Fenty Beauty Mattemoiselle Plush Lipstick Review

Octyldodecanol is a long chain saturated fatty alcohol.  Fatty alcohols occur in components of wax esters in plants and animals and are often used as emulsifiers, emollients, antifoaming agents, and surfactants.

In general, Octyldodecanol spreads easily when applied to the skin – leaving no visible trace of greasiness.  It is used as a carrier or vehicle and is sometimes a coupling agent for waxes. In this particular case, that seems to align with the ingredient list as Fenty Beauty includes candelilla wax,  microcrystalline wax, and carnauba wax.

In fact, a study published in 2007, examined the lipophilic character of five vehicles (which included octyldodecanol) and eight botanical oils (aloe vera oil, coconut oil, olive oil, grape leaf oil, hazelnut oil, jojoba oil, and safflower oil).

Lipophilic effect or lipophilicity is a compound’s ability to dissolve in fats, oils, and lipids.  What they discovered was that the most lipophilic effects were observed with octyldodecanol and oleyl alcohol as vehicles coupled with coconut oil, jojoba oil, and safflower oil as botanical oils – suggesting that these specific combinations could be effective dermal permeation enhancers.

Bottom line: Octyldodecanol is a carrier or vehicle with lipophilic (fat dissolving) properties coupled with specific botanical oils.  Octyldodecanol was ultimately observed as a potential dermal permeation enhancer.

Polyethylene (PE) is a polymer or ethylene monomers – basically many monomers which are molecules that can be linked together.  As a result, it is generally a large molecule with a fairly large molecular weight on average.

It is the most commonly used plastic and is historically used in packaging and manufacturing (such as plastic bags, plastic film, bottles, etc).  According to a 2007 safety assessment published by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review, in cosmetics; polyethylene is often used as an abrasive, adhesive, binder, emulsion stabilizer and nonaqueous viscosity-increasing agent.

The 2007 assessment concluded, that cosmetic-grade polyethylene used at targeted concentrations – did not contain any harmful toxins.  Since specific concentration and formulation is generally proprietary unless released by the individual company, we can only assume that compliance to these particular targets have been established.  Additionally, the panel also concluded that dermal absorption of any expected impurities due to reactants was insignificant due to the large molecular size of polyethylene. Therefore, it is concluded as safe.

Bottom line:   If used in cosmetics, Polyethylene often functions as emulsifying stabilizers.  Although classified as “safe”, it still warrants observation. How are we sure whether the polyethylene concentration in this formulation is set at a “safe” level?

There is no shortage of wax ingredients listed in this formulation, which coincides with claims of this lipstick line’s ability to blend easily with its no bleeding promise.

But what is candelilla wax?   Candelilla wax is a plant-based or vegetable wax produced from the stems of the Mexican weed Euphorbia Cerifera.  Like carnauba wax, candelilla is often used as a thickening agent and emollient in cosmetic formulations.  It is composed of 35% esters and 50% hydrocarbons – therefore, softer than carnauba wax (composed of 85% esters) and often produces a glossy finish.

Overall, it has often been safely formulated in lipsticks, lip balms, and creams for its glossy finish.  But, in 2013, a woman with a history of atopic dermatitis developed cheilitis (a form of allergic dermatitis which can develop on the lips).  Patch testing was performed on her revealed a response to a lip balm – with further testing proving candelilla wax as the source. Discontinuing use of the lip balm provided resolution to the development of cheilitis. Now this is certainly a specific response and most individuals may not have such a sensitivity to candelilla wax — but this is definitely something to aware of.

Yikes!

Bottom line:   Often used as a thickening agent and emollient.  Candelilla wax provides a glossy finish in lipsticks, lip balms, and creams.  In some patients with a history of atopic dermatitis and sensitivities, this ingredient may pose an issue.

According to the Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel, aluminum starch octenylsuccinate is the aluminum salt of the reaction product of octenylsuccinic anhydride with starch.  It is often used as an anticaking agent, viscosity-increasing agent, and non-aqueous thickening agent.

One interesting bit of information which was published in 1991, was the observance of enhanced sun-protection (by as much as 40%) with 5% addition of aluminum starch octenylsuccinate to a formulation containing 1% titanium dioxide.  Unfortunately, the percent of aluminum starch octenylsuccinate is unknown in this lipstick. However, IF there is a slight possibility that it is close to 5% with as much as 1% titanium dioxide (which is also included in this ingredient list) — then wouldn’t that be amazing to have added sun-protection inadvertently?

