RMS Beauty Buriti Bronzer Review

What is mica?  Mica is one of the most abundant and common minerals available within the Earth’s crust – often classified as scrap, flake, or sheet mica.  Historically speaking, mica has been used in a host of various purposes through construction, pharmaceutical, and electrical industries.  And in that time, exposure to mica dust in mining, processes, and production have raised many questions to its adverse health effects due to inhalation.  It is often used typically as a colorant – like that in eye shadows, creams, etc.

One interesting thing to note is that RMS Beauty does not indicate whether the mica used is naturally sourced or synthetically processed.  If the concept of their business model reflects clean, natural beauty – the one would have to assume that mica is most certainly sourced organically.  Yet, if we rely on the list of labeled ingredients alone – you should not make that assumption.

A 2008 study determined that a mica substrate coated with iron oxide (which was further coated with colorless titanium dioxide) had a high chroma pearlescent pigment.  In fact, the study assessed that strategic layering of mica + iron oxide + colorless titanium oxide resulted in high chroma pearlescent pigment.

But what is this high chroma business, you ask?  To put it simply, the 2008 study observed that the chroma in aged skin decreased, while youthful skin maintained high chroma levels.  Yet the study did not reference or indicate how it determined chroma levels. And during my search – I was not able to find any linked studies, which correlate chroma levels relative to skin and aging.  So until I find additional information to link that correlation, I am taking it with a grain of salt.

However, since this product includes all three ingredients (mica, iron oxide AND titanium dioxide) – it would certainly explain its slightly pearlescent sheen when used.  Giving you that lit from within glow!

Bottom line:  Overall Mica is safe and has been historically used for various purposes.  The only concern with this particular form of mica is not necessarily knowing whether it was naturally sourced or synthetic.  However, with trifecta ingredients of mica+iron oxide+titanium dioxide, we know that RMS Beauty was certainly looking at maximizing some sort of pearlescent result; likely attributing to its luminous claims.

Certified Organic

Ah yes, coconut oil.  In the last 10 years, coconut oil has quickly become the “it” ingredient/component and go-to item for anyone in the know regarding the search for healthy alternatives.  Whether it’s for cooking and eating, moisturizing, aromatic properties; coconut oil is everywhere! In fact, I often use coconut milk as a dairy-free alternative to almond milk for coffees, smoothies, and cooking in general.  The list can literally go on with this natural ingredient. And from the looks of things – we are just getting started!

When it comes to cosmetics and the beauty industry, coconut oil is widely used for its moisturizing and emollient capabilities.  

But it doesn’t end there.  A review published in 2011, determined that coconut oil actually blocks out about 20% of UV rays compared to 25-30% with octyl methoxycinnamate (a typical chemical often used in sunscreens).  So why are we not harnessing this natural form of UV ray blocker?

Bottom line:   The degree of benefits of using coconut oil have only just begun as we continually unearth and chip away at all its wonderful potential uses.

Cera Alba (or Beeswax) is a structure that forms out of honeycomb.  Bees secrete this waxy material to build their lovely honeycomb hive in order to protect and store honey.  Therefore, it makes sense that beeswax itself is rich in hydrophobic protective properties – more specifically, hydrocarbons, free fatty acids, esters of fatty acids & alcohols, and various exogenous substances.  

In the past, the pharmaceutical industry has used beeswax as a key ingredient to prepare ointments and creams to soothe wounds.  This really hasn’t changed much even with present-day modernization. However, scientists and researchers have discovered the antimicrobial benefits and properties of beeswax.  Providing as a good alternative to harsher synthetic chemicals that thwart microbial growth in formulations and products.  Even determining that not only is beeswax helpful as an anti-inflammatory source but when coupled with olive oil has been proven to be effective for the treatment of atopic dermatitis and psoriasis.  

Bottom line:   Beeswax is a natural material with protective strength from its fatty acids and hydrophobic properties.  Creating an amazing moisturizing material. Plus it is a good natural alternative for its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties!

