Drunk Elephant T.L.C. Sukari Babyfacial Review

There’s really no need to go into great detail about this very basic component. Oddly enough, applying massive amounts of water onto the skin surface doesn’t actually hydrate – contrary to popular belief. It is that magical balance when hydrating components seeps under the skin’s surface is when we start to see benefits.

The other important thing to note is – when a product’s main component tends to be water – there can be issues of bacterial contamination or growth. Unless there is some ingredient that may counter this within the formulation stability – such as chelating agents.  

And behold!  This formulation does, in fact, have two chelating agents: trisodium ethylenediamine disuccinate and citric acid.

Bottom line: Water is neither here nor there. But if this mask is mainly JUST water with a tiny bit of ACTUAL ingredient – well then are we truly getting the most bang for our buck?

Glycolic acid and lactic acid are categorized as hydroxy/hydroxyl acids (HAs) –  or more specifically alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs or αHAs).  Glycolic acid is a constituent of sugar cane juice.

Overall, AHAs are generally used as mild exfoliants and skin conditioning agents in cosmetic products.  In some cases, they may also be used as pH adjusters. However, the most cited beneficial effects of hydroxy acids is its reported improvement of photoaged skin.  It functions by cleansing dead cells from the surface of the skin (chemical peeling effects) and by assisting moisturization.  

AHAs are absorbed by the skin.  The lower the pH, the greater the absorption.  According to the CIR panel assessment published in 1998, skin patch tests have been performed of glycolic acid and lactic acid at up to 10% concentration and were found to be non-irritating.  Therefore, to reduce the risk of skin irritation, the CIR Panel recommended limitations on the concentration of αHAs (<10%) and the pH (at or above 3.5) of cosmetic products containing αHAs.  

Thankfully, the folks at Drunk Elephant have stated on the website that the Babyfacial is formulated with their blend of acids at a pH level of 3.5-3.6.  The one unknown is the exact concentration of glycolic acid relative to the 25% of its AHA blend.

Bottom line:   Mild exfoliant and skin conditioning agents in cosmetic products.  The pH of 3.5-3.6 aligns with recommended published studies of at or above 3.5.

Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer is a synthetic polymer that functions as a dispersing agent (non-surfactant, emulsifiers/stabilizers, viscosity increasing agents).

Currently, this particular ingredient is supplied as a proprietary trade name.  And therefore, aside from the vendor’s transparency of data or information regarding the ingredient, peer-reviewed studies are limited.  However, in 2017, the CIR panel reported Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer to be non-irritating and non-sensitizing in a human irritation and sensitization assays, respectively.  

According to vendor claims, Hydroxyethyl Acrylate/Sodium Acryloyldimethyl Taurate Copolymer “smooths the texture and gives a glide-on and light feeling during application.  Stop shiny effect and restore the purity of your skin.” However, aside from its textural component to the product, I was not able to find added benefits when this ingredient is included in the formulation.

Bottom line:   Simply a synthetic polymer blend that functions as a dispersing agent.

Glycerin (or glycerol) is one of the oldest humectant agent (water attracting) ingredients used to assist in hydrating and moisturizing the skin surface. The idea of moisturizers and emollients are not only used to smooth the skin but to provide a defined supple appearance after repeated use.

A 1993 study evaluated the influence of glycerin, water, and various other skin mechanics to clarify the effects of short-term influence. The study showed that utilization of these skin mechanics induced significant changes in the mechanical properties of human skin in vivo even AFTER 10 minutes of application.   Wow!

However, a 2001 study evaluated the influence of a cream containing 20% glycerin and whether it affected the skin barrier function during repeat application. Yet, the study failed to show an influence of glycerin on human skin with respect to TEWL (transepidermal water loss) and skin sensitivity.

Yet, time and time again, glycerol has been evaluated for its role in skin hydration, cutaneous elasticity, and epidermal barrier repair. In fact, glycerol has a tendency to accumulate within the entire thickness of the stratum corneum. A review in 2008 concluded that glycerol’s three hydrophilic hydroxyl groups have the ability to bind and retain water, thus providing enhanced skin hydration.

Bottom line:   Glycerin is a humectant agent. Historically used for over 50 years in cosmetics to provide hydration and moisture to the skin.

Sodium hydroxide (SH) function primarily as denaturants and pH adjusters in cosmetics (used to raise pH values if need be).  

But be forewarned, in my experience with this corrosive material — it can be quite irritating as it is a very strong base.  And little does go a long way! You never want to have a strong percentage of sodium hydroxide anywhere near your skin.

In fact, in humans, SH was irritating at concentrations as low as 0.5%.  And depending on the concentration, SH can produce immediate coagulative necrosis resulting in considerable tissue damage with ulceration and sloughing.

In an efficacy study of skin protective creams, 20 human subjects were tested with 0.5% SH in aqueous solution.  The results yielded expected irritation. In a human repeat insult patch test (HRIPT), SH was not sensitizing when induced at up to 1.0% and challenged at 0.125%, but irritation was observed.

Bottom line:  Sodium hydroxide is a denaturant and pH adjuster with possible skin sensitivity and irritations.

Another member of the hydroxy acid group is salicylic acid.  Salicylic acid (SA) is best marketed as an anti-acne and anti-aging treatment but it also functions as a denaturant, hair-conditioning, and skin-conditioning agent.  Salicylic acid is found in the bark of the willow tree.

