EM Cosmetics Color Drops Serum Blush Review

According to a CIR assessment, isododecane is an isoparaffin or paraffin often used as an emollient in cosmetics.

It’s important to note that limited relevant peer-reviewed publications were found or available.  Hence, much of the information seemed to stem from specific vendors synthesizing isododecane – most referencing to it as a clear, colorless, and odorless liquid providing high emolliency, ease of spreadability and moisturizing properties.

It’s important to note that a 2010 PCPC closed patch study of 20 participants using a mixture containing 40% isododecane and 60% trimethylsiloxysilicate caused skin irritations in 2 out of 19 participants.  So keep that in mind.

Similar to isododecane, isohexadecane (another isoparaffin) is also an emollient in cosmetics.  In fact, a 2-week study evaluating the safety of a tan-enhancing spray containing 42% isohexadecane in 30 volunteers, found the following adverse reactions:

• Mild itching of the forehead (in 1 out of 4 participants)
• Burning sensation in the left eye (in 1 out of 4 participants)
• Mild tingling and itching of arms, chest, shoulders, and face (in 1 out of 4 participants)
• Mild tingling of cheeks (in 1 out of 4 participants).

However, in this study, the changes observed in the participants tested were deemed to be not clinically significant.

Bottom line:   Overall, the CIR panel has deemed isohexadecane as safe to be used as an emollient, solvent, and fragrance agent.  One study observed patients with slight irritation from isododecane mixed with trimethylsiloxysilicate which EM Cosmetics Color Drops Serum Blushes contains.

Hydrogenated polyisobutene (HP) stems from the polyene group and functions primarily as film formers and viscosity increasing agents in cosmetics.   Hydrogenated polyisobutene is produced from the polymerization of isobutene; which is then hydrogenated, purified, and super-refined before yielding the final product.

So far, a 2009 Lipo Chemical study found no adverse effects in human subjects following irritation studies of a formulation containing 8% hydrogenated polyisobutene.  In fact, data from the study indicated that application of the emulsion formulation containing either HP or capric/caprylic triglyceride (CCT) significantly elevated skin moisture content and thus reduced transepidermal water loss (TEWL) by a maximum of 33% against the control formulation within 3 hours (and was subsequently maintained up to 6 hours).

Overall, the PCPC has indicated that hydrogenated polyisobutene has the highest reported concentration of use at up to 95% in lipsticks.

Some important CIR panel assessments to note:

• No primary skin irritation was produced in a 72-h primary skin irritation patch test study with 100% hydrogenated polyisobutene in 25 male and female participants.
• No irritancy observed in humans during a 24-h single-insult patch test with a lip gloss containing 66.11% hydrogenated polyisobutene.
• No reactions greater than slight erythema in a repeat-insult patch tests performed to evaluate the primary irritancy/sensitization potential of formulations containing 1.44% or 4% hydrogenated polyisobutene in 54 male and female subjects.
• No irritation or sensitization was found in human skin patched with a makeup remover containing 51% hydrogenated polyisobutene.
• No sensitization was found in a Draize repeat insult patch test of 200 subjects containing up to 100% hydrogenated polyisobutene.
• No response was reported of formulations evaluated containing 1.44% or 4% hydrogenated polyisobutene to determine their potential to induce a photoallergic reaction in the skin of 30 subjects.
• Phototoxic potential may be found (but no significant reactions were actually reported) of cosmetic foundations/concealer products containing 4% hydrogenated polyisobutene or 1.44% hydrogenated polyisobutene based on a blank patch under UVA light source (320 to 400 nm) studied in 26 fair-skinned volunteers.

Bottom line:   Hydrogenated polyisobutene functions primarily as film formers and viscosity increasing agents in cosmetics.  A study observed a formulation containing either HP or CCT significantly elevated skin moisture content and reduced TEWL by a maximum of 33% against the control formulation within 3 hours (and was subsequently maintained up to 6 hours).

Like hydrogenated polyisobutene, hydrogenated polydecene stems from the polyene group and functions primarily as film formers and viscosity increasing agents in cosmetics.

A 2007 Amore Pacific study investigated the optimum combination of polyols (glycerin and butylenes glycol) and oils (equal parts hydrogenated polydecane, cethyl ethylhexanoate and pentaerythrityl tetraethylhexanoate) in moisturizing cosmetic products to improve the human skin (via moisturization and skin surface roughness).  Ninety-eight (98) subjects were tested and the study observed that water content of the skin correlated with ratios of polyol (up to 30%) and oil (up to 12%) concentrations. The study observed that polyol:oil ratios impacted the following:

• High water content of the skin (30:12 and 25:30)
• Improved skin surface roughness (30:6 and 30:35).