The name of this has always made me laugh.  In fact, a childhood friend of mine and I would always chuckle at the sound of this ingredient in products.  Was it “ho-ho-ba” or was it “joe-joe-ba”? However you pronounce it, it’s a functional vehicle for providing natural hydration, moisturizing, and firming capabilities synergistically with other key extracts and essential oils.  A number of reviews from scientific literature suggest that jojoba has anti-inflammatory effects and can be used on a variety of skin conditions including skin infections, skin aging, as well as wound healing.

In fact, a 2010 study assessed the hydration and viscoelastic effect of moisturizers containing different herbal ingredients (including jojoba oil) – after 3 weeks of topical application to the skin.  The study found that there was a significant increase in skin viscoelasticity (90-95%) and increase in water content of the stratum corneum (upper layer of the skin) by 60-70%.

Bottom line: Bottom line, this funny sounding oil enhances the penetration of whatever is synergistically formulated into the product.  It also provides hydration and promotion of skin elasticity!

Certified Organic

Cacao, one of the top raw material sources for a multibillion-dollar food industry.  Whether you are a chocoholic or not – cacao and its derivatives have long been used in various foods.  

The pulp of the fruit of the Theobroma cacao tree is the source of cocoa butter (or cupuacu butter)– a natural lipid rich in saturated fatty acids that are stored in the form of triacylglycerides.  In fact, scientists have determined with its abundant polyphenol and flavonol composition – cacao seed butter may influence healing properties –improving dermal blood flow, increasing photoprotection and ultimately contributing to the maintenance of skin health!

In fact, we are just scratching the surface of its neuroprotective benefits as well as its antioxidant properties – which all began from the Aztec and Mayan civilizations!  Nowadays, it is considered a modern plant-based alternative to lanolin, which can often be a sensitizer and allergen.

A water absorption study was performed with each of the following: cupuacu, shea butter, and lanolin (stirring until separation was observed). The study concluded that cupuacu could support 440% of its weight in water, which means that 1 kg of cupuacu butter could absorb 4.4 kg of water; therefore, allowing it to function much more effectively as a skin hydrator and plumper.

In 2003, the chemical composition of cupuacu butter was evaluated and found to be rich in:

• Phytosterols (or plant sterols) which combat free radicals; to benefit dry, damaged skin and
• Polyphenols to combat free radical damage
• Fatty acids to protect and moisturize the skin
  • 18.8 % Oleic acid (Omega-9)
  • 55.2% Palmitic acid
  • 3.1% Linoleic acid (Omega-6)
  • 18.0% Linolenic acid (Omega-3)

Bottom line:  Provides photo-protective, helps to improve dermal blood flow, maintain overall skin health, skin hydrator and plumper.

Non-GMO

Tocopherol is the most prevalent form of Vitamin E in plant seeds and products derived from corn, sesame seed, sunflower, olive oils, and a plethora of nuts.

Most of the tocopherols are reported to function in cosmetics as antioxidants or skin conditioning agents. In fact, a 2003 study, evaluated whether the combination of topical vitamin C and E was better for UV protection to the skin than an equivalent concentration of each – alone.  The study concluded that each (in their own right) were significant antioxidants in the protection from skin damage. However, the combination of both C and E provided superior synergy against the likes of skin cancer and photoaging.  Further detailed information regarding tocopherol as a major lipid-soluble chain-breaking antioxidant of membranes and an important cellular protectant against oxidative damage was provided in a 2014 safety assessment.

It is also interesting to note that in 1999, a study found that topical vitamin E applied on scars provided no benefit (in 90% of the cases) to the cosmetic outcome of scars after skin surgery.   And it even noticed that 33% of the patients treated, developed contact dermatitis to the vitamin E.

Overall, tocopherol is the predominant form of vitamin E in human and animal tissues, and it has a high bioavailability.  The safety assessment recognized that tocopherol has some absorption in the UV range.  However, it was noted that according to animal and clinical testing, tocopheryl acetate was not photoallergenic or phototoxic.

