MARA Algae + Moringa Universal Face Oil Review

Moringa oleifera is a plant-derived fatty acid seed oil which often functions as a skin-conditioning, emollient and moisturizing agent in cosmetics.  Moringa oleifera oil possesses anti-inflammatory/antioxidant/antibacterial properties and has been shown to prevent cardiovascular diseases and breast cancer.  Indigenous to Northern India and the Middle East, components of the moringa oleifera tree have been used for various nutritional and therapeutic purposes.

These components include its leaves, seeds, and seed oil which contain the following:

• Rich in proteins, vitamins (A, B, C, and E), minerals (potassium, phosphorus, sodium, zinc, magnesium, and calcium), β-carotene and antioxidant compounds.
• A significant amount of oil (up to 40%) with a high fatty acid composition (such as oleic acid > 70%).  The seeds are known to resist oxidative degradation post refining process.
• A fatty acid (vitamin F) composition of the following according to the CIR panel:
  • Oleic acid (65-80%), an omega-9 fatty acid
  • Linoleic acid (1.5-5%), an omega-6 fatty acid
  • Linolenic acid (1-1.5%), an omega-3 fatty acid
  • Palmitic acid (5-9.3%)
  • Stearic acid (3-8%)

More relevant to the skin, a 2014 study evaluated the facial revitalization effect of a cream formulation containing the moringa oleifera leaf extract on humans.  The active cream contained 3% of the concentrated extract of moringa leaves as compared to a controlled base cream (with no extract).  The study evaluated parameters such as skin surface/volume/texture and found that the active cream showed the following:

• Significant effects on skin volume, texture parameters (energy, variance, and contrast) and SELS, SEr (skin roughness), SEsc (skin scaliness), SEsm (skin smoothness), and SEw (skin wrinkles).

The study concluded that moringa cream enhances the skin revitalization effect and supports anti-aging skin effects.

In addition, the CIR panel reported the following study with respect to irritation and sensitivity:

A human repeat insult patch test (HRIPT) of 0.01% moringa oleifera seed oil in a cleansing oil rinse-off solution was performed with the following results:

• Results:
  • 3 out of 4 participants had questionable reactions
  • 1 out of 4 participants had erythema with no edema of damage to the epidermis
  • The study concluded that moringa oleifera seed oil was not a sensitizer.

Another thing to note is that the CIR panel assessed that the concentration use of moringa oleifera seed oil is at 0.001% in leave-on products.  This ingredient has been identified as safe per CIR assessment.

Bottom line:  Moringa oleifera seed oil functions as a skin-conditioning, emollient and moisturizing agent in cosmetics.  It possesses anti-inflammatory/antioxidant/antibacterial/anticancer properties.

The grape seed hydroethanolic extract is rich in polyphenols (proanthocyanidins).   The grape skin extract contains anthocyanins, tartaric acid (a form of alpha hydroxy acid), tannins, sugars, and minerals. And according to an assessment performed by the CIR panel, the amount of tartaric acid is roughly 15-20 ppm based on chemical constituents by plant part.

Vitis vinifera juice extract functions as an antioxidant, colorant, skin-conditioning agent, and flavoring agent.  In an in vitro predictive model testing, a product containing 3% and 10% vitis vinifera fruit extract was a non-irritant in a dermal irritation test and non/minimally irritating in a viability assay, respectively.

To put it simply – it contains a strong amount of antioxidant capacity compared to Vitamin C and E – which is often a standard in the world of antioxidant-packed vitamins.  In 2004, oral administration of a proanthocyanidin rich extract from grape seeds for one year showed to effectively reduce the hyperpigmentation of women with chloasma (a form of dark discoloration often occurring during pregnancy).

Bottom line: Strong antioxidant capacity, rich in polyphenols.

According to a comprehensive analysis of seed oils performed in 1992, sunflower oil contains high levels of vitamins A, D, and K – with crude sunflower oil having the highest content of vitamin E in the form of α-tocopherol amongst oils.

In a randomized study in 2013, sunflower seed oil preserved stratum corneum integrity (that’s skin talk) – and improved hydration in volunteers who applied it topically after 4 weeks. Oddly enough, the study also found that in contrast; topical treatment of sunflower oil WITH olive oil significantly damaged the skin barrier, and therefore had the potential to promote the development of and exacerbate existing atopic dermatitis.  Thankfully, the MARA Algae + Moringa Universal Face Oil does not include olive oil.