If you were wondering where the beta hydroxy acid (BHA or βHAs) portion of this product comes from – well, look no further than salicylic acid.  Although, there has been some debate regarding the clarity and truthfulness of this statement – whether it should be classified as a phenolic aromatic acid instead.  

Either way, SA are lipid (fat) soluble compounds that are effective at reducing the appearance of fine lines, wrinkles, and improving skin texture – with mild skin irritation.  SA also decreases secretion of sebum in patients with acne, which adds to its therapeutic effect in these patients. Overall, adding SA is often recommended for cosmetic products at concentrations <3% based on a 2009 study.  This aligns with the 2% SA concentration that the folks at Drunk Elephant states in its Babyfacial formulation.

The CIR Panel also recommends that effects on skin sensitivity to sunlight be considered in the formulation and use of products containing SA and salicylates.  In the past, the salicylates were often used in treating fever, pain, and inflammation. Salicylate is a natural salt or ester of salicylic acid – a famous component in various cosmetic/skincare products.

Salicin, the major constituent of the bark extract of the willow tree is metabolized to salicylic acid in vivo and is considered to play the main role in its anti-inflammatory and analgesic effects.  More importantly and most relevant to our examination of this ingredient; is that Salicin (based on unpublished clinical studies) is believed to have anti-aging capabilities when applied topically to human skin. A study in 2010, evaluated the effect of a topical serum formulation containing salicin at 0.5% on the visible signs of skin aging in 30 female subjects. The study concluded that salicin had the ability to reduce the visible signs of skin aging when applied topically. Twenty-nine of the 30 female subjects found statistically significant improvements in wrinkles, roughness, pore size, radiance, and overall appearance at the 1-week mark. Then continued to find statistically significant improvements in pigmentation, firmness, jawline contour at the 4-week mark and 12-week mark.

Standard chemical peel procedure studies have indicated that SA may be used at 20-30% in an ethanol base with interval peels of 2-4 weeks.  Various side effects based on patient sensitivity have been reported but may be managed with topical moisturizers.  

Bottom line:   Anti-aging, anti-acne, antioxidant and anti-inflammatory capabilities with studies which provide statistically significant anti-aging changes to skin with a serum formulation of 0.5%.  The ≤2% concentration of SA aligns with recommended published studies.

Aloe – well, that’s really simple.  We all know that aloe is one of those historical ingredients that have long since been used to soothe and nourish the skin.  Whether it be it from cuts or burns, from healing a nasty sunburn or just ingesting it for digestion issues – its used for just about everything!  But what do we really know about aloe?

Aloe vera extracts are rich in nutrients and according to the World Health Organization, is considered to be the most biologically active of the Aloe species – with 75 active constituents (including vitamins, minerals, saccharides, amino acids, anthraquinones, enzymes, lignin, saponins, and salicylic acids).

Ok, so it has a ton of important goodness!  But what does that really mean to us?  Well, a study in 2006 decided to evaluate that exact question – where they examined the effect of cosmetic formulations containing different concentrations of freeze-dried Aloe vera extract on skin hydration.  What they determined was that the aloe vera extract was a naturally effective means to improve skin hydration upon application and complemented any treatment against dry skin.

Bottom line:   Aloe is shown to improve skin hydration and maintain moisture.

Camellia Oleifera leaf extract is a plant-derived fatty acid tea oil (with origins from China) often functioning as a skin-conditioning, emollient and moisturizing agent in cosmetics.  This ingredient has been identified as safe.

In fact, a study published in 2017, characterized the fatty acid profile of camellia oleifera seed oil – looking at cytotoxicity, melanogenesis (the process of melanin production), and antioxidant activity.  The results indicated that camellia oleifera seed oil exhibited the inhibitory activity on melanogenesis and antioxidant activity if up to 3%. In addition, some recent studies have indicated that the extracts of the fruit shell of camellia oleifera have radical-scavenging abilities.

Bottom line:   Plant-derived fatty acid tea oil used as a skin-conditioning agent and emollient – with studies observing the inhibition of melanogenesis.  Camellia oleifera may have antioxidant and antiradical capabilities.

Lactobacillus/Pumpkin (Cucurbita pepo) ferment extract functions as a skin-conditioning agent.  The pumpkin extract is obtained through the fermentation process using lactobacillus.  

The fruit of the pumpkin itself is rich in β-carotene content and contains phenolic phytochemicals, proteins, and peptides.  Various medicinal properties of pumpkins have unearthed a plethora of benefits as being an antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory.  So it isn’t a complete shock when historically speaking pumpkins have been used for various cosmetic applications such as skin scrubber, body masque, body butter, massage oil, massage lotion and dry facial masques.  

However, new cosmetic application of pumpkin by way of fermentation is fairly recent.  At present, only vendors with proprietary blends seem to provide data boasting varying claims.  Therefore, no peer-reviewed data was found that focused on fermented pumpkin extract and its benefits relative to skin and cosmetic use.

Bottom line:   Has been said to function as a skin-conditioning agent.  Although, public data is not currently available at the time of this post that would support any vendor claims.

Lactobacillus/Punica Granatum (pomegranate) fruit ferment extract functions as an exfoliating agent.  The pomegranate extract is obtained through the fermentation process using lactobacillus.

