RMS Beauty Living Luminizer Review

Certified Organic

Ricinus communis (castor) seed oil produced from castor beans function primarily as an emollient, skin-conditioning agent, emulsifier, surfactant, and cleansing agent in cosmetic products.  Castor oil is known to consist of up to 90% ricinoleic acid:

• 4% linoleic acid (Omega-6)
• 3% oleic acid (Omega-9)
• 1% stearic acid
• Less than 1% linolenic fatty acids (Omega-3).

This isn’t the new kid on the block.  In fact, castor oils origins stem from Eastern Africa, China, and India approximately 1,400 years ago as a raw material!  But it was not until 1988, that castor oil was evaluated for its transepidermal water loss (TEWL) potential.  The study concluded that castor oil (in addition to other occlusive agents: mineral oil and sesame seed oil) showed a decrease in TEWL rate.  

Bottom line: Castor oil is an occlusive agent that shows a reduction in TEWL.

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In the last 10 years, coconut oil has quickly become the “it” ingredient/component and go-to item for anyone in the know regarding the search for healthy alternatives.  Whether it’s for cooking and eating, moisturizing, aromatic properties; coconut oil is everywhere! In fact, I often use coconut milk as a dairy-free alternative to almond milk for coffees, smoothies, and cooking in general.  The list can literally go on with this natural ingredient. And from the looks of things – we are just getting started!

When it comes to cosmetics and the beauty industry, coconut oil is widely used for its moisturizing and emollient capabilities.  

But it doesn’t end there.  A review published in 2011, determined that coconut oil actually blocks out about 20% of UV rays compared to 25-30% with octyl methoxycinnamate (a typical chemical often used in sunscreens).  So why are we not harnessing this natural form of UV ray blocker?

Bottom line:   The degree of benefits of using coconut oil have only just begun as we continually unearth and chip away at all its wonderful potential uses.

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Beeswax is a structure that forms out of honeycomb.  Bees secrete this waxy material to build their lovely honeycomb hive in order to protect and store honey.  Therefore, it makes sense that beeswax itself is rich in hydrophobic protective properties – more specifically, hydrocarbons, free fatty acids, esters of fatty acids & alcohols, and various exogenous substances.  

In the past, the pharmaceutical industry has used beeswax as a key ingredient to prepare ointments and creams to soothe wounds.  This really hasn’t changed much even with present-day modernization. However, scientists and researchers have discovered the antimicrobial benefits and properties of beeswax.  Providing as a good alternative to harsher synthetic chemicals that thwart microbial growth in formulations and products.  Even determining that not only is beeswax helpful as an anti-inflammatory source but when coupled with olive oil has been proven to be effective for the treatment of atopic dermatitis and psoriasis.  

Bottom line:   Beeswax is a natural material with protective strength from its fatty acids and hydrophobic properties.  Creating an amazing moisturizing material. Plus it is a good natural alternative for its anti-inflammatory and antimicrobial properties!

What is mica?  Mica is one of the most abundant and common minerals available within the Earth’s crust – often classified as scrap, flake, or sheet mica.  Historically speaking, mica has been used in a host of various purposes through construction, pharmaceutical, and electrical industries. And in that time, exposure to mica dust in mining, processes, and production have raised many questions to its adverse health effects due to inhalation.  It is often used typically as a colorant – like that in eyeshadows, creams, etc.

One interesting thing to note is that RMS Beauty does not indicate whether the mica used is naturally sourced or synthetically processed.  If the concept of their business model reflects clean, natural beauty – then one would have to assume that mica is most certainly sourced organically.  Yet, if we rely on the list of labeled ingredients alone – you should not make that assumption.

A 2008 study determined that a mica substrate coated with iron oxide (which was further coated with colorless titanium dioxide) had a high chroma pearlescent pigment.  In fact, the study assessed that strategic layering of mica + iron oxide + colorless titanium oxide resulted in high chroma pearlescent pigment.

But what is this high chroma business, you ask?  To put it simply, the 2008 study observed that the chroma in aged skin decreased, while youthful skin maintained high chroma levels.  Yet the study did not reference or indicate how it determined chroma levels. And during my search – I was not able to find any linked studies, which correlate chroma levels relative to skin and aging.  So until I find additional information to link that correlation, I am taking it with a grain of salt.