Bottom line:   This ingredient is often used as an anticaking agent, viscosity-increasing agent, and nonaqueous thickening agent.  It has been reported to enhance the sun-protecting factor of sunscreen formulations (i.e. products with titanium dioxide).

Silica is abundant and makes up of 26% of the Earth’s crust by weight.  It is found primarily in rocks, sand, and clay. Sounds a lot like Mica, huh?  In fact, mica is a form of silica! Along with clay (as mentioned before), quartz, emerald, talc, glass, etc.

In its purest form – silica is unable to exist in its natural state due to its propensity to react with the atmosphere (i.e. Oxygen).  Therefore silica – is actually silicon dioxide.  And generally speaking, there are two forms of silica – crystalline and amorphous.  At present, the amorphous form processed synthetically; is traditionally used in cosmetics as an absorbent, anti-caking agent, and suspending agent.

Did you know that it is the third most abundant trace element in the human body?  And silicon has been suggested that to improve skin strength and elasticity and pivotal in collagen synthesis?  And it is suggested that a higher silicon content in the hair results in a lower rate of hair loss and increased brightness.  Well, now you do!

In fact, in a study of women aged 40 to 65 with typical signs of photoaging — intake of a bioavailable form of silicon supplements saw a significant improvement after 20 weeks in skin surface characteristics and in its mechanical properties.  The study also observed significant improvement in the fragility of nails and hair compared to the placebo group after a nine-month period.

Bottom line:  Silica (or silicon) is safe as it is clearly an abundant element within nature AND your body.  And with studies pointing to its positive effects on skin elasticity and improvement in photo-aged skin — this is certainly a win, win!

This is a wax derived from petroleum and characterized by the fineness of its crystals in contrast to the larger crystals of paraffin wax.  Waxes are often used in skin and lip care cosmetic products due to their excellent skin tolerance as well as their high protecting and cleansing performance and broad viscosity options.

In fact, a review published in 2017, evaluated 13 in vivo (human and animal) and in vitro studies investigating overall dermal penetration of mineral oil and waxes.  The review concluded that mineral oils and waxes are 1) absorbed to the upper layer of the skin (stratum corneum), 2) minor fraction is actually absorbed deep within the skin layer, 3) there is no evidence that its percutaneously absorbed (organ absorbed), and 4) cosmetic use is unlikely to represent a systematic human health risk after long-term exposure.

Another important detail is that the average molecular weight of microcrystalline wax ranges between 500-800 g/Mol (Da).  This is important due to the 500 Dalton rule – which I will go into further detail in another post.  But briefly, based on an article published in 2000; under the 500 Da rule, it is thought that all common contact allergens are under 500 Da and larger molecules (greater than 500 Da) are typically non-irritating.  Of course, this would be a difficult rule to test out entirely – as all compounds can’t possibly be categorized based on molecular weight and tested for specific dermal sensitivities.

Bottom line:  So based on this review, how are waxes beneficial to this formulation? If we take into account that it provides a nice protective shield (as wax tends to do) and is relatively safe based on reviews and research — then it does make sense as to why Fenty Beauty would include wax.  However, this type of wax is certainly up for discussion as I could not find finite published benefits.

Not much peer-reviewed research was dedicated or available for this ingredient focused as it pertains to its cosmetic benefits or lack thereof.

Overall, this is an alkyl ester often produced synthetically.  It is a nonvolatile oil often recommended as a replacement for volatile silicones for its reducing capabilities of mineral oils and waxy ingredients.  In other words, the purpose in this formulation behind isodecyl neopentanoate is to balance the greasiness that comes from all the waxy components listed while still maintaining mild “tackiness” (i.e. good penetration).  According to the CIR, it is often used as a skin conditioning agent or emollient.

Bottom line:   Skin conditioning agent or emollient.

Hydrogenated Polycyclopentadiene is a synthetic resin and according to a patent applied in 2004, is a long-wear oil-soluble film former that improves the adhesion and substantivity of the cosmetic film to the skin, lips, eyelashes, hair, or nails.  It also improves the water-resistance of the film. And apparently, these claims are most relevant when the use of this component is coupled with a glossing agent.

But again, not much peer-reviewed research was found or available for this ingredient focused as it pertains to its cosmetic benefits or lack thereof.  As a result, the only information that could be extracted was from specific vendors that synthesize hydrogenated polycyclopentadiene (for example Kobo Products, Inc.).