Punica granatum is extracted from the pomegranate seed.  The oil, itself, is rich in punicic acid (65%) – a type of polyunsaturated fatty acid (PUFA).   Studies have demonstrated that pomegranate oil has chemopreventive efficacy in mice – reducing tumor incidences.  In addition, a study in 2009, observed the effects of pomegranate oil relative to photoaging.  The study discovered that pomegranate juice/extract/oil decreased UVB protein expression – thereby preventing skin cancer.  The study also concluded that pomegranate was effective in the preventative causation of biological aging elements such as DNA damage.

And finally, a 2013 study examined the skin lightening properties of pomegranate.  The group identified a polyphenolic compound (punicalagins) as the active melanin (skin pigmentation) inhibitor in pomegranate.  A natural skin lightening alternative to some of the more synthetic chemicals (such as hydroquinone) out there?

Yes, please!

Ok, we know that pomegranates have all these wonderful benefits.  But what about fermented pomegranate fruit? Well for starters, a study performed the fermentation process on pomegranates and found an increase in the concentration of free fatty acids, total polyphenolic compounds (for antioxidant activity), and concentration of ellagic acid (for antimicrobial activity). In addition, fermented pomegranate scavenged the reactive oxygen species (ROS – molecules typically generated by UV rays) generated by a hydrogen peroxide assay.

Similarly mentioned in pumpkin, new cosmetic application of pomegranate by way of fermentation is fairly recent.  At present, there is limited peer-reviewed research available which includes vendors with proprietary blends that provide data boasting varying claims. 

Bottom line:   Functions as an exfoliating agent with antioxidant, antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties.  

The Opuntia (Cactaceae family) species – more specifically, the cactus pear fruit has been considered a functional food; based on its bioactive compounds such as vitamin C and vitamin E, polyphenols, carotenoids, and flavonoid compounds (e.g., kaempferol, quercetin, and isorhamnetin).  A 2010 analytical study, evaluated the antioxidant constituents in cactus pear fruits and found that quercetin and isorhamnetin were the main flavonoids detected.  The study provided the basic framework on the presence of bioactive compounds and antioxidant capacity in extracts of cactus pear fruits. And in 2013 and 2015, additional antioxidant capacity studies evaluated the Opuntia forms (i.e. prickly pear) – confirming the presence of bioactive antioxidant components.

Next, a review in 2014 showed the presence of natural cactus compounds having anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, hypoglycemic, antimicrobial and neuro-protective activities.

And a cosmetic nanoemulsion containing an Opuntia extract was evaluated for its thermal stability and moisturizing efficacy.  The nanoemulsion (which contained 1% Opuntia extract and 0.5% xanthan gum) showed an increase in water content of the stratum corneum (layer of the skin) for 5 hours after application – with an overall stability for up to 60 days.

But one of THE most interesting (and relevant) studies conducted was in 2016, which investigated the capacity of lactic acid bacteria to increase the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties of cactus stems – in the form of lactic acid fermentation.  Cactus cladodes (stem segments) have become increasingly popular for their medicinal properties and prevention of varying diseases – and often a source of phenolics, fatty acids, and polyunsaturated fatty acids.  Ultimately, the study found that the process of lactic acid fermentation of cactus components actually enhanced the antioxidant and anti-inflammatory properties.

Bottom line:   Cactus extract are strong in antioxidant capacity; rich in polyphenols, flavonoids, and bioactive compounds.  And studies have shown when coupled with lactic acid – this nutrient and vitamin dense component may be amplified!

Pyrus malus (apple) fruit extract functions as a skin-conditioning agent in cosmetic products.  It is a rich source of various vitamins, trace elements, amino acids, and flavonoids due to which it acts as a humectant and provides moisturizing and viscoelasticity properties.  More specifically, pyrus malus (malus sylvestris) is composed of: quercetin, mineral substances, essential oil, enzymes, fruit acids, amino acids, vitamins, arabane, galactane, tannins, pectin, sugars, and wax.

According to a CIR assessment, a skin irritation and sensitization study was performed on 49 male and female subjects which used a product containing 8.78% of pyrus malus fruit water on their face and neck.  The study concluded that the product did not induce skin irritation or cause allergic contact dermatitis.

The CIR panel has deemed pyrus malus (apple) fruit extract as safe to be used at concentrations up to 1% in cosmetic products.

Bottom line:   Functions as a skin-conditioning agent and humectant.  

Silybum Marianum (milk thistle) seed extract often function as a skin-conditioning, emollient and moisturizing agent in cosmetics.  The active component of milk thistle is silibinin, also known as silybinin, which is usually derived from the seeds of the plant.  Silibinin is a compound from milk thistle plant which possesses strong antioxidant activity and also modulates many molecular changes, caused by ultraviolet radiation, to protect the skin.  

In addition, it was found to protect from photocarcinogenesis and sunburn, UVB-caused epidermal hyperplasia, UVB-caused DNA damage in skin epidermal cells, and provide as an anti-inflammatory agent.  

Bottom line:   Functions as a skin-conditioning agent, emollient, and moisturizing agent.  Its active component has been shown to provide anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, and photoaging protection.