Sadly, this study is irrelevant to EM Cosmetics Color Drops Serum Blushes as glycerin, butylene glycol, or any other polyols are not included within the formulation.

Bottom line:   Hydrogenated polydecene functions primarily as film formers and viscosity increasing agents in cosmetics.   There was one study which observed skin improvements in combination with other polyols (such as glycerin and butylene glycol).  However, this study does not apply to EM Cosmetics Color Drops Serum Blushes.

Silica dimethyl silylate is the hydrophobic silica derivative and functions as an anti-foaming agent, anti-caking agent, bulking agent, binder, skin-conditioning agent, emollient, and viscosity increasing agent in cosmetics.

Silica is abundant and makes up of 26% of the Earth’s crust by weight.  It is found primarily in rocks, sand, and clay. Sounds a lot like Mica, huh?  In fact, mica is a form of silica! Along with clay (as mentioned before), quartz, emerald, talc, glass, etc.

In its purest form – silica is unable to exist in its natural state due to its propensity to react with the atmosphere (i.e. Oxygen).  Therefore silica – is actually silicon dioxide.  And generally speaking, there are two forms of silica – crystalline and amorphous.  At present, the amorphous form processed synthetically; is traditionally used in cosmetics as an absorbent, anti-caking agent, and suspending agent.

Did you know that it is the third most abundant trace element in the human body?  And silicon has been suggested that to improve skin strength and elasticity and pivotal in collagen synthesis?  And it is suggested that a higher silicon content in the hair results in a lower rate of hair loss and increased brightness.  Well, now you do!

In fact, in a study of women aged 40 to 65 with typical signs of photoaging — intake of a bioavailable form of silicon supplements saw a significant improvement after 20 weeks in skin surface characteristics and in its mechanical properties.  The study also observed a significant improvement in the fragility of nails and hair compared to the placebo group after a nine-month period.

Not much specific information on silica dimethyl silylate as it relates to benefits for the skin was found.  However, one interesting thing to note is that the CIR panel reported the following:

• Irritation was observed in two (2) patients in a single patch test with nineteen (19) total patients using 24% silica dimethyl silylate (mixed with isododecane) in petrolatum.  Now, the EM Cosmetics Color Drops Serum Blushes do not contain petrolatum, but it does include isododecane!  And since isododecane is the first ingredient listed, we must assume it is also at a high concentration.

Overall, the CIR panel deemed silica dimethyl silylate as safe, with both non-irritating and non-sensitizing at up to 30% concentration via human repeat insult patch test (HRIPT).

Bottom line:  Silica (or silicon) is safe as it is clearly an abundant element within nature and your body; with studies pointing to its positive effects on skin elasticity and improvement in photo-aged skin.  Silica dimethyl silylate is the hydrophobic silica derivative and functions as an anti-foaming agent, anti-caking agent, skin-conditioning agent, emollient, and viscosity increasing agent in cosmetics. There is a study that observed irritation when silica dimethyl silylate was mixed with isododecane which EM Cosmetics Color Drops Serum Blushes contains.

Trimethylsiloxysilicate is the hydrophobic silica derivative and functions as an anti-foaming agent, anti-caking agent, bulking agent, binder, skin-conditioning agent, emollient, and viscosity increasing agent in cosmetics.

As we said earlier, as silica dimethyl silylate, trimethylsiloxysilicate is a silica derivative.  But not much scientific information could be found regarding trimethylsiloxysilicate specifically.  Overall, there were no reported uses of trimethylsiloxysilicate to the FDA based on a CIR safety assessment released in 2013.  However, the CIR panel assessed that concentration use may be from 2 to 20% in leave-on products.

One interesting thing to note is that the CIR panel reported the following:

• Irritation was observed in two (2) patients in a single patch test out of nineteen (19) total patients using 50% trifluoropropyldimethyl/trimethylsiloxysilicate in a mixture of 45% cyclomethicone/5% hydrogenated polyisobutene.  Now, the EM Cosmetics Color Drops Serum Blushes do not contain trifluoropropyl methyl or cyclomethicone, but it certainly includes hydrogenated polyisobutene!

Overall, the CIR panel deemed trimethylsiloxysilicate as safe, with both non-irritating and non-sensitizing at up to 20% concentration via human repeat insult patch test (HRIPT).