Bottom line:   Long-wear oil-soluble film former that improves the adhesion and substantivity of the cosmetic film to the skin, lips, eyelashes, hair, or nails.  It also improves water-resistance, rub-resistance, and stability of the film, imparts gloss and helps suspend pigments.

According to a CIR assessment, isohexadecane is an isoparaffin or paraffin often used as an emollient in cosmetics.

It’s important to note that a 2-week study evaluating the safety of a tan-enhancing spray containing 42% isohexadecane in 30 volunteers, found the following adverse reactions:

• Mild itching of forehead (in 1 out of 4 participants)
• Burning sensation in left eye (in 1 out of 4 participants)
• Mild tingling and itching of arms, chest, shoulders, and face (in 1 out of 4 participants)
• Mild tingling of cheeks (in 1 out of 4 participants)

However, in this study, the changes observed in participants tested were deemed to be not clinically significant.

But overall, limited relevant peer-reviewed publications were found or available.  Hence, much of the information seemed to stem from specific vendors synthesizing isohexadecane – most referencing to it as a clear, colorless, and odorless liquid providing high emolliency, ease of spreadability and moisturizing properties.

Bottom line:   Overall, the CIR panel has deemed isohexadecane as safe to be used as an emollient or skin-conditioning agent.

Isononyl Isononanoate is classified as an emulsifier and most recently been identified as a cosmetic “contact allergen”.  So what does this mean?  Basically, it’s often a delayed reaction to a particular product often resulting in dermatitis.  It can come from any type of product and has often been a thorn in the cosmetic industry – as many consumers tend to produce sensitivities to a degree of varying ingredients.  These ingredients can often range from preservatives, antioxidants, skin-conditioning agents, fragrances, and finally to emulsifiers such as isononyl isononanoate.

Unfortunately, most consumers do not become aware of such sensitivities until they have been exposed to the particular product/ingredient that causes said reaction.

Bottom line:   Generally used as an emulsifier in cosmetic products but may have the potential to cause some sensitivities as it is considered a contact allergen.

What is mica?  Mica is one of the most abundant and common minerals available within the Earth’s crust – often classified as scrap, flake, or sheet mica.  Historically speaking, mica has been used in a host of various purposes through construction, pharmaceutical, and electrical industries. And in that time, exposure to mica dust in mining, processes, and production have raised many questions to its adverse health effects due to inhalation.  It is often used typically as a colorant – like that in eye shadows, creams, etc.

One interesting thing to note is that Fenty Beauty does not indicate whether the mica used is naturally sourced or synthetically processed.  If the concept of their business model reflects clean, natural beauty – the one would have to assume that mica is most certainly sourced organically.  Yet, if we rely on the list of labeled ingredients alone – you should not make that assumption.

A 2008 study determined that a mica substrate coated with iron oxide (which was further coated with colorless titanium dioxide) had a high chroma pearlescent pigment.  In fact, the study assessed that strategic layering of mica + iron oxide + colorless titanium oxide resulted in high chroma pearlescent pigment.

But what is this high chroma business, you ask?  To put it simply, the 2008 study observed that the chroma in aged skin decreased, while youthful skin maintained high chroma levels.  Yet the study did not reference or indicate how it determined chroma levels. And during my search – I was not able to find any linked studies, which correlate chroma levels relative to skin and aging.  So until I find additional information to link that correlation, I am taking it with a grain of salt.

However, since this product includes all three ingredients (mica, iron oxide AND titanium dioxide) – it would certainly explain its slightly pearlescent sheen when used.  Giving you that lit from within glow!

Bottom line:  Overall Mica is safe and has been historically used for various purposes.  The only concern with this particular form of mica is not necessarily knowing whether it was naturally sourced or synthetic.  However, with trifecta ingredients of mica+iron oxide+titanium dioxide, we know that Fenty Beauty was certainly looking at maximizing some sort of pearlescent result; likely attributing to its brightening claims.

Lecithin is often the trade name for a mixture of phosphatides (or phospholipids) typically used in the food and cosmetic industry.  Lecithin is the gummy material contained in crude vegetable oils and removed by degumming.

Most commonly seen such as “soybean lecithin or soy lecithin”.  I’ve astutely become aware of this ingredient as it is generally a major component in most chocolates.  Soybeans are the most commercially sourced in order to create the lecithin by-product.

Now back to why this is used.