Saccharomyces cerevisiae (Yeast) Extract (also known as baker’s yeast) is often used in cosmetic products as it has been shown to function under oxidative stress (a scientific marker for aging skin) and improve skin conditions.  A study in 2008, investigated the dermatological effects of cosmetic formulations containing saccharomyces cerevisiae extract in collaboration with vitamins A, C, and E.  What was observed was that the saccharomyces cerevisiae extract with vitamins formulation actually enhanced skin moisture and long-term effects with improved texture.

Who DOESN’T want THAT?!

In fact, Bath and Body Works even patented a cosmetic bio-chelated mineral and humectant blend.  The humectant blend composing of glycerin (70.7% to approximately 78.9% by weight), beet root extract (18.0% to 22.0% by weight), and Aloe barbadensis leaf polysaccharides (1.0% to 3.0% by weight).  The bio-chelated blend composing of six different minerals (containing silicon, magnesium, copper, iron, zinc, and calcium) – all obtained in the form of Saccharomyces cerevisiae extracts separately.  The patent language even claims that their humectant blend in combination with their bio-chelated mineral blend works synergistically to enhance the skin’s hydration level.

Hmmm, aloe PLUS saccharomyces cerevisiae extracts under fermentation states?!

Sound familiar?

I suppose when research is available and points to positive outcomes relative to specific ingredients – the beauty industry listens!

Bottom line:   Saccharomyces cerevisiae extracts is shown to improve skin hydration and maintain moisture.

Ok, you might be going through this ingredient list and noticed that “tartaric acid” isn’t listed.  And you are probably asking yourself, am I missing something? Did the folks at Drunk Elephant lie to me when they said this 25% AHA blend of glycolic, lactic, and citric acid – also included tartaric acid?  

Don’t worry.  Initially, I thought the same as well.  But tartaric acid is an organic acid that is naturally occurring in fruits such as bananas and citrus – but most notably, grapes! Hence, the vitis vinifera-derived or grape extract ingredient listed makes complete sense! The grape seed hydroethanolic extract is rich in polyphenols (proanthocyanidins).   The grape skin extract contains anthocyanins, tartaric acid, tannins, sugars, and minerals. And according to an assessment performed by the CIR panel, the amount of tartaric acid is roughly 15-20 ppm based on chemical constituents by plant part.  

Vitis vinifera juice extract functions as an antioxidant, colorant, skin-conditioning agent, and flavoring agent.  In an in vitro predictive model testing, a product containing 3% and 10% vitis vinifera fruit extract was a non-irritant in a dermal irritation test and non/minimally irritating in a viability assay, respectively.

To put it simply – it contains a strong amount of antioxidant capacity compared to Vitamin C and E – which is often a standard in the world of antioxidant-packed vitamins.  In 2004, oral administration of a proanthocyanidin rich extract from grape seeds for one year showed to effectively reduce the hyperpigmentation of women with chloasma (a form of dark discoloration often occurring during pregnancy).

Bottom line:   Strong antioxidant capacity, rich in polyphenols.

Camellia sinensis is the plant that brings us tea (ex: white, black, oolong, and green).  Camellia sinensis plant parts function as exfoliants, antioxidants, antimicrobial, cosmetic astringent, emollient, skin-conditioning and humectant agents.

Green tea generally exists as the actual loose leaves.  While matcha is its pulverized and more concentrated form.  The Chinese developed the roasting and pulverizing method of green tea leaves which results in the powdery consistency of matcha that we see today.  Go check out my in-depth post on green tea beauty here.

Various unpublished studies by the Personal Care Products Council and Clinical Research Laboratories utilizing camellia sinensis parts in human subjects were submitted.  For instance, a facial line filler treatment product containing camellia sinensis leaf extract (0.86%; black tea) was found to be non-irritating or sensitizing in a human repeated insult patch test (HRIPT).  An eye cream containing camellia sinensis leaf extract (0.86%; black tea) was found to be non-irritating or sensitizing in an HRIPT. And finally, in an HRIPT, a mascara containing camellia sinensis leaf water (30%) was found to be non-irritating or sensitizing.

Bottom line:   Functions as an exfoliant, emollient, humectant, and skin-conditioning agent.  It exhibits antimicrobial and antioxidant properties.

Cicer Arietinum (chickpea) seed powder is an interesting ingredient to include.  I’m not too sure as to WHY the folks at Drunk Elephant decided to add this into the formulation.

And aside from consuming chickpeas due to its obvious nutritional and health benefits based on a high content of protein and a lower content of carbohydrates as compared to wheat flour – there was no direct data to correlate any topical benefit or use.  

That being said, chickpeas are known for their medicinal properties.  In fact, a 2014 study isolated the antimicrobial proteins from Cicer arietinum, identified as C-25.  C-25 was found to be an effective antimycotic as well as anti-proliferative agent against human oral cancer cells.

Bottom line:   High protein content with antimicrobial proteins.  I’m still on the fence as to the purpose of including this particular ingredient within the formulation.

Ah yes, sclerocarya birrea seed oil.  Or to put it very simply, marula oil, its more widely known name.  The oil itself has been extracted for a variety of cosmetic purposes including skin moisturizing, maintenance of healthy skin, processing into soap, and hair care.  In fact, a clinical study evaluated varying properties of marula oil – looking at irritancy potential, occlusivity properties, moisturizing and hydrating effects.  Marula oil rich in fatty acids exhibits moisturizing, hydrating and occlusive properties. As the oil is non-irritating and provides a moisturizing effect with moderate prevention of transepidermal water loss, average moisture retention properties, and noteworthy occlusive effects; its inclusion in cosmetic products based on its traditional use may be justified depending on the application.