Bottom line:  Silica (or silicon) is safe as it is clearly an abundant element within nature and your body; with studies pointing to its positive effects on skin elasticity and improvement in photo-aged skin.  Trimethylsiloxysilicate is the hydrophobic silica derivative and functions as an anti-foaming agent, anti-caking agent, skin-conditioning agent, emollient, and viscosity increasing agent in cosmetics. There is a study that observed irritation when trimethylsiloxysilicate was mixed with hydrogenated polyisobutene which EM Cosmetics Color Drops Serum Blushes contains.

Cetearyl ethylhexanoate is an alkyl ethylhexanoate (branched alkyl esters) that functions as a skin-conditioning, emollient, and hair-conditioning agent in cosmetics.

I reviewed the CIR and found minimal information with respect to this compound.  The closest I could find was the following trademarked compounds and its benefits as listed on the vendor’s websites:

• Schercemol™ 1688 ester (Manufactured by Lubrizol)
  • Emollient ester that spreads evenly on the skin where it imparts a velvety softness. It is known for leaving water-resistant yet breathable films. Because it is an odorless, colorless liquid derived from synthetic sources, it has great product uniformity.
  • Leaves water-resistant yet breathable films.
  • Odorless, colorless liquid.
  • Spreads evenly on the skin where it imparts a velvety softness.
• TEGOSOFT® liquid (Manufactured by Evonik)
  • Medium-viscosity cosmetic ester, similar to natural preen gland fat. Good spreading properties.

Overall, the CIR panel deemed cetearyl ethylhexanoate as safe.

Bottom line:   Not much can be said about cetearyl ethylhexanoate other than that it functions as an emollient, skin-conditioning/hair-conditioning agent, and that it provides optimal spreadability in cosmetics.

Ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer functions as a viscosity-increasing agent, opacifying agent, and film former in cosmetics

What’s interesting to note is EM Cosmetics Color Drops Serum Blushes also includes butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer in its ingredient list.  And the CIR panel assessed the use of the two combined ingredients of “ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer and butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer” as thickeners.

Not much scientific data was found that was specific to ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer as a standalone compound.   However, the closest I could find was the CIR panel’s assessment of two trademarked compounds which includes both ingredients per the following:

1. Trademarked name unknown:  A mixture containing ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer (4 to 15%) and butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer (0.1 to 2%) was evaluated in a human repeated insult patch test (HRIPT) involving 117 subjects.  The mixture did not induce allergic contact dermatitis in any of the subjects. It was noted that this conclusion was confirmed by a board-certified dermatologist.
2. Trademarked name unknown:  Both are used in ingredient mixtures in which the total polymer content is usually in the range of 5 to 20 weight % and the main component may be either of the following: mineral oil, isohexadecane, isododecane, hydrogenated polyisobutene, isopropyl palmitate, isononyl isononanoate, and residual monomer (below limit of detection [100 ppb])

Bottom line:   Not much can be said about ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer other than that it functions as a viscosity increasing agent, opacifying agent, film former, and thickener in cosmetics.

Phenoxyethanol is a preservative used to inhibit the growth of microorganisms in cosmetic products.  Generally, a product formulated with high water content (is in this situation) is prone to the growth of microorganisms unless certain precautions or ingredients are added to thwart such problems.

However, overuse of preservatives within a formulation has also been shown to lead to increased incidences of contact allergy.  Therefore, adding these ingredients poses the question of whether it is truly worth it.

The CIR panel has deemed phenoxyethanol as safe.  Current concentration use in cosmetics based on the CIR assessment has indicated that phenoxyethanol may be used at a range of ≤ 0.0002% to 1%.

Bottom line:   A preservative used to thwart the growth of microorganisms in high water content formulated products.  No real benefit to claims with potential for skin irritations.

Tocopherol acetate (also tocopheryl acetate) is the acetate ester form of tocopherol – which is the most prevalent form of vitamin E in plant seeds and products derived from corn, sesame seed, sunflower, olive oils, and a plethora of nuts.

Baffled Side Note:  It’s always interesting when companies list both tocopheryl acetate AND tocopherol (as this is) in their ingredients list but not together, as one is the synthetically derived acetate derivative of the other.  It seems a bit redundant since the overall molecule itself is the same.

In addition, studies have also determined that free vitamin E (tocopherol) is much more sensitive to oxidative degradation, compared to the acetate derivative (tocopheryl acetate); which may be attributed to the larger molecule (acetate component).