However, since this product includes all three ingredients (mica, iron oxide AND titanium dioxide) – it would certainly explain its slightly pearlescent sheen when used.  Giving you that lit from within glow!

Bottom line:  Overall Mica is safe and has been historically used for various purposes.  The only concern with this particular form of mica is not necessarily knowing whether it was naturally sourced or synthetic.  However, with trifecta ingredients of mica+iron oxide+titanium dioxide, we know that RMS Beauty was certainly looking at maximizing some sort of pearlescent result; likely attributing to its brightening claims.

Titanium Dioxide is an inert, semiconducting material, which often exhibits photocatalytic activity in the presence of light.

Basically, it’s considered to be a “natural” material which can scatter UV and visible radiation – yet what is also astonishing is that titanium dioxide can also be absorbed at certain levels.  Absorption can often lead to adverse effects such as oxidative stress, cell damage, inflammatory responses, and genotoxic effects.

Yikes!

However, the effects are strongly mediated and dependent on the chemical and physical characteristics of titanium dioxide – such as size, purity, solubility, etc.  Since we as consumers are not privy to exact chemical amount/concentration/size that is generally formulated in products we purchase – this is certainly concerning!

Bottom line:  Overall titanium dioxide has been used in sunscreens since 1952.  However, the FDA has only recently approved its use in sunscreens since 1999.  RMS Beauty is likely using titanium dioxide with the intention of maximizing some sort of pearlescent results.  

Tocopherol is the most prevalent form of vitamin E in plant seeds and products derived from corn, sesame seed, sunflower, olive oils, and a plethora of nuts.

Most of the tocopherols are reported to function in cosmetics as antioxidants or skin conditioning agents.  In fact, a 2003 study, evaluated whether the combination of topical vitamin C and E was better for UV protection to the skin than an equivalent concentration of each – alone. The study concluded that each (in their own right) were significant antioxidants in the protection from skin damage. However, the combination of both C and E provided superior synergy against the likes of skin cancer and photo-aging. Further detailed information regarding tocopherol as a major lipid-soluble chain-breaking antioxidant of membranes and an important cellular protectant against oxidative damage was provided in a 2014 CIR safety assessment.

It is also interesting to note that in 1999, a study found that topical vitamin E applied on scars provided no benefit (in 90% of the cases) to the cosmetic outcome of scars after skin surgery.  And it even noticed that 33% of the patients treated, developed contact dermatitis to the vitamin E.

Overall, tocopherol is the predominant form of vitamin E in human and animal tissues, and it has a high bioavailability. The CIR safety assessment recognized that tocopherol has some absorption in the UV range. However, it was noted that according to animal and clinical testing, tocopheryl acetate was not photo-allergenic or phototoxic.

Bottom line: Strong antioxidant capacity. Best if formulated with Vitamin C ingredients but may be a potential for dermatitis.

Certified Organic

We are no stranger to rosemary and its use in cosmetic products for its antioxidant, anti-inflammatory, and antibacterial capabilities.  We also are familiar with rosemary for its aromatic properties in foods.  But did you know – it has various analgesic and antibacterial properties? More specifically, rosemary oil has been effective against bacterium acne.  In 2007, a study found that there were significant changes in morphology and size of Propionibacterium acnes (P. acnes) in response to rosemary oil treatment.

This sounds promising, right?  Acne sufferers from all over the world rejoice!  

Well before you start singing its praises – a study in 2005 reported a rare case of allergic contact dermatitis due to a cleansing gel containing rosemary extract (0.1% distilled water).  So if you suffer from sensitive skin outbreaks – be forewarned!

But in 2016, a study investigated the combination efficacy of rosemary and grapefruit in decreasing susceptibility to ultraviolet radiation, in addition to the improvement of skin wrinkledness and elasticity.  The study confirmed the photoprotective and anti-aging efficacy with combination use of rosemary and grapefruits.

Bottom line:  Used for its aroma and antibacterial properties for acne treatment.