon Rule: 1.7 oz (50 mL). 👍🏻
Directions and Reapplication Instructions: 👍🏻
Apply liberally to face and neck 15 minutes before sun exposure
Use a water-resistant sunscreen if swimming or sweating
Reapply at least every 2 hours
Claims
Oil-free EltaMD UV Clear helps calm and protect sensitive skin types prone to discoloration and breakouts associated to acne and rosacea. It contains niacinamide (vitamin B3), hyaluronic acid and lactic acid, ingredients that promote the appearance of healthy-looking skin. Very lightweight and silky, it may be worn with makeup or alone. Choose from tinted and untinted formulas for use every day.
9.0% transparent zinc oxide
Antioxidant protection combats skin-aging free radicals associated with ultraviolet (UV) and infrared radiation (IR).
Calms and protects acne-prone skin
Leaves no residue
UVA/UVB sun protection
Zinc oxide: Natural mineral compound that works as a sunscreen agent by reflecting and scattering UVA and UVB rays.
Detailed products sheet.
Transparency: 👍🏻
Bottom line: The % concentration for the active ingredients of the EltaMD UV Clear falls safely within the recommended limits. Overall, the product claims were fairly general based on SPF and UV protection but substantiated nonetheless.
Product: Black Girl Sunscreen Moisturizing Sunscreen Lotion
Active Ingredient(s): Avobenzone (3%), Homosalate (10%), Octisalate (5%), Octocrylene (2.75%)
Active Ingredient %: 👍🏻
Sunscreen Type: Chemical sunscreens
Inactive Ingredient(s): Acrylates/C10-30 Alkyl Acrylate Crosspolymer, Acrylates/C12-22 Alkyl Methacrylate Copolymer, Aloe Barbadensis Leaf Juice, Butylphthalimide, Carbomer, Daucus Carota Sativa (Carrot) Seed Oil, Disodium EDTA, Ethylhexylglycerin, Helianthus Anuus (Sunflower) Seed Oil, Hydroxypropyl Methylcellulose, Isopropylphthalimide, Lecithin, Persea Gratissima (Avocado) Oil, Phenoxyethanol, Propylene Glycol, Simmondsia Chinensis (Jojoba) Seed Oil, Sodium Hydroxide, Sorbitan Oleate, Theobroma Cacao (Cocoa) Seed Butter, Tocopheryl Acetate, Water.
SPF: 30
UV Protection: UVA/UVB
UV Protection Claim: 👍🏻
Teaspoon Rule: 3 oz (89 mL). 👍🏻
Directions and Reapplication Instructions: 👍🏻
Apply liberally: 15 minutes before sun exposure reapply: after 80 minutes of swimming or sweating immediately after towel drying , at least every 2 hours Sun Protection
Claims
Sunscreen made by women of color for people of color, because we get sunburned too.
We have created a sunscreen for every day use, filled with natural ingredients, that will protect your skin from the sun and doubles as a moisturizing lotion.
Black Girl Sunscreen dries completely clear so it’s perfect to use before any outdoor activity or even under your favorite makeup products.
Transparency: 👍🏻
Bottom line: The % concentration for the active ingredients of the Black Girl Sunscreen Moisturizing Sunscreen Lotion falls safely within the recommended limits. Overall, the product claims were fairly general based on SPF or UV protection. And although this product is specifically marketed for women of color, I believe this can be used for people of all skin colors.
Product: Biossance Squalane + Zinc Sheer Mineral Sunscreen
Active Ingredient(s): Zinc oxide (14%)
Active Ingredient %: 👍🏻
Sunscreen Type: Physical sunscreen
Inactive Ingredient(s): Water, Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride, Squalane, Glycerin, Cetearyl Alcohol, Methyl Dihydroabietate, Sorbitan Olivate, Coco-Glucoside, Cetyl Palmitate, Polyglyceryl-3 Polyricinoleate, Caprylyl/Capryl Glucoside, Nymphaea Alba Flower Extract, Acacia Senegal Gum, Ethyl Ferulate, Xanthan Gum, Sodium Gluconate, Lecithin, Sodium Palmitoyl Proline, Polyhydroxystearic Acid, Ethylhexylglycerin, Phenoxyethanol, Isostearic Acid.
SPF: 30
UV Protection: UVA/UVB
UV Protection Claim: 👍🏻
Teaspoon Rule: 1.7 oz (50 mL). 👍🏻
Directions and Reapplication Instructions: 👍🏻
Apply our sheer mineral sunscreen 15 minutes before sun exposure. Wear alone or layer over your favorite serum and moisturizer. It can also be used in place of your moisturizer. Perfect under makeup.
Reapply every 2 hours.