In a study published in 2010, a lecithin nanoemulsion (or fancy term for small-scale formulated mixture) which consisted of snake oil (yikes!), soybean lecithin, glycerol, and water were evaluated for its topical delivery effectiveness.  The study observed that the mixture improved skin hydration capacity significantly by 2.5 fold – inhibiting water evaporation from the skin.  The study further attributed the increase in skin hydration due to the nanoemulsion (mixture) barrier.

However, it is important to note that according to an assessment by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel, clinical irritation studies were performed and 65% of the cosmetic formulations containing 0.3-3% lecithin were generally non-irritating.

Bottom line:  Overall, lecithin often functions as skin and hair conditioning agents, emulsifiers and surfactants in cosmetics.  It is effective in providing superior skin hydration and helpful for improving permeation effects.

Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate is a fatty acid ester and function as skin-conditioning, emollient agents, and/or surfactants in cosmetics.  Based on the individual vendors (for example: here and here with specific trade names) which provide this ingredient, it is often considered to provide excellent dispersing properties for pigments – which speaks to the claims of long-term staying power and long-wear color cosmetics.

Since we do not know where polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate is being sourced, overall use and claims cannot be verified as it is slightly broad.

Bottom line:   Polyglyceryl-3 Diisostearate is an emollient agent with skin-conditioning properties.  Depending on the particular vendor, specific properties of the ingredient may be further observed.

Polymethyl methacrylate (PMMA) are polymers that function as film formers and viscosity-increasing agents in cosmetics.

From what I could find, there have been no specific patch tests reported with lipsticks formulated with polymethyl methacrylate. The only clinical dermal patch tests that have been observed were reported with mascara and brow pencils with PMMA.  The result of the patch tests revealed that there was no indication of cumulative skin irritation or sensitization of PMMA.

Similar to polyglyceryl-3 diisostearate, depending on where this ingredient is being sourced,  use and claims may vary slightly. However, most vendors have indicated that the use of this particular active ingredient provides an improvement in texture – offering a creamy, blendable formulation.

Bottom line:   Polymethyl methacrylate is a film former and viscosity-increasing agent in cosmetics.  Overall, regulation of this ingredient follows strict safety and regulations of medical devices.  Some vendors have indicated that the use of this particular active ingredient provides an improvement in texture – offering a creamy, blendable formulation.

Dimethicone/Bis-isobutyl Ppg-20 Crosspolymer functions as a skin-conditioning agent, emollient, and viscosity-increasing agent.

Based on the CIR panel review, dimethicone crosspolymers are typically supplied to finishing houses as swollen gels (such as trade name mixtures) that contain various oils (like silicone oils such as dimethicone).  However, not much peer-reviewed research was found or available for this ingredient as it pertains to its cosmetic benefits or lack thereof. As a result, the only information that could be extracted was from specific vendors that synthesize dimethicone/bis-isobutyl ppg-20 crosspolymer and the CIR safety assessment.

One important note from the CIR assessment was based on an irritation test performed using dimethicone/bis-isobutyl ppg-20 crosspolymer in isodecyl neopentanoate.  No irritation was observed. However, erythema (reddening of the skin) was observed on days 1, 3, and 5. This product happens to have isodecyl neopentanoate –  so that’s something worth noting.

Bottom line: Functions as a skin-conditioning agent, emollient, and viscosity-increasing agent.  May cause some milk erythema (reddening of the skin) in combination with isodecyl neopentanoate.

Tocopheryl acetate is also known as Tocopherol – which is the most prevalent form of Vitamin E in plant seeds and products derived from corn, sesame seed, sunflower, olive oils, and a plethora of nuts.

Most of the tocopherols are reported to function in cosmetics as antioxidants or skin conditioning agents. In fact, a 2003 study, evaluated whether the combination of topical vitamin C and E was better for UV protection to the skin than an equivalent concentration of each – alone.  The study concluded that each (in their own right) were significant antioxidants in the protection from skin damage. However, the combination of both C and E provided superior synergy against the likes of skin cancer and photoaging.  Further detailed information regarding tocopherol as a major lipid-soluble chain-breaking antioxidant of membranes and an important cellular protectant against oxidative damage was provided in a 2014 safety assessment.

It is also interesting to note that in 1999, a study found that topical vitamin E applied on scars provided no benefit (in 90% of the cases) to the cosmetic outcome of scars after skin surgery.   And it even noticed that 33% of the patients treated, developed contact dermatitis to the vitamin E.