Most of the tocopherols are reported to function in cosmetics as antioxidants or skin conditioning agents. In fact, a 2003 study, evaluated whether the combination of topical vitamin C and E was better for UV protection to the skin than an equivalent concentration of each – alone.  The study concluded that each (in their own right) were significant antioxidants in protection from skin damage. However, the combination of both C and E provided superior synergy against the likes of skin cancer and photoaging.  Further detailed information regarding tocopherol as a major lipid-soluble chain-breaking antioxidant of membranes and an important cellular protectant against oxidative damage was provided in a 2014 safety assessment.

It is also interesting to note that in 1999, a study found that topical vitamin E applied to scars provided no benefit (in 90% of the cases) to the cosmetic outcome of scars after skin surgery.   And it even noticed that 33% of the patients treated, developed contact dermatitis to the vitamin E.

Overall, tocopherol is the predominant form of vitamin E in human and animal tissues, and it has a high bioavailability.  The safety assessment recognized that tocopherol has some absorption in the UV range.  However, it was noted that according to animal and clinical testing, tocopheryl acetate was not photo-allergenic or phototoxic.

Bottom line:  Strong antioxidant capacity.  Best if formulated with vitamin C ingredients but may pose as a potential for dermatitis.

Capric Triglyceride or Caprylic/Capric Triglyceride (CCT) is an emollient ester that was deemed as a safe ingredient to use in products per a safety assessment conducted in 1980 per the CIR panel.

Well, it’s been quite some time since 1980. And I am willing to bet that there have been cases reported and studies performed relative to this particular ingredient. In fact, most recently in 2017, the same CIR safety panel decided to re-evaluate and assess caprylic/capric triglyceride based on current clinical and animal data. And although the verdict isn’t necessarily in, I would be willing to bet the final assessment will deem this product safe as the origins of this ingredient come from benign oils.

Back to CCT (or sometimes known as caprylic acid) is a specific fraction of coconut/palm oil fatty acids – resulting in a stable form of esters. But how is this ingredient relevant to me?!

First, caprylic acid has been found and studied to have superior medical potential in anti-cancer, anti-Alzheimer’s, anti-Autism, and providing general circulatory improvement. But it also has potential beneficial applications as an anti-aging ingredient. Yessss!

Bottom line: Emollient ingredient derived from coconut and palm oil. Known for its skin-conditioning and anti-aging capabilities.

Spotted: According to the EM Cosmetics’s ingredient list, EM Cosmetics misspelled Sesamium Indicum (Sesame) Seed Extract.  I have provided the correct spelling in the header.

Sesamum indicum (sesame) is a plant-derived fatty acid seed oil/extract which often functions as a skin-conditioning, emollient and moisturizing agent in cosmetics.  This ingredient has been identified as safe per CIR assessment.

Sesame seeds contain significant amounts of lignans (such as sesamin, sesamolin, and sesaminol).  Lignans have been shown to possess varying clinical and physiotherapeutic importance, such as its antioxidative activity.  In addition, topical use of sesame seed oil has been known to reduce stress levels, relieve inflammation/reduce pain, and healing effects from burns.

Topical sesame oil has also been found in skin protection from UV radiation.  In fact, sesame oil has been shown to resist (about 30%) UV rays in comparison to coconut, peanut, olive, and cottonseed oils block at about 20%.  A 2010 study calculated the spectrophotometric sun protection factor (SPF) value of sesame oil, at 1.771 as compared to other herbal oils:

• Olive oil:  7.549
• Coconut oil:  7.119
• Castor oil:  5.687
• Almond oil:  4.659
• Tea tree oil:  1.702
• Rose oil:  0.248

And according to the CIR panel, the fatty acid composition of sesamum indicum seed oil contains the following %:

• Oleic acid (35-50%), an omega-9 fatty acid.
• Linoleic acid (35-50%), an omega-6 fatty acid.
• Palmitic acid (7.-12%)
• Stearic acid (3.5-6%)

The CIR panel reported the following studies with respect to irritation and sensitivity:

• 8% Sesamum indicum (sesame) seed oil in a skin salve applied to lips, hands/nails, elbows, knees, feet/heels for 4 weeks on 51 participants.
  • Results:  
    • Did not elicit significant dermal irritation or dryness.
    • 2 participants had level 1 (mild, very slight) erythema on the lips
    • 5 participants had level 1 erythema on the elbows, lips, or knees
    • 15 participants reported subjective irritation.
• 25% Sesamum indicum (sesame) seed oil in a face serum:
  • Results:  No primary irritation.  Not an irritant or a sensitizer.