And finally, helianthus annuus sunflower seed oil has a fatty acid composition of the following according to the CIR panel:

• Oleic acid (14.7-37.2%), an omega-9 fatty acid
• Linoleic acid (51.5-73.5%), an omega-6 fatty acid
• Linolenic acid (0.3%), an omega-3 fatty acid
• Palmitic acid (5-7.2%)
• Stearic acid (2-6.5%)

Bottom line:  High vitamin E content for improved hydration.

Linum usitatissimum (linseed or flax) is a plant-derived fatty acid seed oil which often functions as a skin-conditioning, emollient and moisturizing agent in cosmetics.  Indigenous to Europe, Asia, and the Mediterranean region; linum usitatissimum seed oil has been used for wound healing, as a moisturizer, dermal antioxidant, and the prevention of photoreactive damage.

In fact, a 2012 study investigated the effects of a semisolid formulation of linseed oil (at 1%, 5%, or 10%) as compared to a natural linseed oil control on skin wounds of rats.  The study observed that topical administration of the semisolid linseed oil formulation (at 1% or 5%) in wounds allowed reepithelialization in 100% of treated animals.  As a result, the study concluded a therapeutic potential of linseed oil. More specifically, when used at low concentrations, the solid pharmaceutical formulation suggested signs of dermal repair.

Linum usitatissimum seed oil has a fatty acid composition of the following according to the CIR panel:

• Oleic acid (19.1%), an omega-9 fatty acid
• Linoleic acid (15.3%), an omega-6 fatty acid
• Linolenic acid (57%), an omega-3 fatty acid
• Palmitic acid (5.5%)
• Stearic acid (3.5%)

In addition, the CIR panel reported the following study with respect to irritation and sensitivity:

A human repeat insult patch test (HRIPT) of 9.4% linum usitatissimum (linseed) seed oil in mascara was performed with the following results:

• Results:
  • The study concluded that linum usitatissimum (linseed) seed oil was not a dermal irritant or sensitizer in 105 participants.

Another thing to note is that the CIR panel assessed that the concentration use of linum usitatissimum seed oil may be used at 0.001-10% in leave-on products.  This ingredient has been identified as safe per CIR assessment.

Bottom line:  Linum usitatissimum seed oil functions as a skin-conditioning, emollient and moisturizing agent in cosmetics.  Studies have shown therapeutic potential for dermal repair, wound healing, moisturizer, dermal antioxidant, and photoreactive damage.

Vaccinium myrtillus (bilberry) is a plant-derived fatty acid seed oil which often functions as a skin-conditioning, emollient and moisturizing agent in cosmetics.  Indigenous to mountainous areas of Europe and Asia, vaccinium myrtillus is a dwarf shrub with berries that are rich in phenolic compounds (such as anthocyanins).  Anthocyanins are known to have anticancer, antioxidant, and antimicrobial effects.

Vaccinium myrtillus seed oil has a fatty acid composition of the following according to the CIR panel:

• Oleic acid (17.4-23%), an omega-9 fatty acid
• Linoleic acid (35-47.5%), an omega-6 fatty acid
• Linolenic acid (23.1-40%), an omega-3 fatty acid
• Palmitic acid (4.8-7.4%)
• Stearic acid (2.2-2.5%)
• Myristic acid (2.2-2.5%)

In addition, the CIR panel reported the following study with respect to irritation and sensitivity:

A human repeat insult patch test (HRIPT) of 1% vaccinium myrtillus seed oil in a facial oil was performed with the following results:

• Results: 
  • The study concluded that vaccinium myrtillus seed oil was not a dermal irritant or sensitizer in 116 participants.

Another thing to note is that the CIR panel assessed that the concentration use of vaccinium myrtillus seed oil may be used at 0.01-0.1% in leave-on products.  This ingredient has been identified as safe per CIR assessment.

Bottom line:  Vaccinium myrtillus seed oil functions as a skin-conditioning, emollient and moisturizing agent in cosmetics.

Capric Triglyceride or Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (CCT) is an emollient ester that was deemed as a safe ingredient to use in products per a safety assessment conducted in 1980 per the CIR panel.