Overall, tocopherol is the predominant form of vitamin E in human and animal tissues, and it has a high bioavailability.  The safety assessment recognized that tocopherol has some absorption in the UV range.  However, it was noted that according to animal and clinical testing, tocopheryl acetate was not photoallergenic or phototoxic.

Bottom line:  Strong antioxidant capacity.  Best if formulated with Vitamin C ingredients but may be a potential for dermatitis.

According to a CIR review, Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is an ether/ester of ascorbic acid.  To put it simply, it is a stable form of oil-soluble vitamin C ester.  And based on various vendor information, may prove to have excellent skin penetration and increased anti-aging properties (cell protection against UV-B.  Overall, it functions as an antioxidant, skin-conditioning agent, skin protectant, fragrance ingredient, and skin bleaching agent in cosmetic products.

Thus far, a few clinical reports have tested tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate in moisturizers and creams.  All clinical studies reported insignificant beneficial changes with application. No clinical studies have been reported which tested tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate in lip products, unfortunately.

Bottom line:   Tetrahexyldecyl Ascorbate is an oil-soluble vitamin C with primary functions as a skin-conditioning agent and skin protectant amongst many other properties.  However, based on research performed — statistically significant evidence of the beneficial properties were negligible.

Passiflora edulis seed oil is passion fruit and is a plant-derived fatty acid oil.  Similar to buriti oil, passiflora edulis seed oil or maracuja oil often functions as a skin-conditioning agent and emollient in cosmetic products due to its relevant percentage of omega 3 and 6 which can help to restore skin maintenance.  More specifically, passion fruit seed oil has a high content of linoleic acid — which confirms the high percentage of omega 3 and 6 composition.

Currently, plant-derived oils are still considered safe with minimal reports of adverse reactions to cosmetic use of edible fatty acid oils.  I could not find any outstanding clinical study or research indicating any issues with direct use of passiflora edulis seed oil in lip products.

Bottom line:   Passiflora edulis seed oil are considered safe and function primarily as skin-conditioning agent and emollient – with high omega 3 and 6 percentage derived from its high linoleic acid content.

Like it’s similar counterpart (candelilla wax), carnauba wax is considered a plant-based or tree wax obtained from the palm tree Copernicia prunifera.  It is composed of 85% esters – and therefore, it is one of the hardest natural waxes available and often used to thicken makeup.  It is often found in lipsticks, eyeshadows, mascaras, and eyeliners due to its emollient properties and thick finish.

However, like its counterpart (candelilla wax), it is not without its problems.  In fact, the first reported case of allergic contact dermatitis caused by carnauba wax was in 2013.  A woman presented contact dermatitis affecting the lips after using a lip balm.  Confirming patch test results from the lip balm ingredients revealed that the positive reaction was a result of carnauba wax.

Bottom line:   Often used as a thickening agent and emollient.  Carnauba wax provides a glossy finish in lipsticks, lip balms, and creams.  In some patients with a history of atopic dermatitis and sensitivities, this ingredient may pose an issue.

There’s really no need to go into great detail about this very basic component. Oddly enough, applying massive amounts of water onto the skin surface doesn’t actually hydrate – contrary to popular belief. It is that magical balance when hydrating components seeps under the skin’s surface is when we start to see benefits.

The other important thing to note is – when a product’s main component tends to be water – there can be issues of bacterial contamination or growth. Unless there is some ingredient that may counter this within the formulation stability – such as a chelating agent.

Bottom line: Water is neither here nor there. And since water is not listed as one of the first ingredients — this addition doesn’t seem to do much for this lipstick formulation.

Disteardimonium Hectorite is an ammonium hectorite which functions as a non-surfactant suspending agent in cosmetics.  What does that mean?   Well, hectorite is grouped under clay-based minerals – more specifically, smectite clays.  But overall, use of this ingredient is as an emulsifier and stabilizer with light textures based on varying vendor claims.

There were no published absorption, toxicity, or carcinogenicity studies discovered nor were unpublished data provided.  However, a quick academic of the CIR assessment revealed that a clinical patch test performed in 2008 of a cosmetic pre-formulation containing disteardimonium hectorite (at approximately 15%) was conducted on patients with varying skin types.  The patch test revealed no signs of observed irritation.

Bottom line:   In the end, this is a clay-based emulsifier which functions as a stabilizer in cosmetic products.