In fact, the therapeutic benefits of marula oil have been so widely researched that there is actually a patented formulation which can be applied topically in the vicinity of a wound or scar for treatment and prevention of formation of scar tissue.  Wow!

Bottom line:   Marula oil exhibits moisturizing, hydrating, and wound healing properties mediated by its fatty acid composition.

Passiflora edulis seed oil is passion fruit and is a plant-derived fatty acid oil.  Similar to buriti oil, passiflora edulis seed oil or maracuja oil often functions as a skin-conditioning agent and emollient in cosmetic products due to its relevant percentage of omega 3 and 6 which can help to restore skin maintenance.  More specifically, passion fruit seed oil has a high content of linoleic acid — which confirms the high percentage of omega 3 and 6 composition.

Currently, plant-derived oils are still considered safe with minimal reports of adverse reactions to the cosmetic use of edible fatty acid oils.  I could not find any outstanding clinical study or research indicating any issues with the direct use of passiflora edulis seed oil in cosmetic products.

Bottom line:   Passiflora edulis seed oil are considered safe and function primarily as skin-conditioning agent and emollient – with high omega 3 and 6 percentage derived from its high linoleic acid content.

Leuconostoc (Radish root ferment filtrate) or sometimes called Leucidal (Radish Root ferment) is an antimicrobial peptide derived from the lactic acid bacteria, Leuconostoc kimchi.

Kimchi!?  Like the fermented Korean vegetable product?

The fermented root has been reportedly used as a natural preservative alternative in formulating compounds. It is basically used to prevent bacterial growth that is often the after-effects of having enzymes and various acids in one’s formulation. Leuconostoc kimchi fermentation products are often patented as preservatives for cosmetics, and certain strains of this organism are reported to produce antimicrobial peptides (bacteriocins). The antimicrobial preservatives are widely used in cosmetics to extend shelf life and lower the risk of bacterial contamination which often includes simple aromatic derivatives such as salicylic acid. To further understand this natural preservative, a 2015 study examined and characterized the antimicrobial agents in commercial Leuconostoc/radish root ferment filtrates.

Bottom line:   Naturally derived preservative rooted (see what I did there) in providing antimicrobial applications – ideal for its moisturizing properties and skin/scalp conditioning.

Ah, hyaluronic acid (HA) or hyaluronan is the key molecule involved in skin moisture.  In this case, sodium hyaluronate which is the sodium salt of hyaluronan.  Hyaluronic acid is naturally found in our biological makeup. More specifically, skin HA accounts for most of 50% of total body HA. That’s a lot! And so, it is a key molecule in the fight against aging. And in the last five years (or longer) has exploded in its use and marketing capacity.

Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan (GAG) with a unique capacity to bind and retain water molecules.  Indeed, various studies suggest HA homeostasis exhibits a distinct profile in intrinsic (internal) skin aging, which is totally different from that in extrinsic (external) skin aging.

It’s important to note that a lot of cosmetic and beauty brands often state that hyaluronic acid is able to hold 1000 times its weight in water.  And while I scanned all avenues of scientific publications for this very information, I found nothing that credibly links this exact number to a particular study or research-based calculation.

In fact, what I did find in my scientific hunt, was that researchers have determined that approximately one (1) gram of hyaluronic acid can hold up to six (6) liters of water. 

Does size matter with hyaluronic acid?

HA exists as a high molecular weight (HMW) molecule (or HMW HA) with a large molecular volume and low molecular weight (LMW) molecule (or LMW HA) with a low molecular volume.

The average molecular weight of the HMW HA molecule is 1000–8000 kilodaltons (kDa).  As the molecule increases in polysaccharide chain length, so does the volume and its overall weight. So when we look at the low end of the size range, LMW HA is fragmented (or broken down) hyaluronic acid and is often identified as sodium hyaluronate (or the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid).  Of course, there are variations in names and descriptors from suppliers/vendors based on hyaluronic acid size.  So keep that in mind.

But what about sodium hyaluronate crosspolymer?  Is that different?

Nope.  It is a chemically cross-linked hyaluronic acid.  Hyaluronic acid chains are cross-linked to stabilize the polysaccharide in such a way as to not affect the molecule.  In addition, HA may be combined with other polymers to develop multifunctional copolymers. A clinical study published in 2014 investigated the cosmetic filling efficacy of products containing hyaluronic acid copolymer in decreasing the skin aging signs and in improving facial volume deficiencies.  The results demonstrated decreased clinical signs of skin aging and improvement in face volumes.

Either way, if a product is formulated with hyaluronic acid, and you are looking for a power-packed hydrating ingredient – it’s generally a good thing that this guy is on the label.  There are a myriad of studies that tout its skin-improving benefits:

• Topical application of HA has been seen in reducing wrinkles.
• A 2014 study, using nano (really, really, really small) hyaluronic acid demonstrated a significant benefit in decreasing the depth of wrinkles (up to 40%), and skin hydration (up to 96%) and skin firmness and elasticity were significantly enhanced (up to 55%) at the end of eight weeks.