Well, it’s been quite some time since 1980. And I am willing to bet that there have been cases reported and studies performed relative to this particular ingredient. In fact, most recently in 2017, the same CIR safety panel decided to re-evaluate and assess caprylic/capric triglyceride based on current clinical and animal data. And although the verdict isn’t necessarily in, I would be willing to bet the final assessment will deem this product safe as the origins of this ingredient come from benign oils.

Back to CCT (or sometimes known as caprylic acid) is a specific fraction of coconut/palm oil fatty acids – resulting in a stable form of esters. But how is this ingredient relevant to me?!

First, caprylic acid has been found and studied to have superior medical potential in anti-cancer, anti-Alzheimer’s, anti-Autism, and providing general circulatory improvement. But it also has potential beneficial applications as an anti-aging ingredient. Yessss!

Bottom line:  Emollient ingredient derived from coconut and palm oil. Known for its skin-conditioning and anti-aging capabilities.

Alaria esculenta extract (or winged kelp) is brown algae which function as a skin-conditioning agent, antioxidant, binder, hair conditioning agent, oxidizing agent, and viscosity increasing agent in cosmetics.  It generally grows on rock in wave-exposed places; forming a band in shallow waters.

Overall, marine algae contain rich-sources of metabolites, which can be used to fight against oxidative stress and skin aging.  These metabolites may include mycosporine-like amino acids (MAAs), polysaccharides, sulphated polysaccharides, glucosyl glycerols, pigments, and polyphenols.  MAAs from algae have anti-photoaging activities and are often formulated in skincare products. Marine algae are also chock full of fatty acids and proteins. In fact, a 2014 study examined the protein, amino acid, lipid, and fatty acid composition in red, green, and brown algae.  The results of the fatty acid analysis indicated that alaria esculenta contains the following most abundant fatty acids: 

• Polyunsaturated fatty acid such as omega-3 (linolenic acid and linoleic) and omega-6 (linoleic):  33.2%
• Monounsaturated fatty acid such as omega-9 (oleic): 25.4%

Fatty acids have been shown to improve skin hydration and elasticity.  And studies have concluded that fatty acids (such as linolenic acid) contained in a majority of these oils create a film on the skin which reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL), thus contributing to maintaining the correct hydration of the epidermis.

There are two trademarked alaria esculenta extract ingredients both mixed with caprylic/capric triglyceride and manufactured by SEPPIC: Kalpariane® AD and Juvenessence® AD.

• Kalpariane® AD is a preservative-free extract of brown algae (alaria esculenta extract) with caprylic/capric triglyceride.  SEPPIC claims the following:
  • Increases firmness and elasticity of the skin when used at a recommended dose of 1% in a formulated product.
  • 70% of the volunteers found an improvement of the hydration level after 28 days.
  • 90% of volunteers perceive improvement of firmness.
  • Collagen III: +24% and Hyaluronic acid: +24%.
• Juvenessence® AD is a preservative-free extract of brown algae (alaria esculenta extract) with caprylic/capric triglyceride.  SEPPIC claims the following:
  • Made up of a web of elastic fibers, which preserves tissue integrity against compression & ensures cohesion & firmness.
  • After 1 month, improvements include: elasticity (+20%) and firmness (+25%)
  • Decreases the depth of wrinkles: 80% of volunteers
  • Downregulates progerin for mature skin (-79%)
  • Increases firmness and elasticity of the skin when used at a recommended dose of 1% in a formulated product.

Downregulation of progerin (a biomarker used in the expression of normal cellular aging) was observed in a 2011 study, which provided evidence showing that alaria esculenta extract was able to counterbalance the disequilibrium in progerin production observed during aging. The tested algae extract was able to significantly reduce the progerin production of ‘aged’ fibroblasts (44–66 years old donors), with a maximal effect at the lower tested concentration of 0.005% (v/v).

Wow!

And in 2012, a study performed an evaluation of melanosome (specialized organelles that produce the photoprotective pigment melanin in the skin) transfer as an effect of alaria esculenta extract.  Melanosome transfer is essential for visible pigmentation as well as photoprotection.  The study utilized a model to show that a whitening cosmetic active compound (an alaria esculenta extract) enabled a significant decrease in melanosome transfer to produce a lightening effect without affecting melanin production.

Double wow!

In addition, the CIR panel has deemed alaria esculenta extract as safe.