Bottom line:  Strong antioxidant capacity.  Best if formulated with Vitamin C ingredients but may be a potential for dermatitis.

Wild crafted

There seems to be a consistent theme within the body of this formulation – and that is some of the key ingredients lends its origins to tribal civilizations.  We already know that cacao seed butter traces its origins from Aztec and Mayan culture. But now we may couple this exotic tracing with buriti fruit oil origins to Amazonian civilization.  

I’ve always said to look to the future for technological advances but we should never forget the past as this paved the way for the future.  There is definitely something to be said when looking at tribal rituals and how they harness the richness of Mother Earth!

But back to buriti fruit oils.  This is the essential key to this wonderful product!  A 2012 study, evaluated the physiochemical, thermo-oxidative and nutritional characteristics of refined Buriti oil.  What they determined was that crude Buriti oil had high carotenoid (vitamin A) content along with antioxidant capacity (on the ORAC scale).  In addition, the study also observed high concentrations of fatty acids, tocopherols (Vitamin E) and carotenoids.  This coincides with a 2010 study, which evaluated topical applications in which carotenoids were observed to protect cells against photo-oxidative damage utilizing creams/lotions produced with buriti oil!

Bottom line:  Whether formulated utilizing crude or refined material, buriti oil provides photoprotection, its high in vitamin A, Vitamin E, and is high in antioxidant capacity.    

We are no stranger to rosemary and its use in cosmetic products.  We also are familiar with rosemary for its aromatic properties in foods.  But did you know – it has various analgesic and antibacterial properties? More specifically, rosemary oil has been effective against bacterium acne.  In 2007, a study found that there were significant changes in morphology and size of Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) in response to rosemary oil treatment.

This sounds promising, right?  Acne sufferers from all over the world rejoice!  

Well before you start singing its praises – a study in 2005 reported a rare case of allergic contact dermatitis due to a cleansing gel containing rosemary extract (0.1% distilled water).  So if you suffer from sensitive skin outbreaks – be forewarned!

Bottom line:  Used for its aroma and antibacterial properties for acne treatment.

To reiterate what I said earlier regarding mica, I believe titanium dioxide and iron oxides were layered in this formulation to take advantage of the 2008 technique of sandwiching mica+iron oxides+titanium dioxides to create a high chroma pearlescent pigment.

Titanium Dioxide is an inert, semiconducting material, which often exhibits photocatalytic activity in the presence of light.  

English, please?

Basically, it’s considered to be a “natural” material which can scatter UV and visible radiation – yet what is also astonishing is that titanium dioxide can also be absorbed at certain levels.  Absorption can often lead to adverse effects such as oxidative stress, cell damage, inflammatory responses, and genotoxic effects. Yikes! However, the effects are strongly mediated and dependent on chemical and physical characteristics of titanium dioxide – such as size, purity, solubility, etc.  Since we as consumers are not privy to exact chemical amount/concentration/size that is generally formulated in products we purchase – this is certainly concerning!

Bottom line:  Overall titanium dioxide has been used in sunscreens since 1952.  However, the FDA has only recently approved its use in sunscreens since 1999.  So at this point, RMS beauty are more than likely using these three ingredients of mica+iron oxide+titanium dioxide; with the intention of maximizing some sort of pearlescent results.  Therefore, attributing to its luminous claims.

CI 77491 (Red iron oxide), CI 77492 (Yellow iron oxide), CI 77499 (Black iron oxide)

Iron oxides are naturally sourced but synthetically processed.  Therefore, most “natural” marketed beauty companies tend to utilize iron oxides in their formulations due to this “naturally” derived colorant source.  Depending on the type of iron oxide, some varieties may have varying trace metals. Due to heavy regulations imposed by the FDA, iron oxides are generally safe as the trace amounts of metal are likely low.

Bottom line:  Synthetically processed but naturally-sourced ingredient used as a colorant or pigment in cosmetics.  Although they do contain trace metals, due to heavy FDA regulations, the amount of allowable iron oxides in products is safe for consumers.