In fact, a 2008 clinical case study reported sesamum indicum (sesame) seed oil in an ointment used on 20 participants produced positive reactions (allergic contact dermatitis).

And finally, a clinical test reported in the CIR panel assessment found the following:

• Undiluted sesamum indicum (sesame) seed oil as non-irritating.
• Formulations containing 8% to 14.3% sesamum indicum (sesame) seed oil were non-irritating.
• Formulations containing 10% to 11% sesamum indicum (sesame) seed oil were not irritating with or without UV light.
• Patients with contact allergy to sesamum indicum (sesame) seed oil were patch tested, and most had positive reactions to sesamol, sesamin, and sesamolin.

Bottom line: Sesamum indicum (sesame) is a plant-derived fatty acid seed oil/extract which often functions as a skin-conditioning, emollient and moisturizing agent in cosmetics.  Sesame seed oil has been shown to reduce stress levels, relieve inflammation, reduce pain, and heal burning effects. Its components have been known to have anti-oxidative, anti-inflammatory, and photoprotective properties.

Plukenetia volubilis (or sacha inchi) is a plant-derived fatty acid seed oil which often functions as a skin-conditioning, emollient and moisturizing agent in cosmetics.  Sacha inchi (or sacha peanut) is naturally found in regions of the tropical rainforest climate of northern South America (such as Venezuela, Peru, Bolivia, and Brazil).  This ingredient has been identified as safe per CIR assessment.

According to the CIR panel, has a fatty acid composition containing the following %:

• Oleic acid (10.46%), an omega-9 fatty acid.
• Linoleic acid (37.64%), an omega-6 fatty acid.
• Linolenic acid (48.96%)
• Palmitic acid (4.72%)
• Stearic acid (3.33%)

In comparison, a 2018 study evaluated the composition of commercially available sacha inchi seed oil as follows:

• Oleic acid (8.28%), an omega-9 fatty acid.
• Linoleic acid (36.8-37.7%), an omega-6 fatty acid.
• Linolenic acid (42.4-48.6%)
• Palmitic acid (3.65-4.8%)
• Stearic acid (2.54-3.4%)

Pretty similar in profile.

With its elevated composition of polyunsaturated fatty acids, tocopherols (vitamin E), and phenolic compounds; sacha inchi oil is considered as an antioxidant source.

But how does this relate to the skin?

Well in a 2019 study, sacha inchi oil was clinically evaluated in 13 volunteers for its moisturizing effect on the skin using a regression study design.  Sacha inchi oil as compared to olive oil (control) was applied on the left or right lower leg of subjects for 14 days followed by application discontinuation for 2 days.  Transepidermal water loss (TEWL), skin moisture content, and dryness appearance were observed. The study observed improvement in moisture content and skin dryness appearance at the sacha inchi oil-applied site which was comparable with that observed at the olive oil-applied site.

In fact, it’s important to note that there is a patent (US20070264221A1) to the pharmaceutical preparation containing an extract of plukenetia volubilis.  According to the patent, the extract contains proteins which when applied to the skin can provide an anti-inflammatory effect, a skin tightening effect, and an anti-aging effect.

Another thing to note is that the CIR panel assessed that the concentration use of sacha inchi oil may be from 0.05 to 0.6% in leave-on products.

Bottom line: Plukenetia volubilis (or sacha inchi) is a plant-derived fatty acid seed oil which often functions as a skin-conditioning, emollient and moisturizing agent in cosmetics.  Sacha inchi oil has been shown to affect TEWL, dryness, anti-inflammatory/anti-aging/tightening effect, and antioxidant properties.

Ah, hyaluronic acid (HA) or hyaluronan is the key molecule involved in skin moisture.  In this case, sodium hyaluronate which is the sodium salt of hyaluronan.  Hyaluronic acid is naturally found in our biological makeup. More specifically, skin HA accounts for most of 50% of total body HA. That’s a lot! And so, it is a key molecule in the fight against aging. And in the last five years (or longer) has exploded in its use and marketing capacity.

Hyaluronic acid is a glycosaminoglycan (GAG) with a unique capacity to bind and retain water molecules.  Indeed, various studies suggest HA homeostasis exhibits a distinct profile in intrinsic (internal) skin aging, which is totally different from that in extrinsic (external) skin aging.

It’s important to note that a lot of cosmetic and beauty brands often state that hyaluronic acid is able to hold 1000 times its weight in water.  And while I scanned all avenues of scientific publications for this very information, I found nothing that credibly links this exact number to a particular study or research-based calculation.