Bottom line:  Alaria esculenta extract functions as a skin-conditioning agent, antioxidant, oxidizing agent, and viscosity increasing agent in cosmetics.  Has been shown to improve skin elasticity, firmness, pigmentation, photoprotection, and general signs of aging.

Similar to alaria esculenta extract, plankton (or phytoplankton) is a type of marine algae-derived from the ocean (of course).   There are different plankton varieties ranging in size and source. Marine microalgae are a rich source of proteins, polyunsaturated fatty acids (PUFAs), carotenoids, polysaccharides, vitamins, and sterols.  Plankton derived products have been used for anticancer, antibacterial, and photoprotection/repair purposes.

In fact, plankton extracts contain DNA repair enzymes, photolyases.  DNA photolyases are light-driven DNA repair enzymes that reverse genome-damaging effects caused by ultraviolet (UV) radiation.  It is because of photolyase that plankton extracts are novel ingredients that have been incorporated into sunscreens for its photoprotective and photo repair abilities.  These enzymes occur in all living organisms exposed to sunlight, with the exception of placental mammals.

Too bad we don’t naturally have photoprotective enzymes in our bodies!

Interesting enough, a 2019 study evaluated an antipollution and anti-aging suncare product in vitro, ex vivo, and clinical studies.   The product was a water-based SPF50 facial suncare formulation containing a combination of the following:

• Organic and inorganic UV filters (butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane, ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate, ethylhexyl triazone, and titanium dioxide)
• A potent combination of antioxidants (tocopheryl acetate, tocopherol, butylated hydroxytoluene, ascorbyl palmitate, ascorbic acid)
• Source of DNA repair enzyme photolyase (plankton extract)
• Pollutant protective and anti-aging ingredients (sodium hyaluronate, palmitoyl tripeptide-38, and pentapeptide-34 trifluoroacetate).

The results from the 2019 study observed the following as compared to non-irradiated samples (control):

• The product provided high protection against sunburn cell (SBC) formation.
• Inflammatory and oxidative stress responses were lower in treated than untreated skin.
• Product use led to a decrease in brown spots and a decrease in UV spots.
• Firmness increased significantly by 14.1%.
• Participants reported skin was more even in tone (80%), more moisturized (93%), and firmer (74%).

Overall, the water-based suncare product containing the plankton extract derived enzyme, photolyase, provided protection and repair action against pollution and UV-induced skin aging.

There were many trademarked compounds that combine plankton extract with other ingredients.  However, I found one trademarked plankton extract only ingredient manufactured by biogründl: Sea Plankton Extract.  No science-based research was revealed with respect to this compound other than the following:  Hydrating, protector, nutritive, regenerative, vulnerary.

Bottom line:  Like most marine-derived plants, plankton extract is a rich source of proteins, PUFAs, carotenoids, polysaccharides, vitamins, and sterols.  Plankton extracts contain DNA repair enzymes, photolyases, which reverse genome-damaging effects caused by UV radiation.

Again, another plant-derived fatty acid oil – but this particular tree claims its origins from Africa.  As we mentioned earlier, plant-derived fatty acid oils are widely used in cosmetics – mainly for its skin conditioning, emollient and moisturizing properties.

Interesting enough, I have slowly seen baobab-composed products in the last few years.

And I always wondered, “what is baobab? And what a strange name!”

It turns out, baobab is recognized for its high nutrient and polyphenol content. in fact, baobab oil has been shown to be a  good source of macro and micronutrients with potassium (K) being the most predominant element – followed by magnesium (Mg), calcium (Ca) and phosphorus (P).

In fact, a 2013 study evaluated baobab fruit extract to confirm its use in reducing starch digestion in vitro.  This response would illuminate the potential for reducing glycemic response, increasing satiety,  and diet-induced thermogenesis in humans.

A 2017 study established the seed fatty acid composition of each Adansonia species using gas chromatography (GC). And the oils of all baobab species contain three major fatty acids: palmitic, oleic and linoleic acids.

And finally, adansonia digitata seed oil has a fatty acid composition of the following according to the CIR panel:

• Oleic acid (30-40%), an omega-9 fatty acid
• Linoleic acid (24-34%), an omega-6 fatty acid
• Linolenic acid (1-3%), an omega-3 fatty acid
• Palmitic acid (18-30%)
• Stearic acid (2-8%)

Bottom line:  Although somewhat of an unknown, baobab is slowing making its presence in all facets of the industry.  Due to its macro/micro-elements and its physicochemical properties – it functions mainly for its skin-conditioning, emollient and moisturizing properties.