Claims
Powerfully Invisible, Non-toxic, Moisturizing Daily Sun Protection
Our super sheer, super safe 100% non-nano, non-toxic zinc SPF 30 mineral sunscreen protects and hydrates even the most sensitive skin—no white cast, guaranteed.
Powerfully invisible broad-spectrum, non-toxic SPF 30 mineral sunscreen protects even the most sensitive skin like you’ve never seen—literally. This lightweight, deeply hydrating sheer sunscreen lotion blends in for all skin tones fast without leaving a trace. It calms and cools sun-stressed skin and leaves absolutely everyone with a soft, dewy finish.
Our sheer mineral sunscreen lotion is for external use only. Use only as directed. Avoid eye area. We recommend a patch test prior to use if you are particularly sensitive. If irritation occurs, consult a dermatologist.
Clinical report:
- 100%: Showed significant protection against pollution while using this product (based on a single use clinical study of 35 women, ages 25-60).
- 100%: Showed clinical improvement in skin hydration (based on a 28 – day clinical study of 35 women, ages 25 – 60, once daily use.
- 94%: Said this product was non-greasy (based on a 28-day consumer study of 35 women ages 25-60, once daily use).
Transparency:
Bottom line: The % concentration for the active ingredient of the Biossance Squalane + Zinc Sheer Mineral Sunscreen falls safely within the recommended limits.
The folks at Biossance include a generalized summary of a clinical report that supposedly showed significant protection in individuals using the Squalane + Zinc Sheer Mineral Sunscreen. That’s fine and dandy. But my only (and usual) gripe with companies promoting claims from clinical reports is that they never include the actual report or link to the report on their site.
Overall, the non-clinical product claims were fairly general based on SPF and UV protection but substantiated nonetheless.
Product: Shiseido Ultimate Sun Protector Lotion
Active Ingredient(s): Avobenzone (2.3%), Homosalate (10.0%), Octisalate (5.0%), Octocrylene 5.0%
Active Ingredient %: 👍🏻
Sunscreen Type: Chemical sunscreens
Inactive Ingredient(s): Water, Diisopropyl Sebacate, Talc, Methyl Methacrylate Crosspolymer, Dimethicone, PEG/PPG-9/2 Dimethyl Ether, Sd Alcohol 40-B, Lauryl PEG-9 Polydimethylsiloxyethyl Dimethicone, Triethylhexanoin, Glycerin, Dextrin Palmitate, Sucrose Tetrastearate Triacetate, Isododecane, PPG-3 Dipivalate, Trimethylsiloxysilicate, Silica, Sodium Chloride, PEG/PPG-14/7 Dimethyl Ether, Saxifraga Sarmentosa Extract, Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract, Sophora Angustifolia Root Extract, PPG-17, Disteardimonium Hectorite, Calcium Stearate, Isostearic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Trisodium Edta, Alcohol, Silica Dimethyl Silylate, Vinyl Dimethicone/Methicone Silsesquioxane Crosspolymer, PEG-6, Bht, Tocopherol, Butylene Glycol, Stearic Acid, Sodium Metabisulfite, Syzygium Jambos Leaf Extract, Polysilicone-2, Methylparaben, Fragrance, Iron Oxides
SPF: 50+
UV Protection: UVA/UVB
UV Protection Claim: 👍🏻
Teaspoon Rule: 50 mL and 150 mL. 👍🏻
Directions and Reapplication Instructions: 👍🏻
Shake well and apply liberally to face, neck, and body, 15 minutes before sun exposure. Reapply every 2 hours, or after 80 minutes of swimming, sweating, or sport activity, and immediately after toweling dry.
To get the full broad-spectrum protection, apply one ounce of sunscreen (a shot glass full) to your entire body. Not using the correct amount will lower the level of sunscreen protection significantly.
Claims
Invisible Broad Spectrum SPF 50+ face and body sunscreen with a protective veil that becomes even more effective in heat and water. An ocean-friendly sunscreen that keeps pace with active and outdoor activities.
Our newest innovation builds on its WetForce Technology with the addition of HeatForce Technology. Together they create SynchroShield, an invisible, lightweight protective veil that’s strengthened by heat and water. The silky spf 50+ sunscreen delivers peak protection that goes on clear and rubs in quickly without any residue. For use on face and body.
This ocean-friendly formula is free of oxybenzone and octinoxate and compliant with Hawaii regulations.
For all skin types. Dermatologist-tested. Opthalmologist-tested. Non-comedogenic.
Formulated to be water- and sweat-resistant for up to 80 minutes.
In a test by 104 women, applying the formula to face and body:
During application: 100% said the formula blended quickly and comfortably onto skin.