In fact, what I did find in my scientific hunt, was that researchers have determined that approximately one (1) gram of hyaluronic acid can hold up to six (6) liters of water. 

Does size matter with hyaluronic acid?

HA exists as a high molecular weight (HMW) molecule (or HMW HA) with a large molecular volume and low molecular weight (LMW) molecule (or LMW HA) with a low molecular volume.

The average molecular weight of the HMW HA molecule is 1000–8000 kilodaltons (kDa).  As the molecule increases in polysaccharide chain length, so does the volume and its overall weight. So when we look at the low end of the size range, LMW HA is fragmented (or broken down) hyaluronic acid and is often identified as sodium hyaluronate (or the sodium salt of hyaluronic acid).  Of course, there are variations in names and descriptors from suppliers/vendors based on hyaluronic acid size.  So keep that in mind.

Either way, if a product is formulated with hyaluronic acid, and you are looking for a power-packed hydrating ingredient – it’s generally a good thing that this guy is on the label.  There are a myriad of studies that tout its skin-improving benefits:

• Topical application of HA has been seen in reducing wrinkles.
• A 2014 study, using nano (really, really, really small) hyaluronic acid demonstrated a significant benefit in decreasing the depth of wrinkles (up to 40%), and skin hydration (up to 96%) and skin firmness and elasticity were significantly enhanced (up to 55%) at the end of eight weeks.

Sold! You don’t have to tell me twice that this is an amazing ingredient to add to my skincare arsenal. There is definitely a positive synergy that occurs when incorporating HA. But, as with any ingredient, concentration levels and actual % amount to the overall formulation is always critical.

Hyaluronic acid has been deemed safe by the CIR panel at concentrations up to 2% as a skin conditioning agent in cosmetics. 

Bottom line: Skin conditioning and humectant ingredient with studies demonstrating an increase in skin hydration, wrinkle reduction, and overall skin firmness.

Dimethyl Isosorbide functions as a pharmaceutical vehicle and drug permeation enhancer.  Apparently, dimethyl isosorbide combined with water makes for a very good solvent or cosolvent (such as propylene glycol or polyethylene glycol).  None of which are in the EM Cosmetics Color Drops Serum Blushes.

In a 2008 study, hydroquinone, salicylic acid and octadecenedioic acid with different lipophilicities were used to investigate the effect of dimethyl isosorbide as a solubility modifier relative to dermal and transdermal delivery.  Unfortunately, the study concluded that 10% of dimethyl isosorbide was unable to increase skin accumulation of transdermal delivery of hydroquinone, salicylic acid, and octadecenedioic acid.

Bottom line:   Dimethyl Isosorbide functions as a drug permeation enhancer and combined with water makes for a very good solvent or cosolvent.

Much like ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer, butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer functions as viscosity increasing agent, opacifying agent, and film former in cosmetics.

As noted earlier, EM Cosmetics Color Drops Serum Blushes include both butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer AND ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer in its ingredient list.  And the CIR panel assessed the use of these two combined ingredients of “ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer and butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer” as thickeners.

Refer to ethylene/propylene/styrene copolymer for more details.

Bottom line:   Not much can be said about butylene/ethylene/styrene copolymer other than that it functions as a viscosity increasing agent, opacifying agent, film former, and thickener in cosmetics.

Tropolone is a preservative like phenoxyethanol and is known to be produced by bacteria, fungi, and plants.   Extensive scientific information specific to tropolone alone is limited.  What we do know is tropolones and natural products containing tropolonoid often display diverse bioactivities (such as antimicrobial,  antiviral, and antitumor activities). More specifically, tropolone is bactericidal for a wide range of bacterial species.

Natural tropolone derivatives (such as β-thujaplicin or hinokitiol) and its uses are limited.  However, some studies have shown that hinokitiol is known to be an iron-chelating compound, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antifungal, antioxidant (patent), neuroprotector, antimicrobial in hair tonics/cosmetics, inhibits ultraviolet B-induced cell death, and a hair growth promoter.