Citrullus lanatus (watermelon) is a plant-derived fatty acid seed oil which often functions as a skin-conditioning, emollient and moisturizing agent in cosmetics.  Originally native to the Kalahari desert of Africa, it is now cultivated in tropical regions of the world. Not only is watermelon a delicious sweet fruit largely consumed during those hot summer months, but its beneficial effects include its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and vasodilatory properties.  Watermelon is enriched with lycopene, ascorbic acid (vitamin C), carotenoids, flavonoids, β-carotene (a precursor to vitamin A), and citrulline.

Citrullus lanatus seed oil has a fatty acid composition of the following according to the CIR panel:

• Oleic acid (15-30%), an omega-9 fatty acid
• Linoleic acid (55-65%), an omega-6 fatty acid
• Palmitic acid (8-13%)
• Stearic acid (8-12%)

In addition, the CIR panel reported the following study with respect to irritation and sensitivity:

A human repeat insult patch test (HRIPT) of 2% citrullus lanatus seed oil in a facial oil was performed with the following results:

• Results:  
  • The study concluded that citrullus lanatus seed oil was not a dermal irritant or sensitizer in 105 participants.

Another thing to note is that the CIR panel assessed that the concentration use of citrullus lanatus seed oil may be used at 2% in leave-on products.  This ingredient has been identified as safe per CIR assessment.

Bottom line:  Citrullus lanatus (watermelon) seed oil often functions as a skin-conditioning, emollient and moisturizing agent in cosmetics.

Bergamot oil (Citrus bergamia) is often used in manufacturing for its aroma and therefore, formulated for its natural fragrance.   The oil itself consists of a volatile (93–96% of total) and a non-volatile (4–7% of total) fraction.  The volatile fraction includes monoterpene limonene (25–53%), linalool (2–20%), linalyl acetate (15–40%), γ-terpinene, and β-pinene.  And as we all know — limonene, linalool, and linalyl acetate are shown to have anti-inflammatory effects.

Overall, bergamot oil has been reported to demonstrate antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, neuroprotective, and analgesic activity.

But it is also important to note that bergamot oil has seen side effects such as photosensitivity.

Bottom line:  Bergamot oil provides antibacterial, antifungal, anti-inflammatory, neuroprotective, and analgesic activity.  There may be some side effects such as photosensitivity.

Various studies have suggested that citrus aurantium used for aromatherapy purposes showed a decrease in anxiety and stress levels. So whether these citrus oils are simply added to calm your anxious senses and mind as part of the skincare treatment process – we will never know.  But the fragrance and aroma offers such a relaxing component – don’t you think?

Bottom line:  Used for its aroma and stress/anxiety reduction. Strong anti-inflammatory effect.

Tocopherol is the most prevalent form of vitamin E in plant seeds and products derived from corn, sesame seed, sunflower, olive oils, and a plethora of nuts.

Most of the tocopherols are reported to function in cosmetics as antioxidants or skin conditioning agents.  In fact, a 2003 study, evaluated whether the combination of topical vitamin C and E was better for UV protection to the skin than an equivalent concentration of each – alone. The study concluded that each (in their own right) were significant antioxidants in the protection from skin damage. However, the combination of both C and E provided superior synergy against the likes of skin cancer and photo-aging. Further detailed information regarding tocopherol as a major lipid-soluble chain-breaking antioxidant of membranes and an important cellular protectant against oxidative damage was provided in a 2014 CIR safety assessment.

It is also interesting to note that in 1999, a study found that topical vitamin E applied on scars provided no benefit (in 90% of the cases) to the cosmetic outcome of scars after skin surgery.  And it even noticed that 33% of the patients treated, developed contact dermatitis to the vitamin E.

Overall, tocopherol is the predominant form of vitamin E in human and animal tissues, and it has a high bioavailability. The CIR safety assessment recognized that tocopherol has some absorption in the UV range. However, it was noted that according to animal and clinical testing, tocopheryl acetate was not photo-allergenic or phototoxic.

Bottom line: Strong antioxidant capacity. Best if formulated with Vitamin C ingredients but may be a potential for dermatitis.