Sold! You don’t have to tell me twice that this is an amazing ingredient to add to my skincare arsenal. There is definitely a positive synergy that occurs when incorporating HA. But, as with any ingredient, concentration levels and actual % amount to the overall formulation is always critical.

Hyaluronic acid has been deemed safe by the CIR panel at concentrations up to 2% as a skin conditioning agent in cosmetics. 

Bottom line: Skin conditioning and humectant ingredient with studies demonstrating an increase in skin hydration, wrinkle reduction, and overall skin firmness.

Sodium PCA is the sodium salt of PCA (pyroglutamic acid), a glutamic acid found in vegetables, fruits, grasses, and molasses.  PCA and its salts are reported to function in cosmetics as skin conditioning agents, humectants – with its intended use to increase the water content of the top layers of skin.

Based on a CIR assessment, a clinical study of dermal irritation using open patch test methods on various sites of the body, subjects had reactions to 6.25% sodium PCA applied to their backs and three volunteers developed erythema when concentrations of ≥12.5% sodium PCA were applied.  No reactions were observed when sodium PCA was applied to the skin of the forehead, cheek, or neck. A formulation containing 2.0% sodium PCA was negative in a mini-cumulative irritation test.

In other studies, no significant irritation was observed when 46 subjects were treated with 30% sodium PCA using open patch test methods.  Negative results were obtained when 46 volunteers were tested with concentrations up to 32% sodium PCA using occlusive patches.

Bottom line:   Functions in cosmetics as skin conditioning agents and humectants.  

Allantoin is a heterocyclic organic compound that functions as a skin-conditioning agent and humectant.  Allantoin is found naturally in the leaf buds of varying trees – more specifically in the comfrey plant (Symphytum officinale L.).  The main pharmacological activity of the comfrey root extract is to stimulate tissue regeneration, as an anti-inflammatory, an analgesic, and an astringent effect.

Some research has shown beneficial effects of allantoin – such as moisturizing and keratolytic effect, increasing the water content of the extracellular matrix and enhancing the upper layers of dead skin cells, increase in the smoothness of the skin, promotion of cell proliferation and wound healing, anti-irritant, and protective effects on the skin.  

Although it’s very important to note that most allantoin currently used in skincare products is not botanically derived but rather manufactured by the alkaline oxidation of uric acid in a cold environment.

Bottom line:   Allantoin is a skin-protectant with research pointing to its botanical effects to moisturize, increase water content, smooth, and promote cell proliferation.  

Dipotassium glycyrrhizate is the disodium salt of glycyrrhizate acid (material extracted from licorice) and often functions as a skin-conditioning agent in cosmetics.  

Glycyrrhiza Glabra Root (also known as licorice root) is actually a herb used traditionally in medicine to relieve ailments (such as bronchitis, allergies, sore throats, etc). But it’s also been used as an anti-inflammatory, antioxidant, antimicrobial, and even effects memory enhancement.

However, with respect to this review, it has been most notably used for its skin whitening, skin depigmentation, anti-aging, emollient, anti-acne, and photoprotection effects.

Wow! This root extract packs a lot of punch!

In fact, licorice actually contains a variety of bioactive compounds, such as flavonoids, amino acids, starches, and sugars; which affect its anti-inflammatory and antioxidant punch!

Bottom line: Multifaceted extract with antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, skin whitening, and emollient capabilities to name a few.

Dextrin is a polysaccharide gum produced by the incomplete hydrolysis of starch and functions as a viscosity increasing agent in cosmetic products.

Bottom line:   Dextrin is a viscosity increasing agent and is considered safe based on a CIR panel assessment.  Not much to be said here.

Polydextrose is a non-digestible oligosaccharide often used in the food industry.  Polydextrose provides similar physiological effects to other dietary fibers and has shown prebiotic potential.  Some studies have shown prebiotics are expected to cope with skin issues as inflammation and smell – with significant 91% success in a human trial study proving they can effectively decrease Propionibacterium acnes population and treat acne.  Its studies such as these that have fueled the flame to examine whether prebiotic substances may be applied to modulate any microbial community to achieve advantageous effects.  Meaning prebiotic substances may have the potential to provide as a gentle and sustainable alternative to undirected antibacterial ingredients which can cause irritation, and frequently show short time effects.

Bottom line:   Has often been used in the food industry and may have prebiotic modulation of microbiome relative to the cosmeceutical industry.

Sorbitan isostearate are sorbitan esters and function as surfactants and emulsifying agents in cosmetics.  

A 2002 report evaluated by the CIR panel, found sorbitan isostearate and sorbitan sesquiisostearate (10%) were non-irritating in a 24-hour patch test using 56 subjects.

Bottom line:   Sorbitan isostearate is a surfactant and emulsifying agent and is considered safe based on a CIR panel assessment.  Not much to be said here.

Amylopectin is the branched chain polysaccharide portion of starch and functions as a viscosity increasing agent in cosmetic products.

Bottom line:   Amylopectin is a viscosity increasing agent and is considered safe based on a CIR panel assessment.  Not much to be said here.

What can I say about Niacinamide.  There just seems to be so much information out there – that it often becomes quite overwhelming.  

But to try to summarize it briefly, niacinamide (or nicotinamide) is an amide of vitamin B3 (niacin or nicotinic acid).  It has been extensively researched and shown to have sufficient bioavailability – with antimicrobial, photo-protective, sebostatic (anti-acne), skin conditioning, and lightening effects depending on its concentration.