Similar to isodecyl neopentanoate, not much peer-reviewed research for this ingredient focused as it pertains to its cosmetic benefits or lack thereof was available.

Overall, this is an alkyl ester often produced synthetically.  It is a nonvolatile oil often recommended as a replacement for volatile silicones for its reducing capabilities of mineral oils and waxy ingredients.  So, the purpose in this formulation behind octyldodecyl neopentanoate is to balance the greasiness that comes from all the waxy components listed while still maintaining mild “tackiness” (i.e. good penetration).  According to the CIR, it is often used as a skin conditioning agent or emollient.

Bottom line:   Skin conditioning agent or emollient.

Propylene Carbonate is a synthetic ester of propylene glycol and carbonic acid and functions as a viscosity decreasing agent in cosmetics.  Unfortunately, not much peer-reviewed research could be uncovered regarding this ingredient aside from what most vendors provide.

If we look at the propylene glycol component – then it can be said that PPG has been flagged for a number of safety issues – with the most common being skin irritations and even carcinogenic but somehow does not fall under the scary toxic category of no-nos.  However, PPG can be used safely at low dosage/concentration levels. But since the list does not indicate the actual concentration of propylene carbonate – I would keep this in mind in terms of caution.

Either way, I could not find any solid data or research that would contribute to the benefits of this component added to the formulation relative to the overall effects to its claims.

Bottom line:   This functions as a viscosity decreasing agent with possibilities for skin irritations.

Ah, hyaluronic acid (HA) or hyaluronan is the key molecule involved in skin moisture.  In this case, sodium hyaluronate which is the sodium salt of hyaluronan.  Hyaluronic acid is naturally found in our biological makeup. More specifically, skin HA accounts for most of 50% of total body HA. That’s a lot! And so, it is a key molecule in the fight against aging. And in the last five years (or longer) has exploded in its use and marketing capacity.

Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan (GAG) with a unique capacity to bind and retain water molecules.  Indeed, various studies suggest HA homeostasis exhibits a distinct profile in intrinsic (internal) skin aging, which is totally different from that in extrinsic (external) skin aging.

It’s important to note that a lot of cosmetic and beauty brands often state that hyaluronic acid is able to hold 1000 times its weight in water.  And while I scanned all avenues of scientific publications for this very information, I found nothing that credibly links this exact number to a particular study or research-based calculation.

In fact, what I did find in my scientific hunt, was that researchers have determined that approximately one (1) gram of hyaluronic acid can hold up to six (6) liters of water. 

Does size matter with hyaluronic acid?

HA exists as a high molecular weight (HMW) molecule (or HMW HA) with a large molecular volume and low molecular weight (LMW) molecule (or LMW HA) with a low molecular volume.

The average molecular weight of the HMW HA molecule is 1000–8000 kilodaltons (kDa).  As the molecule increases in polysaccharide chain length, so does the volume and its overall weight. So when we look at the low end of the size range, LMW HA is fragmented (or broken down) hyaluronic acid and is often identified as sodium hyaluronate (or the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid).  Of course, there are variations in names and descriptors from suppliers/vendors based on hyaluronic acid size.  So keep that in mind.

Either way, if a product is formulated with hyaluronic acid, and you are looking for a power-packed hydrating ingredient – it’s generally a good thing that this guy is on the label.  There are a myriad of studies that tout its skin-improving benefits:

• Topical application of HA has been seen in reducing wrinkles.
• A 2014 study, using nano (really, really, really small) hyaluronic acid demonstrated a significant benefit in decreasing the depth of wrinkles (up to 40%), and skin hydration (up to 96%) and skin firmness and elasticity were significantly enhanced (up to 55%) at the end of eight weeks.

Sold! You don’t have to tell me twice that this is an amazing ingredient to add to my skincare arsenal. There is definitely a positive synergy that occurs when incorporating HA. But, as with any ingredient, concentration levels and actual % amount to the overall formulation is always critical.

Hyaluronic acid has been deemed safe by the CIR panel at concentrations up to 2% as a skin conditioning agent in cosmetics. 

Bottom line: Skin conditioning and humectant ingredient with studies demonstrating an increase in skin hydration, wrinkle reduction, and overall skin firmness.

Caprylyl Glycol is often used as skin and hair conditioning agents, viscosity agents and preservatives in cosmetic products.  We know that this product seems to have a slew of naturally derived ingredients which often come with microbial issues.

And nobody wants microbes or bacteria in their product -- am I right?!