Currently, there are only a few vendor-specific products which are in combination with other ingredients per the following:

• SymOcide ® PT:  Phenoxyethanol (and) Tropolone.
• • • Manufactured by Symrise.
    • Acts as an anti-oxidant and anti-microbial active. It is a true broad spectrum preservative which helps eliminate other preservatives like formaldehyde-donors, parabens or isothiazolinones. 
    • Provides complete kill (>3 log reduction) of microbes, including yeast and mould – in 2-7 days. Used in various cosmetics and personal care applications.
• SymDiol ® 68T:  1,2-Hexanediol (and) Caprylyl Glycol (and) Tropolone.
• • • Manufactured by Symrise.
    • Acts as a moisturizing, anti-oxidant and broad spectrum anti-microbial active. It is stable at wide range of pH and temperatures. It is highly pure and it is free of oxiranes and peroxides.
    • Helps to reduce or eliminate preservatives like parabens, formaldehyde-donors or phenoxyethanol. Because of its high anti-oxidant activity, stability tests need to be performed with formulations/packaging.  Used in skin care and various cosmetics formulations.

Overall, tropolone is a preservative as we stated earlier.  And preservatives are used to inhibit the growth of microorganisms in cosmetic products.  And as in our previous discussions with the overuse of preservatives within a formulation, the result can often lead to increased incidences of contact allergy.  So depending on what camp you follow, adding these ingredients poses the question of whether it is truly worth it.

Bottom line: A preservative used to thwart the growth of microorganisms in high water content formulated products.  Natural tropolone derivatives have been known to be an iron-chelating compound, anti-inflammatory, antibacterial, antifungal, antioxidant (patent), neuroprotector, antimicrobial in hair tonics/cosmetics, inhibits ultraviolet B-induced cell death, and a hair growth promoter.

Squalane is the hydrogenated/saturated derivative of squalene. Squalene is an organic compound often derived from amaranth seed, fish oils, wheat germ, and most importantly – olives. In fact, human sebum also contains 13% squalene as one of its major constituents – offering protection to skin’s lipids as natural sun blockers – at high levels. How interesting!

Various studies evaluated both squalane and squalene for its anticancer, antioxidant, skin hydrating and emollient activities in both animal models and in vitro environments. And at specific concentrations used in moisturizers, squalane has been shown to have little effect in terms of irritation relative to skin permeability.

And of the two – squalane is the least susceptible to oxidation compared to its squalene derivative.

Bottom line: Strong antioxidant, skin hydrating, and emollient agent. Natural sun-blockers!

Lecithin is often the trade name for a mixture of phosphatides (or phospholipids) typically used in the food and cosmetic industry.  Lecithin is the gummy material contained in crude vegetable oils and removed by degumming.

Most commonly seen such as “soybean lecithin or soy lecithin”.  I’ve astutely become aware of this ingredient as it is generally a major component in most chocolates.  Soybeans are the most commercially sourced in order to create the lecithin by-product.

Now back to why this is used…

In a study published in 2010, a lecithin nanoemulsion (or fancy term for small-scale formulated mixture) which consisted of snake oil (yikes!), soybean lecithin, glycerol, and water were evaluated for its topical delivery effectiveness.  The study observed that the mixture improved skin hydration capacity significantly by 2.5 fold – inhibiting water evaporation from the skin.  The study further attributed the increase in skin hydration due to the nanoemulsion (mixture) barrier.

However, it is important to note that according to an assessment by the Cosmetic Ingredient Review panel, clinical irritation studies were performed and 65% of the cosmetic formulations containing 0.3-3% lecithin were generally non-irritating.

Bottom line:  Overall, lecithin often functions as skin and hair conditioning agents, emulsifiers and surfactants in cosmetics.  It is effective in providing superior skin hydration and helpful for improving permeation effects.

See review of Tocopheryl Acetate.

Ascorbyl palmitate (or ascorbyl-6-palmitate)  is one of many active forms and derivatives of ascorbic acid (vitamin C).  It is the most plentiful antioxidant in human skin and has been known to form a group of enzymatic and non-enzymatic antioxidants; coexisting to protect the skin from reactive oxygen species (ROS).

There are varying active forms and derivatives of ascorbic acid:

• Ascorbyl-6-palmitate (stable at pH 6)
• Magnesium ascorbyl phosphate (MAP): Stable at pH 6.  Most stable and easily absorbed into the skin
• Disodium isostearyl 2-0 L-ascorbyl phosphate
• Ascorbic acid sulphate
• Tetraisopalmitoyl ascorbic acid

Ok, this is what we know about vitamin C as a photoprotector:

• Water-soluble and functions in the aqueous compartments of the cell
• Protects the skin from oxidative stress by neutralizing the free radicals
• Its oxidized form is non-reactive
• Exposure to UV light reduces the availability of vitamin C in the skin.