In fact, varying studies have found the following:

• A 2002 study investigated the effects of niacinamide on melanogenesis in vitro and on facial hyperpigmentation and skin color in vivo in Japanese women.  The study found that niacinamide significantly decreased hyperpigmentation and increased skin lightness.
• A 2004 study found topical application of niacinamide had a stabilizing effect on epidermal barrier function, seen as a reduction in transepidermal water loss, an increase in protein synthesis (e.g. keratin), stimulating effect on ceramide synthesis, speeds up the differentiation of keratinocytes, and raises intracellular NADP levels, improves the surface structure, smoothes out wrinkles and inhibits photocarcinogenesis.
• A 2005 study found significant skin appearance improvement effects for topical niacinamide: reductions in fine lines and wrinkles, hyperpigmented spots, red blotchiness, skin sallowness (yellowing), and elasticity was improved.
• A 2011 clinical study evaluated the therapeutic effect of topical niacinamide versus hydroquinone (HQ) in melasma patients.  All patients showed pigment improvement – with niacinamide inducing a decrease in pigmentation, inflammatory infiltrate, and solar elastosis.

Bottom line:   Niacinamide is an effective skin-conditioning agent, with antimicrobial, photo-protective, sebostatic (anti-acne), and lightening effects.  Helps in improving pigmentation, skin sallowness, elasticity and wrinkles, and increases skin lightness.

Phytosphingosine is a sphingoid that is a key component of phytoceramides and has been shown to have anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, dermal stimulating, and skin moisturizing activities.

We’ve all heard the term ceramides relative to skincare.  We’ve seen it marketed. But what does it all mean? Ceramides are the major lipid constituent of lamellar sheets present in the intercellular spaces of the stratum corneum (SC, skin layer). These lamellar sheets are thought to provide the barrier property of the epidermis.  It is important to note that most skin disorders that have a diminished barrier function present a decrease in total ceramide content. Therefore, formulations containing lipids identical to those in the skin, such as ceramide, could improve skin conditions. Ceramides (phytosphingosine) are essential constituents of the skin lipid barrier that protects the body from excessive water loss.

A 2017 study evaluated the synergy of phytosphingosine with epidermal growth factor (EGF) of females over the age of 35 and verified the clinical efficacy for anti-aging factors such as skin hydration, dermal density and thickness, length of fine wrinkles, and skin elasticity.

Bottom line:   Phytosphingosine has been shown to improve epidermal homeostasis by strengthening the permeability barrier function in the intercellular space of SC.

What can I say about lactic acid (or alpha hydroxyl/hydroxy acid, AHA)?  There is an abundance of information circulating around the blogosphere and academic arena with respect to lactic acid.  Some sing its praises – while others demonize its various problems. Lactic acid naturally occurs in sour milk, molasses, apples and other fruits.  Similar to glycolic acid, lactic acid is a mild exfoliant and skin-conditioning agent.  

Ok, what we know about AHAs, is this – it has been shown to moisturize the skin, make it smoother and create less wrinkled skin surfaces.  And in the case of lactic acid, optimal biologic activity in its L-form, is also used in various topical formulations to exfoliate the skin and also to provide anti-aging properties.

Whichever camp you subscribe to – one thing is fairly clear about using any lactic acid type product.  And that is simply – how much are you getting? Concentration is important with this baby. A study in 1996 evaluated alpha-hydroxy acid products, containing low (5%) and high (12%) concentrations to determine whether concentration levels modulate changes in both the epidermis and dermis.  What was observed was that cosmetic benefits from the use of alpha-hydroxy acids at 5% lactic acid modulated surface and epidermal changes. Whereas, 12% lactic acid influenced both the epidermis and the dermis layers.

To drive the point home, lactic acid concentration matters.  However, we do not know the exact concentration amount of lactic acid formulated in the T.L.C. Sukari Babyfacial product relative to the AHA blend.   All we know is that it is approximately 25% of the total formulation in combination with glycolic, tartaric, and citric acids.

Bottom line:   Lactic acid helps with skin moisture and creating smooth, less wrinkled skin.

Propanediol is corn derived and exists in two forms: 1,2-propanediol (propylene glycol or PPG) and 1,3-propanediol.  This ingredient is often used as a moisturizing agent or humectant. Since the ingredient list does not mention which particular form it used within the formulation – I’ll go ahead and supply information for both.

First, 1,2-propanediol (propylene glycol) has been flagged for a number of safety issues – with the most common being skin irritations and even carcinogenic but somehow does not fall under the scary toxic category of no-nos.

Similarly, its other form, 1,3-propanediol, has been flagged for a number of skin irritating issues yet is still frequently used within the industry.

However, both ingredients can be used safely at low dosage/concentration levels.  But since the list does not indicate the actual concentration of propanediol (nor its actual true form) – I would keep this in mind in terms of caution.

Bottom line:   Moisturizing agent but may cause skin irritations depending on the concentration level – which is unknown.

Citric acid is a naturally-occurring organic acid (AHA to be exact) present in many foods.  Ah, yes – another AHA to add to the formulation. Since I’ve already spoken about AHAs previously – I won’t go into extensive detail about it again.  