Therefore, the use of caprylyl glycol as a preservative with conditioning properties doesn’t seem far-fetched.

And in a study published in 2016, researchers evaluated the synergy behind antimicrobial activity effectiveness and particle size (of the droplets) of combining caprylyl glycol and various other preservatives.  What researchers ultimately discovered, was the results showed a positive correlation between the antimicrobial activity of the preservative and the particle size of the emulsion droplets in the range of 100-900 nm.

Bottom line:  Caprylyl Glycol is likely used as a preservative (with conditioning properties) to thwart microbial issues within the formulation.

Calcium Sodium Borosilicate often functions as bulking agents, preservatives and skin-conditioning agents in cosmetic products.  It is essentially a synthetic product formed by the fusion of boron oxide, silica, sodium oxide, and calcium oxide.

However, not much peer-reviewed research was found or available for this ingredient focused as it pertains to its cosmetic benefits or lack thereof.  As a result, the only information that could be extracted was through specific vendors that synthesize calcium sodium borosilicate and the CIR safety assessment.

And based on the CIR assessment, three reported human repeat insult patch tests were performed containing calcium sodium borosilicate and observed no signs of irritation or sensitization.

Bottom line:   Function as bulking agents, preservatives and skin-conditioning agents in cosmetic products.

Synthetic Fluorphlogopite is a synthetic mimic of a natural mineral (mica-type) that functions as a bulking agent and viscosity-increasing agent.  It is a fluorine-substituted mineral partially composed of magnesium aluminum silicate sheets.

Again, not much peer-reviewed research was found or available for this ingredient focused as it pertains to its cosmetic benefits or lack thereof.  As a result, the only information that could be extracted was through specific vendors that synthesize calcium sodium borosilicate and the CIR safety assessment.

And based on the CIR assessment, two reported human dermal patch tests were performed containing synthetic fluorphlogopite in distilled water and observed no irritation.  And one in vitro skin model test was performed and concluded that synthetic fluorphlogopite had a lack of irritant potential

Bottom line:   Functions as a bulking agent and viscosity-increasing agent.

Much like calcium sodium borosilicate, calcium aluminum borosilicate often function as bulking agents, preservatives and skin-conditioning agents in cosmetic products.  It is essentially a synthetic product formed by the fusion of boron oxide, silica, sodium oxide, aluminum oxide, and calcium oxide.

However, not much peer-reviewed research was found or available for this ingredient focused as it pertains to its cosmetic benefits or lack thereof.  As a result, the only information that could be extracted was through specific vendors that synthesize calcium sodium borosilicate and the CIR safety assessment.

And based on the CIR assessment, reported human repeat insult patch test was performed containing calcium aluminum borosilicate and observed no adverse effects or evidence of sensitization.

Bottom line:   Function as bulking agents, preservatives and skin-conditioning agents in cosmetic products.

Polyethylene Terephthalate or PET is the main ingredient in clear plastic containers and often used in beverages and condiments.

Polyethylene Terephthalate (the plastic) and phthalate (the additive) sound similar  – but the substances themselves are chemically dissimilar. Ok, first – PET is often used as an exfoliant, bulking agent, hair fixative, and viscosity-increasing agent.  The Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel confirmed the FDA’s assessment which likened PET safety in cosmetics as compared to a medical device category.

Now the issue of plastics and plastic containing materials is a widely and heated topic for debate – best left to be discussed in its own separate post.  But for now, the real question is — why is PET in my lipstick formulation?

Or more importantly, why would Fenty Beauty include this classified “endocrine disruptor” in ITS formulation??!!

But with all the issues arising nowadays with plastics — why include this at all?  What are the benefits?!

First, I was shocked as much as you.  And personally, in the last year or so, I’ve slowly curated a “minimal plastics” household.  I know that the reality is that plastics are in everything. It’s our containers, our bags. In fact, a small portion of receipts contains a percentage of plastics nowadays!  So to realize that companies MAY be incorporating PET-like material INTO a formulation had me curious.

In 2009, the American Chemistry Council asserted that PET bottles were not a source of endocrine disruptors.  Yet, a study published in 2010, evaluated whether there was evidence that bottles made from PET could leach various phthalates which were identified as endocrine disruptors.  The study concluded that leaching varied but that the contents of the bottle, pH of the product, and temperature all contributed. In 2012 the EPA issued an action plan of its investigation on phthalates relative to toxicity and human exposure.  Now I know that phthalates are essentially the likely culprit to worry about – but I can’t help but be a little apprehensive about having this ingredient in the formulation list.