In addition, it provides the following:

• Anti-aging effect:  Essential for collagen biosynthesis
• Replenisher of vitamin E
• Anti-pigmentary effect

We also know that in order for vitamin C to provide the most biologically significant change within the skin, it must be at 8% or higher, depending on the formulation.  In fact, that same 2001 study determined that a concentration above 20 percent does not increase its biological significance; with data pointing to the potential development of irritation.

Bottom line:  Ascorbyl palmitate is a potent antioxidant (vitamin C).

Citric acid is a naturally-occurring organic acid (alpha hydroxy acid to be exact) present in many foods.  Citric acid often functions as a chelating agent, pH adjuster, moisturizing agent, mild exfoliant, and fragrance ingredient in cosmetic formulations.  In a 1988 study, citric acid was found to increase skin renewal rate and treat sun-damaged skin.

But just to drive the point further home, regarding citric acid, varying studies found the following:

• A 1996 study evaluated the effects of AHAs on photo-aged human skin through clinical and microanalytic means.  Patients applied a lotion containing 25% glycolic, lactic, or citric acid (like what is included in this formulation? shocking!) to one forearm and a placebo lotion to the opposite forearm for an average of 6 months.  Treatment with AHAs caused an approximate 25% increase in skin thickness with improved quality of elastic fibers and increased density of collagen.
• A 1997 study examined the effect of 20% citric acid lotion, as compared with vehicle alone, on skin thickness and viable epidermal thickness.  Topical citric acid produces changes similar to those observed in response to glycolic acid, ammonium lactate, and retinoic acid including increases in epidermal thickness.

Bottom line:   Mild exfoliant, skin conditioning agent, chelating agent, and pH adjuster in cosmetic products.  Has been shown to increase elastic fibers, density of collagen, and skin thickness.

Titanium Dioxide is an inert, semiconducting material, which often exhibits photocatalytic activity in the presence of light.

English, please?

Basically, it’s considered to be a “natural” material which can scatter UV and visible radiation – yet what is also astonishing is that titanium dioxide can also be absorbed at certain levels.  Absorption can often lead to adverse effects such as oxidative stress, cell damage, inflammatory responses, and genotoxic effects. Yikes! However, the effects are strongly mediated and dependent on chemical and physical characteristics of titanium dioxide – such as size, purity, solubility, etc.  Since we as consumers are not privy to the exact chemical amount/concentration/size that is generally formulated in products we purchase – this is certainly concerning!

Generally speaking, percent amount or concentration of titanium dioxide is often revealed if formulated as the active ingredient; such as in sunscreens.  However, this is not the case with this product.  When used as a sun protecting agent, titanium dioxide is a physical sunscreen.  Physical sunscreen (sometimes noted as mineral or inorganic sunscreen) ingredients are physical blockers that reflect, scatter, and/or absorb UVR.  Physical sunscreens are made up of  metal and oxygen.   These include zinc oxide (1 zinc + 1 oxygen) and titanium dioxide (1 titanium + 2 oxygen). 

Bottom line:  Overall titanium dioxide has been used in sunscreens since 1952.  However, the FDA has only recently approved its use in sunscreens since 1999.

CI 77491 (Red iron oxide), CI 77492 (Yellow iron oxide), CI 77499 (Black iron oxide)

Iron oxides are naturally sourced but synthetically processed.  Therefore, most “natural” marketed beauty companies tend to utilize iron oxides in their formulations due to this “naturally” derived colorant source.  Depending on the type of iron oxide, some varieties may have varying trace metals. Due to heavy regulations imposed by the FDA, iron oxides are generally safe as the trace amounts of metal are likely low.

Bottom line:  Synthetically processed but naturally-sourced ingredient used as a colorant or pigment in cosmetics.  Although they do contain trace metals, due to heavy FDA regulations, the amount of allowable iron oxides in products is safe for consumers.

Just dyes/pigments – nothing much to discuss here.  It is approved per the Personal Care Products Council and the FDA in the US.

Just dyes/pigments – nothing much to discuss here.  It is approved per the Personal Care Products Council and the FDA in the US.

Just dyes/pigments – nothing much to discuss here.  It is approved per the Personal Care Products Council and the FDA in the US.

Just dyes/pigments – nothing much to discuss here.  It is approved per the Personal Care Products Council and the FDA in the US.

Just dyes/pigments – nothing much to discuss here.  It is approved per the Personal Care Products Council and the FDA in the US.

Just dyes/pigments – nothing much to discuss here.  It is approved per the Personal Care Products Council and the FDA in the US.

Just dyes/pigments – nothing much to discuss here.  It is approved per the Personal Care Products Council and the FDA in the US.