Citric acid often functions as a chelating agent, pH adjuster, moisturizing agent, mild exfoliant, and fragrance ingredient in cosmetic formulations.  In a 1988 study, citric acid was found to increase skin renewal rate and treat sun-damaged skin.  

But just to drive the point further home, regarding citric acid, varying studies found the following:

• A 1996 study evaluated the effects of AHAs on photo-aged human skin by clinical and microanalytic means.  Patients applied a lotion containing 25% glycolic, lactic, or citric acid (like what is included in this formulation? shocking!) to one forearm and a placebo lotion to the opposite forearm for an average of 6 months.  Treatment with AHAs caused an approximate 25% increase in skin thickness with improved quality of elastic fibers and increased density of collagen.
• A 1997 study examined the effect of 20% citric acid lotion, as compared with vehicle alone, on skin thickness and viable epidermal thickness.  Topical citric acid produces changes similar to those observed in response to glycolic acid, ammonium lactate, and retinoic acid including increases in epidermal thickness.

Bottom line:   Mild exfoliant, skin conditioning agent, chelating agent, and pH adjuster in cosmetic products.  Has been shown to increase elastic fibers, density of collagen, and skin thickness.

Titanium Dioxide is an inert, semiconducting material, which often exhibits photocatalytic activity in the presence of light.  

English, please?

Basically, it’s considered to be a “natural” material which can scatter UV and visible radiation – yet what is also astonishing is that titanium dioxide can also be absorbed at certain levels.  Absorption can often lead to adverse effects such as oxidative stress, cell damage, inflammatory responses, and genotoxic effects. Yikes! However, the effects are strongly mediated and dependent on the chemical and physical characteristics of titanium dioxide – such as size, purity, solubility, etc.  Since we as consumers are not privy to exact chemical amount/concentration/size that is generally formulated in products we purchase – this is certainly concerning!

Bottom line:   Overall titanium dioxide has been used in sunscreens since 1952.  However, the FDA has only recently approved its use in sunscreens since 1999.  So at this point, I’m not really clear as to why the folks at Drunk Elephant would include this in the formulation.

Trisodium Ethylenediamine Disuccinate is a chelating agent.  A what – you ask?!  Chelating agents often play a role in stabilizing a product from metallic impurities.  Metallic impurities can come from many different sources, primarily from the ingredients themselves.  Often times, impurities are naturally derived, such as water in this case. Chelating agents prevent deterioration and overall oxidation by binding and inactivating metallic ions.

This specific chelating agent is biodegradable and is selective towards problematic transition metals such as copper and iron compared to calcium and magnesium.

Bottom line:   Chelating agent used in stabilizing a formulation with metallic impurities  (be it naturally derived) – in this case, it would likely be water.

Polysorbate 60 mostly function as a non-ionic surfactant in cosmetics and are classified as safe.  Surfactants have been found to have effects on the permeability characteristics of several biological membranes including skin.  In fact, they have the potential to solubilize lipids within the stratum corneum. More specifically, non-ionic surfactants are able to emulsify sebum, thereby enhancing the thermodynamic coefficient of drugs and allowing it to penetrate into the cells more effectively.

Bottom line:   Surfactant, emulsifying, solubilizing agent, and penetration enhancer.

Caprylyl Glycol is often used as skin and hair conditioning agents, viscosity agents and preservatives in cosmetic products.  We know that this product seems to have a slew of naturally derived ingredients which often come with microbial issues.

And nobody wants microbes or bacteria in their product — am I right?!

Therefore, the use of caprylyl glycol as a preservative with conditioning properties doesn’t seem far-fetched.

And in a study published in 2016, researchers evaluated the synergy behind antimicrobial activity effectiveness and particle size (of the droplets) of combining caprylyl glycol and various other preservatives.  What researchers ultimately discovered, was the results showed a positive correlation between the antimicrobial activity of the preservative and the particle size of the emulsion droplets in the range of 100-900 nm.

Bottom line:   Caprylyl Glycol is likely used as a preservative (with conditioning properties) to thwart microbial issues within the formulation.

Another ingredient functioning as a biocide (preservative) in cosmetic products.  In a 2014 safety assessment, the Cosmetic Ingredient Review Expert Panel (Panel) noted that chlorphenesin was well absorbed when applied to the skin of rats; however, any safety concern was minimized because available data demonstrated an absence of toxicity.  However, the Panel concluded that chlorphenesin is safe in the present practices of use and concentration.

However, there have been cases reporting patients exhibiting dermatitis, facial eczema, and even burning after applying products formulated with Chlorphenesin.

Bottom line:   A preservative used to thwart growth of microorganisms in high water content formulated products.  But no real benefit to claims with potential for skin irritations.

Phenoxyethanol is a preservative used to inhibit the growth of microorganisms in cosmetic products.  Generally, a product formulated with high water content (is in this situation) is prone to the growth of microorganisms unless certain precautions or ingredients are added to thwart such problems.

However, overuse of preservatives within a formulation has also been shown to lead to increased incidences of contact allergy.  Therefore, adding these ingredients poses the question of whether it is truly worth it.

Current concentration use in cosmetics based on a CIR assessment has indicated that phenoxyethanol may be used at a range of ≤ 0.0002% to 1%.

Bottom line:   A preservative used to thwart the growth of microorganisms in high water content formulated products.  No real benefit to claims with potential for skin irritations.