Especially, I wasn’t able to find any definable benefit for its use relative to the product claims.  However, based on the CIR assessment, some mild adverse effects were reported when PET was tested of eyeshadows, gels, liners, and mascaras.

Bottom line:   Function as an exfoliant, bulking agent, hair fixative, and viscosity-increasing agent.  May result in some mild adverse effects based on application.

Acrylates copolymer functions as a film former, binder, and suspending agent.

Not much peer-reviewed research was found or available for this ingredient focused as it pertains to its cosmetic benefits or lack thereof.  As a result, the only information that could be extracted was from specific vendors that synthesize acrylic copolymers and the CIR safety assessment.

And based on the CIR assessment, irritation and sensitization tests performed with acrylic polymer dust observed no excess of abnormalities or pulmonary fibrosis.  However, no specific acrylic copolymer clinical studies were reported in order to provide a definable benefit or lack thereof.

So my take on this?  This is classified as safe, yes.  However, it is certainly debatable as it all depends on how this particular ingredient is manufactured and its safety may be vendor specific.

Bottom line:   Function as a film former, binder, and suspending agent.

Tin Oxide is an inorganic oxide and is the dioxide of tin.  It functions as an abrasive, bulking and opacifying agent in cosmetic products.

Again, not much peer-reviewed research was found or available for this ingredient focused as it pertains to its cosmetic benefits or lack thereof.  However, according to the CIR assessment, several clinical tests were performed.

A skin irritation and sensitization test was performed using powder eyeshadow containing approximately 0.3% of tin oxide.  No reactions were observed and it was concluded that the material did not have skin irritation or allergic contact sensitization potential.

Most important to our evaluation was a skin irritation and sensitization test performed on 103 completed subjects of a lipstick containing 0.5% tin oxide.  No reactions were observed and it was concluded that the test material did not have the potential for causing dermal irritation or allergic contact sensitization.

Another skin irritation test was performed of a lipgloss containing 0.35% tin oxide of 108 completed subjects.  No reactions were observed and it was concluded that the test material did not demonstrate a clinically significant potential for eliciting dermal irritation or sensitization.

Bottom line:   Functions as an abrasive, bulking and opacifying agent in cosmetic products with various clinical studies performed demonstrating no significant irritations.

Just dyes/pigments – nothing much to discuss here.  Is approved per the Personal Care Products Council and the FDA in the US.

To reiterate what I said earlier regarding mica, titanium dioxide and iron oxides were layered in this formulation to take advantage of the 2008 technique of sandwiching mica+iron oxides+titanium dioxides to create a high chroma pearlescent pigment.

Titanium Dioxide is an inert, semiconducting material, which often exhibits photocatalytic activity in the presence of light.

English, please?

Basically, it’s considered to be a “natural” material which can scatter UV and visible radiation – yet what is also astonishing is that titanium dioxide can also be absorbed at certain levels.  Absorption can often lead to adverse effects such as oxidative stress, cell damage, inflammatory responses, and genotoxic effects. Yikes! However, the effects are strongly mediated and dependent on chemical and physical characteristics of titanium dioxide – such as size, purity, solubility, etc.  Since we as consumers are not privy to exact chemical amount/concentration/size that is generally formulated in products we purchase – this is certainly concerning!

Bottom line:  Overall titanium dioxide has been used in sunscreens since 1952.  However, the FDA has only recently approved its use in sunscreens since 1999.  So at this point, Fenty Beauty is likely using these three ingredients of mica+iron oxide+titanium dioxide; with the intention of maximizing some sort of pearlescent results.  Therefore, attributing to its dewy and glowing claims.

CI 77491 (Red iron oxide), CI 77492 (Yellow iron oxide), CI 77499 (Black iron oxide)

Iron oxides are naturally sourced but synthetically processed.  Therefore, most “natural” marketed beauty companies tend to utilize iron oxides in their formulations due to this “naturally” derived colorant source.  Depending on the type of iron oxide, some varieties may have varying trace metals. Due to heavy regulations imposed by the FDA, iron oxides are generally safe as the trace amounts of metal are likely low.

Bottom line:  Synthetically processed but naturally-sourced ingredient used as a colorant or pigment in cosmetics.  Although they do contain trace metals, due to heavy FDA regulations, the amount of allowable iron oxides in products is safe for consumers.