After 4 hours:
- 98% said their faces felt moisturized
- 96% said the formula remained resistant to water, perspiration, and heat
WetForce Technology: Negative ions in the formula combine with positive ions in perspiration and water to create an additional layer of invisible sun protection. As you continue to sweat and get wet, the product becomes more effective without any white cast.
HeatForce Technology: A heat-sensing essence in the lotion becomes activated by external heat, forming a stronger barrier.
Transparency: 👍🏻
Bottom line: The % concentration for the active ingredient of the Shiseido Ultimate Sun Protector Lotion falls safely within the recommended limits.
First, kudos to the folks at Shiseido for recommending to use a “shot glass” amount of sunscreen to apply with the caveat that using an incorrect amount could decrease sun protection effectiveness.
In general, the product claims were fairly general based on SPF and UV protection but substantiated nonetheless.
But there is one fascinating and novel claim of Shiseido’s patented WetForce technology. The technology apparently improves the water repellency of the sunscreen when in contact with perspiration/sweat or water. In fact, it apparently makes the sunscreen film more uniform, smoother and stronger with a higher protection effect. The scientist in me is always overjoyed when reading novel developments such as this. Pretty amazing!
THE GOOD, THE BAD & THE LAYERING
One of the interesting things to note is that the majority of the sunscreens suggest to apply the product liberally into the skin. While this seems like the logical way of applying sunscreen, it actually is incorrect and quite vague. You should be patting it onto your skin.
Pat, pat, pat…
Let me explain.
When we rub the product into our skin, we actually remove a good portion from the skin itself. In fact, a 1991 study concluded just that! Therefore, this patting technique will not only prevent unintentional removal of the product but also assist in correctly applying that essential thin and even layer.
Then a 2006 study evaluated the effect of sunscreen application by measuring free-radical protection. The study looked at three forms of application: thin film “off” the skin, thin film in contact with the skin, and directly rubbed into the skin. The study concluded that sunscreen users were inadequately protected against UVA-induced radical damage when utilizing the “rubbing” technique.
If you are applying other products (such as moisturizers, serums, or makeup) in addition to your sunscreen, here is a good rule of thumb to follow when layering:
- Layer your skincare (serums and moisturizers) first. Remembering to apply thin to thickest or water-soluble products first.
- Pat on sunscreen next.
- Then pat makeup on (if applicable).
So what about reapplication?
Overall, your best bet is to use a sunscreen that can be delivered via a spray for reapplication. This would ensure that you aren’t removing previous sunscreen or makeup; while still adding additional protection.
You might be asking: “So I’ve been applying and rubbing sunscreen all wrong this entire time?!”
In the end, some sunscreen protection is infinitely better than absolutely no protection at all. And a thin layer that isn’t exactly perfect is far better than not applying any layer at all.
DO I NEED THIS?
Yes. Simple and to the point.
If you have any desire to protect your skin from the daily effects of sun damage, then incorporating sunscreen into your skincare routine is a must! And don’t be fooled by the cooler seasons, sun protection should not stop even when daylight/sunlight hours are shorter.
Either way, the choice is always yours.
ARE THE CLAIMS BACKED BY SCIENCE?
Overall, the science behind sunscreen use and their added benefits to protecting our skin has been thoroughly studied. This isn’t a novel concept or technology. We can safely say that scientist and researchers are aligned with the following:
- Sunscreen protects from the damaging effects of UV radiation.
- Protection from both UVA and UVB is generally recommended.
- Using a generous amount (teaspoon rule) will provide the most effective means of maximizing the sun protection factor (SPF) product number which calculates the % UVB absorption.
- Both chemical and physical sunscreens absorb UV and convert it to heat. And physical sunscreens reflect about 5% UV.
- Always compliment your sunscreens with wearing protective clothing.
When it comes to the development and innovation of sunscreen ingredients, the US is definitely the tortoise in this situation. Slow and steady. But in this case, slow and steady won’t win the race when skin protection and developing sunscreen technologies are concerned.
If US brands are going to market their products with promising power as well as sustainability, there needs to be a concerted push to demand that US regulating bodies move to the future.
How do we expect our health care and scientific professionals to formulate innovative products when the ingredients themselves maybe 20 years behind? With this in mind, I have been looking toward Korean, Japanese, and Australian brands for innovative sunscreen products. Just something to think about.
Until my next review!
2 comments
Thanks for all this great info! I’ve been reading up on how some antioxidants, vitamin c in particular, can “boost” the SPF power if used in concert. If I use a vit C Serum before I put on my SPF in the morning, does that give me additional protection?
Hi Allyson – Yup, I have a little bit of info in the post regarding vitamin C coupled with sunscreens. If you happen to have a good vitamin C serum handy, I would certainly add it to your skincare routine before applying your sunscreen! Also, there are a few sunscreens out which include vitamin C within the formulation too!